danielhv

Well Known Member
Is there anything else besides MEK I can use to clean this stuff up? Its on my tools, hands, and clecos... MEK just seems to make it gooey, but still gets on EVERYTHING. Is there not some magic stuff that just makes this **** fall off whatever its on? :rolleyes:
 
I second that, acetone does the trick for me. Soak some into a wash cloth and scrub away.

I wouldn't exactly say it falls off, but it gets the job done with some elbow grease.
 
dan

I use lacquer thinner for everything, (acetone evaporates too quickly for me). Glove up and go for it! I used Lacquer thinner last night to clean up some proseal. Cleans up quickly and cleanly...no residue.
I use a "just-rite" fireprooof dispenser http://www.justritemfg.com/utility.tpl .Paper towel...not the "Brawny" type, but commercial center pull (Torx) 2 ply.
 
I used Xylol, found in the paint dept at your local hardware store. Cleans proseal great and doesn't stink as bad as other solvents.

Regards,
 
flash point

What's interesting is...check out the flash point of the various solvents.
I used Tolulene in the ship yards in the 70's (I was just a kid then;)) I have a firey story to tell about Toulene - 60 feet in the air on a scaffold up the side of an unpainted ship.
Much care is required for all of these solvents. Safety is a requirement we all need to keep in mind while buildiing in our shops/garages/basements!
Regards.
 
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I use lacquer thinner for everything, (acetone evaporates too quickly for me). Glove up and go for it! I used Lacquer thinner last night to clean up some proseal. Cleans up quickly and cleanly...no residue.
I use a "just-rite" fireprooof dispenser http://www.justritemfg.com/utility.tpl .Paper towel...not the "Brawny" type, but commercial center pull (Torx) 2 ply.

Ditto - well, all except the part about
I use a "just-rite" fireprooof dispenser http://www.justritemfg.com/utility.tpl
The paper towels I use are the least expensive I can find - after all, thery are trash.
 
And how 'bout getting it off your hands?

I wear chemical gloves for that - I don't like the way MEK treats my skin (or my liver). Don't use the cheapo thin latex exam gloves, get the real chemical gloves ($3 at Lowes), they are heavier and will last for about 4 or 5 dozen exposures before getting weak and soft.

I've only been using MEK for cleanup, I'll have to try the laquer thinner. Personally, I think MEK does a better job than acetone, but those are the only two I've tried so far. I just finished the ribs on my right auxiliary tank, still need to do the plumbing and baffles for both right wing tanks before pressure testing.
 
sika hand wipes

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...duct.do?pid=6786&familyName=Sika+Hand+Cleaner

I bought this stuff to clean sikaflex mess during the canopy work. These wipes worked great. After the sika, I've used them for other messy junk like rtv. I can't say I've used it for proseal just yet, but I bet it would work fine. Other cleaners might also work well, but most seem not so good for human contact.

I used MEK liberally on the tanks. <twitch> <twitch> Afterward getting some warning on how dangerous the stuff is, now I use that stuff only as last resort and with chemical safe gloves. <twitch>
 
I used MEK liberally on the tanks. <twitch> <twitch> Afterward getting some warning on how dangerous the stuff is, now I use that stuff only as last resort and with chemical safe gloves. <twitch>

A carbon cartridge respirator is a MUST when working with MEK! I would work with it barehanded long before I would go without my respirator...
 
I use automotive handcleaner and with a little scrubbing comes right off. I'm very impressed.
 
Another thing you can do to prevent the stuff from sticking to your hands is put on a bunch of hand lotion on before using the proseal. The proseal will hardly stick. Just make sure you clean your finger tips or you will get lotion on the aluminum and the proseal would bond very well.
 
Easier to prevent then to treat...

After a bout of black fingernails that couldn't be cleaned enough :(, I started using the really cheap latex gloves (in 10 pak at grocery store or 100 box at Harbor Freight) and change them often when working with the proseal. Use the ones w/o talc if you can find them.

I found that one hand seemed to get more proseal on it then the other so I'd change that glove between mixing and applying or whatever. After doing the second tank I was able to clean my hands with just soft soap, and no respirator needed.:D

Alan
RV-9A Wings
N984AW Reserved