V

Vlad

Well Known Member
Those who installed camlocs do you remember approximate distance from fuselage skins to camloc center? I am fitting the cowling and want to drill and cleco cowl to mounting strips. There is a lot of coverage on the methods how to do it in the archives but I am missing that particular distance. I do not have fasteners kit yet. I know they have a jig. Could somebody be please so kind to measure the distance recommended?
 
Hi Vlad....

....my camlok centers are 1/2" from the top forward skin of the fuselage, if that's the dimension you need....spaced 4" apart.

Regards,
 
Thanks Pierre

Yes Sir that's what I need for now. About 5/8" was my initial guess.
 
This will help!

I do not know the specific distance you are looking:confused: for but I can tell you this.:)

Once installed if the stud heads stick up, they are obviously too long, but by how much is the question?

For each .030 inches that the top of the head is above the surface of the outer grommet ring, the stud is too long by one dash #. IE if you installed a -6, and when its all installed and snug, but the head of your camloc sticks up approx .030, then you would re-install a -5 stud. That should have the head come as close to the surface of the grommet ring.

Do this the opposite when you have a stud that falls below the grommet ring.

The same it true if you are using the small diameter Camloc's

Here is a link to the regular diameter Camloc's, feel free to download for personal use.

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/camloc_4000_info.pdf

Note on the grommet page there is one error that will soon be corrected, it has the 4002-GS listed twice, it should just be 4002-G for the steel grommet.
 
Milspec suggests 5/8" edge distance on the cowl, and I think Skybolt is the same. However, you'll need to add 1/32 to 1/16" or so in order to leave room for a paint gap between cowl and skin if you are measuring from the fuselage skin. (In short, I used 11/16 rather than 5/8.) Hope this helps.
 
Thank you all gentlmen

for useful info.

Tom thanks for reference material. I didn't go that far yet. Cowl is what giving me hard times now. I want to drill #40 and cleco both halves so far. Will decide on fasteners later.

Any suggestions how to buid back about 3/16 of fiberglass on one side of top cowl :)
 
Yep, 5/8" from forward skin to hole centre. 1 1/4" from forward skin to forward edge of tab. Don't add anything more (but don't use anything less). If you add more, the tabs may protrude more than necessary and many builders find they can conflict in places with the honeycomb built up areas on the cowl. I've attached a photo. The "square" cut-out in the tabs is where my side hinges intersect. If you're using side hinges make SURE that the camlocks you instal will not conflict. That hinge will need to come back to within approx 3/16" of the forward skin to keep the cowls pulled together properly at the rear edge.

I'm presuming that the 3/16" error on the top cowl you mentioned is the nose area (behind the spinner) not being parallel with the rear of the spinner. Mine was out by the same amount. It looked just abysmal and I knew straight away I could not live with it.

This is what I did. I connected the top and bottom cowls together and installed them so that the most forward part of the cowls was just touching the back of the spinner plate. This meant that my gap between the spinner and cowl varied from zero to 3/16". Then I built up the area inside the cowls with epoxy fibreglass (using fibreglass...not just a microsphere mix). Finally I sanded back the nose of the cowls to get a perfect 3/16" gap the entire way around.

So in the end some areas received no sanding and some areas received up to 3/16" of sanding. Likewise I did not build up the area inside the cowl by a uniform 3/16" all the way around.....I added internal glass only in the thickness and in the place that it would need to be removed. The second photo shows the internal build-up (note that I wrapped the glass around to transmit forces onto the side walls). Final photo shows PRELIMINARY sanding (early days) to get even gap all around.

If on the other hand you've simply cut 3/16" too much from one side of your top cowl......I'd recommend you go and buy another top cowl.:p





 
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Start a new thread!

Vladyspassky said:
for useful info.

Tom thanks for reference material. I didn't go that far yet. Cowl is what giving me hard times now. I want to drill #40 and cleco both halves so far. Will decide on fasteners later.

Any suggestions how to build back about 3/16 of fiberglass on one side of top cowl :)
Click to expand...

I would start that as a separate thread there are some really good fiberglass guys on this forum.

I am guessing you would need remove some of your current cowling at an 8 or 10 to one angle an rebuild it with compatible material.

Be sure to not make your slanted surface (made to create a larger bonding area) not too smooth, you want you resin to grab onto as much of the original fibers as possible and still look good.

When I have had to make critical repairs I have even drilled lots of very small holes in the original structure and then threaded the FG clothe fibers through those hole before adding resin so I know we have a definite mechanical bond within the structure. It is a lot of extra work and for your application it may be overkill.

Please start a new thread and get advice from people with more experience than me on this subject.:eek:
 
Milspec Instructions

alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Milspec suggests 5/8" edge distance on the cowl, and I think Skybolt is the same. However, you'll need to add 1/32 to 1/16" or so in order to leave room for a paint gap between cowl and skin if you are measuring from the fuselage skin. (In short, I used 11/16 rather than 5/8.) Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Steve, do you still have the installation instructions for the Milspecs? I need a set that matches my RV6 rebuild that installed Milspecs in 2004 to re-license the airframe. Thanks, Justin Ice RV6
 
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