[JimWoo50]

Actually two questions. The pins on the frame are so tight that the canopy won't close all the way. I spent a lot of time filing the blocks and it did loosen them up a little but they are still tight making the canopy difficult to slide open and closed. Has anyone else had this? If so should I continue filing or should I get a bigger drill bit and enlarge the hole with it? How tight should the latch be? I am shooting for being able to unlatch with a small amount or resistance, If I use too much force the latch comes off of the brass bushing and goes its own way. Should I put another screw into the latch to further secure it to the bushing? Right now with the aforementioned canopy blocks so tight I am thinking of using the amount I file out of the plastic to set the amount of tension on the latch. I'm thinking to remove enough so the canopy slides almost all the way forward into the blocks and using the latch to close the last sixteenth or so. Thanks. Jim.

 

[pierre smith]

Canopy latch

Hi Jim,
We had the same problem on our 6A slider. Don't let the pins prevent the canopy from sliding forward. Use them to hold it down and inward and drill/enlarge a little at a time. If you screw them up, new ones are cheap. Our latch handle starts taking effort when it has around 15 degrees of rotation left. Also ask a Vans rep.
Pierre

 

[JimWoo50]

Thanks. I'm still filing away.

Did you have a problem with the latch seperating from the bushing when you exert force on it?

 

[pierre smith]

Latch

I'm not sure about a "bushing" you mention. Our canopy latch has the steel handle and an aluminum 'hook' that engages the little nub welded to the rollbar. One spring pulls the aluminum hook out of the way and that's all the parts besides the nut and bolt that attach the hook to the handle.
Pierre

 

[JordanGrant]

Shims

JimWoo50:
Remember that you can also add shims underneath the plastic blocks. Adding shims will loosen up the fit of the canopy and result in less force required to close it. I had to shim both sides of mine to get a proper fit.

Jordan Grant
RV-6 Slider
N198G

 

[Rosie]

Here's a 'hot' trick

I don't remember where I learned this one but I used it for 'drilling' my pins into the block to get an exact pin-fit with no binding;

With the canopy frame closed and no blocks in place, I fitted the canopy exactly where I wanted it. Then I opened the canopy and bolted in one block.

Carefully and slowly, I heated the pin then gently pushed the canopy down and allowed the 'hot' pin to contact the block (and melt it). Repeat process as needed until canopy closes all the way then repeat for second block.

I recall that it didn't take long to complete both sides, and the canopy pins perfectly Rosie

 

[newsum]

I don't remember where I learned this one but I used it for 'drilling' my pins into the block to get an exact pin-fit with no binding;

With the canopy frame closed and no blocks in place, I fitted the canopy exactly where I wanted it. Then I opened the canopy and bolted in one block.

Carefully and slowly, I heated the pin then gently pushed the canopy down and allowed the 'hot' pin to contact the block (and melt it). Repeat process as needed until canopy closes all the way then repeat for second block.

I recall that it didn't take long to complete both sides, and the canopy pins perfectly Rosie

Rosie, seems like I remember reading about this technique in the Matronic archive some time ago. What did you use to heat the pin. How much heat was required. Did it require getting the pin red hot?

JD

From Rosie: "I used one of those small (propane/MAP?) bottles used for plumbing copper pipe. I recall heating the tip until it just started to glow red..."