K

Kato's 8

Well Known Member
Happy Memorial Day Weekend!
I could not find the advice I was looking for, so forgive me for asking such a basic question. I need advice on making the very first canopy cuts. This is the removal of that huge flange all the way around. From what I understand, the canopy becomes very floppy? Vans instruct to not move and to smooth out the cuts first. How? Is it best to cut with canopy positioned upside down so you can do both? Or maybe off the edge of table? I was thinking of cutting about a foot or so on each side and then duct taping side to side as I go. Id like to get started on this today since it will be warm enough but Im a bit of a frady cat!
If I get that cut done successfuly, Ill need more help as Vans loses me in their plans. We put some one in fuse to move canopy around for best fit? How do you know when you have best fit? Is the goal there to mark the seperation line from the windscreen? Vans talks about lifting the frame up until it touces and then marking the rollers. I wonder about that as well since clamping the sides of canopy to frame would change the height.
Any advice on getting started on this would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Bill
 
I am not sure what flange you are talking about by the order of your questions.

If you mean the extra where it was clamped in the mold, then you want to cut to just below Van's recommended cut line which is scribed on the canopy. Mine was not "floppy" until I cut the windscreen.

You put the whole canopy on the plane and they want you to make small cuts until it fits the best. That is a better way to put it, as it does not (at least in my experience) fit really nice as a whole piece. Once it fits as best as it can, you make the big cut to separate the windscreen. Once that happens, if it is close, it will sit right down and fit well. You raise the rollers to make the bubble match the windscreen, you may not need to as mine fit with them down, no adjustment was needed.

I made foam half rounds to support the canopy for the cut, but I heard the same being made of cardboard or wood.

Rest assured, it is definitely more traumatic to contemplate than actually do.
 
Bill,

Start first by resting the canopy on a table and cutting off the flange. I used a dremel tool with a diamond cutter, which was like cutting through butter. The abrasive disc bogged down and damaged my dremel.

After the flange is off, it does become less rigid. My wife helped me turn the canopy upside down and as we lowered it the sides bulged out (seems we were inadvertently pushing towards each other. Scared heck outta me, so from then on I kept it bubble up.

I found that lifting from the rear and reaching underneath with my palm at the top, working my hand forward and finding the balance point allowed me to pick up the canopy from my work table and position on the frame by myself. Probably did it 30 times with no problems.

Once it's on the frame you'll see how progressive cuts will allow the bubble to drop down on the roll bar. Don't worry about the canopy frame contact until the front settles down close to the top skin. You may also need to progressively cut and sand the sides to allow the whole canopy to settle into position. Imagine that as the rear portion settles down on the frame it will lift the front as it does (roll bar is the fulcrum).

Just go slow.

And... before you cut anything, use a marker and make a nice center line front to rear. Find the center of the roll bar too and you'll know how to position it the same each time. A fore aft mark on the canopy and roll bar helps a lot too.

Also make sure that your canopy frame follows the shape of your roll bar... I had to tweak mine a bit. The frame is slightly larger than the roll bar and accommodates the canopy curvature.

If you plan to use sika, you'll need spacers, so put those in place. I used the appropriate ID vinyl tubing.


There's much more to it, but research the subject and find pics of builder logs to help envision everything. The whole process scared me to death, but I got through it successfully.

Don
 
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Thanks for the generous responses.
Ive started out carefuly removing a small amt and repostioning etc. seems to be going ok so far-no cracks yet anyway. Im considering the Sika adhesive method and didnt think about the 1/8" spacers required-thanks! I figure I can use spacers for the fitting and if i change my mind and rivit, I probably can remove more material if needed. Cant go the other way however. Some have used water hose for this. Has anyone tried a rubber bumper like they use in cabinets? I would think if that works, they could be left in placeand glued over.
IDK just a thought i might look in to.
Thanks again
Bill
 
Don's post is spot on, also make sure the tail of the canopy frame is the correct height from the surface. Sometimes it requires a little tweak and you should do that before fitting the canopy. Cutting the canopy seems like a big step but it's really just a bunch of small task, it will be finished and you will realize it was actually pretty simple. Go slow and be patient.

Pat
 
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