[N395V]

How much of a project would it be to convert an RV8s fixed rudder pedals to adjustable?

 

[briand]

I think you have to drill out the 4 rows of rivets that attach the new rails AND the old rails install 2 nutplates on the bottom, 2 support strips on the engine side of the firewall. I think thats about it. I don't think you would need to remove any of the belly skins. I emailed Vans for the price of the required parts because Rick here made me change my mind but they never replied. BTW, I am at that point in the build but I haven't installed my gnd. adj. pedals. I'm waiting to get the new parts which I want shipped with my finish kit (ships week of July 8), if I can get a quote.

 

[flyeyes]

How much of a project would it be to convert an RV8s fixed rudder pedals to adjustable?

If it's a quickbuild, it would be fairly trivial. The QB fuse comes with the nutplates already installed, so installation reguires building the rudder pedal ssembly on the bench, and then installing it using four AN3 bolts. Access is good if you take out the baggage floor.

I think you would have to drill out the rivets holding the "ground adjustable" setup, but I don't think that would be a big deal (although I haven't looked closely at one).

If the nutplates aren't there, it would be more work.

 

[briand]

I think the in-flight adj. pedals rivet to the same holes that attach those two angle ribs on the bottom so those rivets would need to be drilled too. BTW, the gnd. adj. rails have their own holes drilled in the floor. When I get home I will look over the dwgs. real close and see if I missed something. I'm assuming your 8 is already flying.

 

[N395V]

I'm assuming your 8 is already flying.

Yes it is.

I appreciate all the input.

 

[Rick6a]

.........I don't think you would need to remove any of the belly skins. I emailed Vans for the price of the required parts because Rick here made me change my mind but they never replied..... BTW, I am at that point in the build but I haven't installed my gnd. adj. pedals. I'm waiting to get the new parts which I want shipped with my finish kit (ships week of July 8), if I can get a quote.

There are two #3 nutplates on the floor and the aft end of the rudder pedal assembly bolts in them. See the last photo. The nutplates must be attached before the belly skin is installed. I have since completed the assembly of the cockpit adjustable pedals. It was just a few hours work and I'm quite pleased with the result but I did a very dumb thing in getting there. Since I did not know what was required to make the upgrade, I sent back the single hardware bag that came with the ground adjustable variety and instructed Van's to upgrade my order to the cockpit adjustable type. That exchange was correct in and of itself, but Van's sent me the entire rudder pedal package including all those expensive powder coated weldments. Now faced with a complete and totally duplicate set of rudder weldments, I proceeded to send one set back. In the process of packing...and with 3 hyper-active cats on the table dodging in and out of all the packing paper lying about, I got distracted and accidentally sent back BOTH crucial rudder slide assemblies...the original and the duplicate! Good Grief. I had Van's send me yet another rudder slide assembly and after several days of needless delay, proceeded to complete the assembly process. Water under the bridge. The photos show the forwardmost position, the most aftward position, and a detail photograph of the spring loaded locking device. Its active ingredient is nothing more than a clevis pin with the head cut off. I used a 2-1/4" length of 5/8" tubing for the handle rather than the 2" 7/16" diameter tubing called out on the DWG. The pedals can be moved a bit more than 1 inch per increment.

Bottom line: Partswise, the only difference between the cockpit and ground adjustable rudder pedals is small items contained within those brown hardware bags.

 

[briand]

Nice pics., thanks.

What the the price diff.?

The weldments I have do not have the "S-Tubes" for the cables. So I would need to exchange those send back my two angles and get the slide, blocks and hardware.

How come you have plastic and braided tubing. Is the braided an upgrade. I assume you must already have the finish kit. You are kicking ***.

 

[Rick6a]

Nice pics., thanks.

What the the price diff.?

The weldments I have do not have the "S-Tubes" for the cables. So I would need to exchange those send back my two angles and get the slide, blocks and hardware.

How come you have plastic and braided tubing. Is the braided an upgrade. I assume you must already have the finish kit. You are kicking ***.

The plastic and braided hoses are part of the brake system. I really cannot say what the price difference is....I've got so many parts coming and going through Van's for exchanges, upgrades, and outright returns that I have to use a running account.

The braided hose P/N F-8105 is a pleasant part of the standard finish kit for the 8 and 10. Around 20 inches long and complete with fittings attached, if they were just a bit shorter, they would be perfect for routing brake lines exiting the Grove gear to the Cleveland brakes. (Hint, hint.)

Along with the just finished brake system, I'm now completing all the fuel lines before attaching the forward side skins. It makes it WAY WAY easier to get in there with minimal obstructions and bodily contortions. At minimum, those builders who chose to install the forward side skins before routing the brake and fuel vent lines are just asking for a major PITA later. Just look at the photo.

Unfortunately, all the hoses and tubing come with the Finish kit....to my mind, for ease of assembly the parts should be included with the Fuselage kit.