dinowal

Active Member
I am about to attempt the canopy fibreglass fairing layup. I have read the instructions several times but still have a query. Step 1 on page 34-13 says to lower the canopy after doing some masking & adding duct tape. Figure1 on that page shows the canopy down with the canopy strut in the compressed position. All of the work on pages 34-13,14 & 15 is done with the canopy closed, then step 1 on page 34-16, after drilling a hole to access the pivot bolts, the instruction is to remove the pivot bolts & remove the canopy. The struts are still compressed, & it is dangerous & difficult to remove bolts when they are in this state; I know this because I foolishly started to unscrew one of the strut bolts some time ago, with a result that caused me to buy a new strut & nurse a bruised thumb. Have I missed something, or should I remove the struts totally before starting the fibreglass work? Thanks for any help/advice, Cheers, DEAN...
 
I am about to attempt the canopy fibreglass fairing layup. I have read the instructions several times but still have a query. Step 1 on page 34-13 says to lower the canopy after doing some masking & adding duct tape. Figure1 on that page shows the canopy down with the canopy strut in the compressed position. All of the work on pages 34-13,14 & 15 is done with the canopy closed, then step 1 on page 34-16, after drilling a hole to access the pivot bolts, the instruction is to remove the pivot bolts & remove the canopy. The struts are still compressed, & it is dangerous & difficult to remove bolts when they are in this state; I know this because I foolishly started to unscrew one of the strut bolts some time ago, with a result that caused me to buy a new strut & nurse a bruised thumb. Have I missed something, or should I remove the struts totally before starting the fibreglass work? Thanks for any help/advice, Cheers, DEAN...

I just did mine and left all the hardware installed when I did the layups. There are some very good blogs and threads on here to help. But a good removal system includes mylar tape, good electrical tape, good removal wax, taping everything that you don't want to be part of the new assembly including the gaps, the struts, using foam and mylar tape to cover the gaps, and a very thin spatula/cake icing applicator thingy.

With a little of the above and planning and coaxing the struts will help the canopy tip up and then you can remove it to finish trimming, sanding, etc.

BTW, I found this whole thing very intimidating during the reading/planning stages, but it actually worked out pretty well.
 
You'll get a nice access hole if you cut a short piece of aluminum tubing with an ID just big enough to slip in a 7/16 socket. Put the socket on the bolt head and slip the tube over it. Then glass over it. When the fiberglass sets you can easily remove to glass from the center with a moto tool and end up with a nice round access hole that won't chip. I also put a mixture of resin and flock around the tube before glassing to ensure it is solid.