danielhv

danielhv

Well Known Member
If so what are the steps to get the layers to bond? Im thinking about adding an extra layer to the stiffeners just because I am paranoid and dont want to have to cut into the rear baffle in the future. :(
 
Mil-Spec says...

danielhv said:
If so what are the steps to get the layers to bond? Im thinking about adding an extra layer to the stiffeners just because I am paranoid and dont want to have to cut into the rear baffle in the future. :(
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...it's OK. It is required to be able to bond to itself.

Just make sure it is clean with your usual cleaning/degreasing procedures.
 
az_gila said:
...it's OK. It is required to be able to bond to itself.

Just make sure it is clean with your usual cleaning/degreasing procedures.
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Now when you say cleaning/degreasing procedures... thats just everywhere AROUND the existing proseal correct? Surely I wouldnt scotchbrite the existing proseal and then wipe it down with MEK correct? :confused: Sorry if thats a dumb question, Im new at this nasty stuff! :eek:
 
As long as you have never had fuel in it, and have never had a leak through the area you will be ok.
 
Proseal over Proseal

CraigC said:
As long as you have never had fuel in it, and have never had a leak through the area you will be ok.
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I disagree. I had a couple of weeping rivits in my QB fuel tanks and after draining all fuel and letting the tank airdry for about a week I cut an access panel in the rear and dopped proseal over the same area that had previously had proseal to fix the weeping rivets.

Instant success and after 50 hours and multiple full fuel loads no more weeping rivets.
 
I faced this issue, too

In making a repair to one of the tanks on my -4, I needed to apply new sealant over old. I called PPG Aerospace and posed the same question. They recommended using an adhesion promoter prior to putting new sealant over old. I can't recall which P/N they recommended, but both their website and their technical help is very good. (http://corporateportal.ppg.com/NA/Aerospace/Sealants/Sealants_Products/)

Good luck

Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
 
I just want to clarify because I plan on doing this tomorrow... I have done the stiffeners, cap flange, and drain flange... getting ready for phase 2... Can I throw some extra proseal on the stiffeners just to be safe? Or do I need to do something to the proseal that is already there to get it to bond? Also, when I wipe the skins down for the ribs... will it hurt anything if a little bit of the laquer thinner touches the proseal thats already on the stiffeners? Or do I have to be super carefull with where I clean....
 
good to go

Dan, My experience is only one set of [leak free] -10 tanks, but I did just what you're talking...that is added some extra after the initial install. The only difference might be that I used the thinner consistency sealant for the second application as it flows out more/smoother than the thicker stuff. Lacquer thinner won't hurt the proseal at all. -Jim P.S. I only got the thinner sealant because it was convenient when I purchased it...not a required item.
 
Yes...

danielhv said:
I just want to clarify because I plan on doing this tomorrow... I have done the stiffeners, cap flange, and drain flange... getting ready for phase 2... Can I throw some extra proseal on the stiffeners just to be safe? Or do I need to do something to the proseal that is already there to get it to bond? Also, when I wipe the skins down for the ribs... will it hurt anything if a little bit of the laquer thinner touches the proseal thats already on the stiffeners? Or do I have to be super carefull with where I clean....
Click to expand...

...my previous degreasing comment applied to the existing proseal as well as the adjacent metal.

If it's fully cured, acetone/MEK/naptha won't do any harm.
 
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