Sump change - The practical details!
This job was easy though I approached it with a bit of trepidation - not a bad frame of mind to be in I suppose! Anyway, here, for those of you who are contemplating the same "upgrade", are the practical details.
Tools:
Wire cutter and needle nosed pliers - for removing safety wire;
1" open-ended wrench for oil fitting;
1/16" Allen key for grub screw on oil fitting;
1/2, 7/16 and 3/8 ring/open-ended spanners and sockets;
ratchet etc;
torque wrench;
thread locking stuff;
torque seal.
Parts:
New sump and gasket;
Selection of 1/4" and 5/16 UNC nuts, bolts plain and lock washers;
AN900-16, MS35769-21 copper gasket for oil pipe.
Suggested order of proceedings:
Tape up all orifices so you can't drop nuts, washers etc down them! I once saw the end of a screw driver embedded in the crown of a piston - after the customer had flown into our strip so hot aircraft could have a major overhaul.....
Remove your carburettor or fuel injection servo. The latter will be held in place with 4 x 5/16" nuts. I know nothing about carburettors!
The oil feed is on the rear of the Lycoming sump. Cut the lock wire and remove the grub screw from the oil feed pipe. Remove the oil feed fitting and little copper screen from the rear of the sump.
Undo all the nuts and bolts holding the sump in place. My sump had 4 x nuts on studs, 8 bolts into blind holes, and 8 nuts/bolts making 20 fastenings in all. The sump should come off easily. If it does't you probably missed one - look carefully before starting to pry at it!
My sump did not need studs (the Lycoming sump had 4, adjacent to the induction outlets). I would have replaced the 8 bolts in blind holes with studs but that wasn't the way it was put together - so I took that as my guide. I guess YMMV!
Clean up and inspect as required.
Bolt the new sump in place, with the new gasket. I did not tighten any bolts/nuts until I had them all in -there was a little bit of movement between sump and crank case. Once everything is in place gradually tighten the nuts, working front to back and side to side - don't just fully tighten and work round the case. Torque for 1/4" UNC bolts I have as 40-50 inch-pounds.
Refit the oil feed with a new copper gasket. I found it much easier to do this after I had taken the induction plenum off as the right rear induction pipe is a bit in the way. The little grub screw holds the feed pipe at an appropriate angle.
Refit the induction plenum - these bolts are 5/16 UNC, torque I have at 80-90 inch-pounds.
Refit the fuel injection servo. Here there are 5/16 UNC studs. Both Superior sumps I have fitted have had overly long studs fitted, that I have had to remove and shorten. I had to take the plenum to an engineering shop to get them removed, as none of my usual tricks worked (two nuts tightened together, a Snap-On stud remover, application of blow-lamp...). Also the servo was quite a loose fit on the studs so I made some little sleeves to provide better location.
Fit the new induction pipes - bolt to inlet at the cylinder end and clips/pipes at the plenum end.
In the UK, ask inspector nicely to come and check all, complete paperwork etc.
All done.
I hope that is helpful.
Chris