6

67pileit

Member
What would be the pros and cons of a Catto 3 bladed prop on an RV6 and how does it compare to a metal prop in cost and performance? Thanks.
Chris
 
Catto prop

The 3 blades are tough to get cowls on and off. They perform very well.
 
Catto 3-bld vs. Sensenich metal

Pro: Catto is sexier, prettier, sexier, more ground clearance, sexier, lighter, sexier, quieter, sexier, smoother and sexier.

Con: Catto has considerably longer lead time. Cowling removal can be more difficult on "A" models.

Cost and performance are very close.
 
Catto's lead time

was no problem for me. He quoted four months and my prop was delivered right on time. He is a pleasure to deal with and is was thourough and patient in his answers to all my questions. Mel forgot to mention that this three bladed prop is really sexy. :)
 
Gee, Mel, tell us really what's on your mind.

I am waiting for Craig to send me my invoice for mine. I honestly hadn't been that excited till reading your post.
 
A big pro is it makes good looking and not expensive wall art. You just have to find right wall :D

Prop-1.jpg
 
Sexier and safer in my opinion

While I certainly believe that the prop is sexier especially as Craig will paint it to match your aircraft if any way you want, but the big reasons for me are the following.

1.) Very smooth and quiet for a high performing prop.
2.) As its a wood core with carbon fiber, it does not suffer from harmonic issues that sensenich props or metal props in general suffer from. I have heard of metal props being shaken appart and getting cracks that cause failures later as a result of overspeeding the props, often happening before you buy the plane (if you did not build it). The top RPM on my catto 3 blade is 3300 RPM. A sensenich is 2650 approx RPM... Which is someone more likely to inadvertantly hit?
3.) Catto has never had a prop failure from what I have been able to find out, and confirmed by Catto himself, and that was with the fiberglass prop. Now that he is using carbon fiber, I would expect the same or better results.
4.) The catto prop does pit in rain without the prop guard installed. If you install prop guard, use vortelator strip to get back the perforance lost by the guard. You only lose a little, but the vortelator tape gives it back to you at the hub. The good here is that Catto will refinish and repaint your prop for less than $200 which essentially gives you a new prop again.. Great deal in my view.
5.) Catto while busy and has some long lead times, is a good guy to work with and very accomodating in my experience.
 
FYI - Catto is coming out with a metal leading edge for his props that will allow you run WOT in the rain w/o the plastic leading edge guards.
 
hughfi said:
.....A sensenich is 2650 approx RPM... Which is someone more likely to inadvertantly hit?
Click to expand...

While I only have good things to say about Catto (having just ordered one for an RV9 project), I have to point out the part of the post above is not entirely true. Only some sensenich props on some engines have that restriction...others have no such restriction. The FP sensi is still happily flying on my old 360 powered RV6 after many years with no such RPM limitations.

Just a point to keep things factual. I do look forward to flying behind the 3 blade Catto on the RV9 though! :)

Cheers,
Stein
 
Possible con

I treat the catto prop as wood and re-torque it multiple times per year. I do not believe that such re torquing is required for a metal prop.
 
Customers First!

I can honestly say in all my years in aviation, I've never dealt with a more customer oriented business owner than Craig Catto. And, his props Rock!
 
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To further clarify...

SteinAir said:
Only some Sensenich props on some engines have that restriction...others have no such restriction. The FP Sensi is still happily flying on my old 360 powered RV6 after many years with no such RPM limitations.
Just a point to keep things factual. I do look forward to flying behind the 3 blade Catto on the RV9 though! :)
Cheers,
Stein
Click to expand...
The Sensenich 70CM series Sensenich for 150-160 hp engines is certificated and limited to 2650 rpm.
The 72FM prop for 180 hp is NOT certificated and has no rpm restriction.
 
I've had two Catto props (current RV6 and prior on a Velocity). Only issue can be lead times. Craig is an excellent person to deal with and the props are top of the line. You'll find this to be better than Sensenich in most respects, lighter, smoother, better climb performance. It may be a knot or two slower due to 3rd blade and less pitch. It recovers most of this speed via more rpm. It is not as bad as a wood prop on torque problems. The torque value is 45 ft lbs which is a lot closer to metal than wood. This is because it has sandwiched metal plates and a very high composite percentage. I've found on both that the first retorque will show some torque loss but after that it stays right on. Get the tape on the leading edges and this will pretty much eliminate any rain issue. I've flown both ways and didn't see any performance degradation.
 
The 70CM is limited to 2600 RPM with a 40 hour buffer. Meaning you get 40 hours over 2600 RPM before they predict failure.
 
Catto Prop Torque

My 66x76 three blade is also 45 ft lbs--indicated on the hub label.

Cheers,

db
 
LifeofReiley said:
I think only the 3/8" bolts are 35 lbs... and yes I would re-torque these.
Click to expand...

Yes, my prop was drilled for 3/8" bolts.

Typically I would re-torque them every three months, regardless of the flight hours. It is the weather (humidity) that is the driving force here, not hours flown.

Cut the safety wire, back the bolts off (or nuts, depending on your prop extension) one turn, and then re-torque and safety them.

Do not use your torque wrench to loosen the nuts, it is not designed as a breaker bar.
 
hughfi said:
4.) The catto prop does pit in rain without the prop guard installed. If you install prop guard, use vortelator strip to get back the perforance lost by the guard. You only lose a little, but the vortelator tape gives it back to you at the hub.
Click to expand...

Hugh,

Can you provide a picture of the vorteltor tape installed?
 
I've flown mine with and without Propguard tape and I noticed no difference in performance. Craig does not recommend The vortelator tape. On what are you basing your recommendation?
 
Yes... I received the same answer, nothing in place at this time to back up a performance difference at all with or without the leading edge protection tape or the other tape.
 
Prop Guard tape

I just installed the prop guard tape yesterday and did my first flight today.
The glossy tape is very apparent on the prop rotation.
Should I rough it up and apply a flat black paint?
If so, what is recommended?
 
Update

DanLandry said:
I just installed the prop guard tape yesterday and did my first flight today.
The glossy tape is very apparent on the prop rotation.
Should I rough it up and apply a flat black paint?
If so, what is recommended?
Click to expand...

Scuffed up tape today and painted with flat black.
Will test fly it when the stinkin' heavy gusty winds stop.
 
No need for tape

FYI - Call Craig, he is soon to release metal leading edge strips for his props.
 
UGH! Not really an option for me. Shipping from Canada is brutal... I guess it will be tape. Thanks.
 
One con is that I was told it would be 8 weeks till I got my prop. It's going on 15 and still nothing. I am sure it's a great prop, but I may have made a different decision or at least ordered it way ahead of time.

It's now holding up my project and yes I am a little frustrated. I shared that with Craig also.
 
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I have a Catto 3-bladed prop on my RV-9A and have not found it to be very difficult to get the cowl on and off. You make the slot in the bottom cowl a little longer (per Van's plans) and it has not been a problem.

I love the prop. Very smooth.

Neal Powell
RV-9A
Flying
 
Has anyone gotten the metal leading edge done?? How long did it take, what did it cost and how does it look??
 
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