[rv12iS-builder]

Is it necessary to put some type of sealer (RTV, ProSeal, etc.) between the slider canopy side skirts and the canopy itself to prevent leaks? Any thoughts?

Thank you,

 

[vlittle]

Here's what I did:

After paint, I masked off the joint to be about 1/16-1/8" (or as required) wide, then applied polyurethane caulking.

Then I hard-tooled the joint with a popsicle stick to an even, smooth fillet. I removed as much excess caulking as possible over the tape edge.

Soon afterwards, I carefully removed the tape.

It takes about 24 hours to skin over, 3 days to use and 7 days to fully cure.

It cleans up very easily with mineral spirits.

Since it's not silicone, it won't contaminate the paint.

Vern Little

 

[RV8N]

I used proseal

I did the same thing with proseal and it turned out great. If you look from the inside you can see the thin bead of black proseal but from the outside there is a smooth transition from the skirt to the canopy, which I painted. I would use proseal again.

Karl

 

[lrfrey]

How large of a gap did you have between the top of the skirt and the canopy bubble? I've been trying to figure out a way of lessening the gap (mine ranges from none to 3/32 or so) but have not come up with a workable idea so far. I'm thinking it is caused by the slightly compound curve the skirt must follow.

Any suggestions? Thanks

Larry

 

[Bob Axsom]

No

Waste of time.

Bob Axsom