danielhv

danielhv

Well Known Member
The plans have you take the W-408 Leading edge end rib which comes with no pre-punched holes, and slide it into place under the LE skin, then slide the Leading Edge Joint Plate in place, line all that up and match drill to the pre-punched holes in the skin. Well, everything looked ok when I did the match drilling, but its not now that I took it all apart to deburr/dimple. The holes that were drilled along the top side of the W-408 are not on center. They get pretty close to the web, and thus, I am having trouble dimpling. The bottom turned out just fine... So, any bright ideas on how to save this rib?

Thanks in advance!

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Edit: And yes I DID flute this rib... only a few on the bottom end. Sits on the table nice and flat. Im guessing it just shifted during all the wrestling with the joint plate...
 
Take a sharpie and draw a centerline to prevent that from happening again.

On that rib draw a centerline adjust the rib (aka bend a little) then reinstall and drill new holes. You should be able to get edge distance based on the pictures. My opinion only, free refund on price you paid me for it, those extra holes will be of no consequence.
 
Only Problem is...

asav8tor said:
Take a sharpie and draw a centerline to prevent that from happening again.

On that rib draw a centerline adjust the rib (aka bend a little) then reinstall and drill new holes. You should be able to get edge distance based on the pictures. My opinion only, free refund on price you paid me for it, those extra holes will be of no consequence.
Click to expand...

The splice plate will prevent you from seeing the center line. Now that the splice plate is already drilled a centerline will work, but it's gonna be a real pain to get the holes in the plate exactly lined up along with the centerline on the rib. I ended up using a line on the splice plate to line up in the holes and some careful measurements from the tank side of the splice plate to the rib to get it in position so the holes in the rib would be centered in the flange.

Don't have much advise for you Daniel. When my first one came out similar to yours, I ordered another rib. The next 2 came out perfect;)
 
get new rib

I did the same thing and Van's said I should replace the rib because the holes near the radius weaken it. So I did and the second one went fine. Because like others said, the second time you'll be able to see the centerline on the rib through the holes in the joint plate. I had to replace both ribs. I couldn't fit the holes on the flange without touching the first holes.
 
There is also limit how close to the bending/edge you can rivet (even it would be possible dimple and buck). Without looking the spec, those are close to the edge and therefore I would reject that rib. :(
 
The directions for the same part on the 9 from Vans says to mark the correct line on the strip (5/16" for the 9) where it lines up with the skin visually, and that the rib is in the correct position when the distance from the rib to the inboard edge of the strip is the same as the distance from the inboard edge of the skin to the edge of the strip.

This worked for me on both my sealing strips, though I did measure and adjust the fit repeatedly as I was matchdrilling, the rib has a tendency to walk while drilling if you're not careful.

As for the rib, I'd get a new one, YMMV.
 
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Haha...too funny. I'm not laughing at your plight, Daniel, but only because I have a rib that looks exactly like that in my scrap box. :)

Just order a new one. I promise you'll feel better about it.
 
Yes you can save that rib! Along with any other screwed up piece in a nice box somewhere in your garage.
 
For the Scrap Pile!

I made lots of scrap so far. I even drilled a rib like you did. :eek:
Put it in the scrap pile and call it a learning experience.

Experimental = educational.

Just remember everybody made some scrap along the way. (Me possibly more then most.)
 
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