SteelMike

SteelMike

Well Known Member
So, I really didn't want to have to post this question (and yes, I did search), but I'm about to put a deposit down on some wings, and I don't know the difference between capacitive fuel sending units vs. float fuel sending units. Can someone give me the short-answer as to what to order here?

Thanks...
 
There is no short answer on what to order... Depends on what you want or like best.

Capacititive = No moving parts, must concider special indicator or capacitive converters. Two aluminum plates inside tank insulated from the tank. Some have problems with fuel leaking out of the standard elcheapo BNC connector others do not. Must be recalibrated for different types of fuels. When properly calibrated can read more accurate full to empty. If something goes wrong in the tank as far as insulators or the lead wire, you would have to bust open the tank to work on it.

Resistive is the tried and true standard that has been around for many moons. As far as reliablility goes, how many spam cans have you rented where the fuel guage actually worked correctly? Cannot read the top portion of the tank. It is a slide wire resistor with a wire arm bent into the correct configuration and a float attached to the end of the arm. The entire sensor can be inserted and removed thru the mounting hole which makes future replacement possible without tearing up the tank.

Never trust your life to a fuel guage in either case!
 
Hello Mike

I bought the cap. type, but I don't think that I would bother to do it again.
The cap. is straight forward to install, but you will need to buy a converter to get the gauge/engine monitor to understand the measurement. IIRC I spent about $160.00 on the two converters.

The accuracy of the cap. sensor is better, but still not enough to judge amount left in the tank. I use my fuel flow and time to figure how much I have left. This is accurate to within 5%.

Kent
 
Okay, that's what I thought. I understand that you can still use the float-type if you get glass panel EFIS/EM. Plus, you're going to have a very accurate fuel flow reading in either case, which is probably more important anyway. I think I'll just KISS and get the float-type.
thanks,
m
 
Went the same way. Floats work with the GRT EIS/ EFIS, no problem. They are not the most accurate but give a good WAG. Fuel flow seems to be very accurate, but that's only my impression after about a dozen hours.

Jim
 
I went with the capacitative units in my -9.

The converters from Dynon are $50.

160 hours later and no leaks around the BNC connector and no other problems. The things just work, simple as that.

Oh, and check with Dynon, I think their converters work with non-Dynon products.
 
I went with both. The cap to my GRT and the float to a pair of Van's gages. Also have a watch. Shame on me if I .....

Ken
 
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