More to add
I started getting worried there: I had marked off my two F447 tubes but ouldn't find them! Now I have: they're 2x 5/16" plain aluminium tubes about 18" long.
Still not sure about that F-689 though. I suspect it is a shared part number with the -8A or perhaps some other model RV. I just cut that elevator pushrod tube to length the other day and there certainly isn't enough left over to make anything else with! I can't find F-869 on the drawings either (then again, I couldn't find F-447 too!).
Ten Tips for you:-
1. Do yourself a big favour and do the gear mod on the bench rather than think you can do ok without it and then be 'forced' to do it later anyway!
2. You'll need to dig out an 8-32 UNC tap and 1/4"-28 UNF tap for later in the project.
3. If you don't have a 90 degree drill or drill attachment, you're gonna need one!
4. You'll need a 7/16" drill bit for the gear legs. Make it a good one: those wear plates are a bitch and will work harden in an instant. Slow speed, lots of pressure, lots of coolant or cutting fluid.
5. Do the fuel and vent tubes before you put the side skins on. You may want/need to purchase fuel pump and filter if you want to do those now. The tubes that go through the gear tower need to be made in place: you can't get them in there once you've put the fittings on! (and no, I realised that before I put them on). When making the tubes you'll need a tube cutter, tube bender and flaring tool. Make sure you use oil on the falring tool cone *every* time.
6. When drilling the F-844 auxiliary longerons *make sure* you can see your lines. I didn't: figured they were trapped by the gear tower and can't move so can't be that far out, right? Wrong: I had to buy another one!
7. When clamping up the WD-808-PC seatback frame make certain to clamp it tightly to the sides of the fuse before drilling. Otherwise edge distance issues occur with that, the cockpit rails and the spacers. I bought a new frame, and cockpit rail and spacer for one side as a result! Ouch $$$$.
8. You'll need a 3/8" drill bit, I forget what for but I see it listed on my expenses!
9. Make sure to have a digital level and at least four plumb lines, preferably six. If you're like me and what to at least try to get it straight rather than rly on pre-punch holes and good luck, you'll need 'em! Especially for aligning the gear (I went with Grove, Vans might be different, but I doubt it).
10. You'll use LOTS on 3/32" and 1/8" cleco's. Especially the 3/32". I have literally hundreds of both, about three times as many as recommended!
EDIT: two more tips:-
11. Dwg#73 has some errors on it. See my kitlog at 09-June-2007 linked here...
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=jpreou&project=45&category=2153&log=35967&row=155
12. The instructions to final drill #12 in the F-812 bulkhead when fitting the vert stab through the bulkhead and tailwheel weldment. This would be correct for an AN3 bolt, but the plans (dwg#73, dated 11/15/05) show AN4 bolts, which would require a 1/4" hole. I checked with Vans; they should be drilled out to 1/4" for AN4 bolts; they are going to update the instructions.
Good luck, its fun, especially when you fit the emp the first time and start working on the controls
Cheers,
