I used it for my carb heat and alternate air. They seem fine. I used eyeballs on the throttle and mixture since they passed through at an angle.
 
cable safe

I used these on all of my cable pass thrus, and they worked well. A bit of a pain to get the split type assembled over the throttle and mixture cables, but worth the effort. They provide a clean and secure clamp of the sheath, and are easy to seal to the bulkhead. All in all, I will use them again. Google up the Cable Safe 2 as well. I think that is the split one you will need for the throttle and mix.

Best to ya...Chris
 
carguy614 said:
I used these on all of my cable pass thrus, and they worked well. A bit of a pain to get the split type assembled over the throttle and mixture cables, but worth the effort. They provide a clean and secure clamp of the sheath, and are easy to seal to the bulkhead. All in all, I will use them again. Google up the Cable Safe 2 as well. I think that is the split one you will need for the throttle and mix.

Best to ya...Chris
Click to expand...
I mistakenly purchased the Cable Safe "1" rather than the Cable Safe 2 and, of course, I can't find anyway at all to get them over the pre-fabbed mixture and throttle cables. Can you describe, Chris, what you did have to do get the Cable Safe 2 over the throttle and mixture cables. Are they actually split lengthwise? It's hard to tell from the description at ACS...

Also, is the 1/4" size sufficient for the throttle and mixture cables? (Both seem to measure about ..26" in diameter.)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cablesafe2.php
 
Hi Steve,
I just went through this...I ordered two of the Cable Safe II's and one of the original "non-split" type (for carb heat). The II's are split lengthwise, but you still need to remove everything off of one end of your throttle cable to get the washer and 2 nuts to slide up. I went through a couple iterations of figuring out how to make it work before I figured it out (no instructions).

Basically, the washer and regular nut are on the same side of the firewall as the "clamping nut". Whatever side that is for you, you need to remove all the hardware off the cable. The other side you can just get the 2 halves to fit over the cable and slip it through the hole in the firewall.

The hard part is reaching both sides of the firewall at the same time to tighten the nut down.

One of my holes was drilled per the plans and has a "notch" drilled into the fuel pump mounting plate. Of course the cable-safe nut will not sit flush without some kind of plate to keep it parallel to the firewall...I need to make something for that...then find someone to help me tighten it down. :rolleyes:
 
Steve,

I also noted that I had to ream out the compression nut just slightly to get it over the ends of the standard throttle/mixture cables. I also made a couple of wedges with holes in them for either side of the firewall so that the cable could pass through at an angle rather than at 90 degrees to the firewall (that worked for my setup by making the cable straighter rather than having to do an S through the firewall).

greg
 
Thanks Sonny and Greg-

As you can probably tell from my other post, I'm desperate to decide on what to use and get it ordered tonight.

What size Cable Safe 2 did you use? The 1/4" or the 3/8"?

Sonny- I too had to work with the fuel pump doubler. Rather than remove and scallop the original doubler, all I did was butt another piece (about 1"x2") adjacent to the f.p. doubler where Van's calls for the hole to be drilled for the cable. I attached the little extra doubler piece with four rivets. My cable safe hole now straddles the original f.p. and new doubler. If it would help I can send a pic.

Thanks again for the help.
 
Hi Steve,
I know exactly what you're talking about with your plate...my only problem is that I have my engine hung and I'm not going to remove it. So getting in there with a drill & rivet gun is unlikely. I think I may just "proseal" a doubler plate to the other half of the hole and call it good...it's only a shim at that point, anyway.

The size of Cable-Safe that I bought is 3/8". I'm using a throttle quadrant that's attached below the center of the inst. panel. The cables for the quadrant look to be the same size as the ones I had for the vernier cables I sent back to Vans.
 
Steve,

My eyeball didn't arrive after all so I can't help there.

I used the 3/8 cable-safe II - I don't think the Cable-safe I will be big enough for throttle or mixture (Vans green) cables. Even the II needs a bit of trimming as I noted. Diameter of the hole is 5/8 inches.

You might consider cutting a small piece of Al as thick as the doubler, then rivet a relatively thin piece of Al onto that small piece with enough hanging off the edge to overlap the existing doubler. Then you could hold the assembled piece in place next to the doubler and drill the hole through the thin piece so that half of the hole is in the doubler and the other half is in your doubler-matching piece. The thin piece would then keep the doubler extension in place and once the cable-safe is tightened down, you would have a sandwich of firewall - doubler/doubler extension - thin Al backing plate which should be sufficient to handle the stress. This would eliminate the need to proseal. Hope this explanation was clear enough. If you would like me to sketch it, let me know and I will try to post something.

greg
 
Well, tried editing this twice but didn't take.

After reading your post again, I went out and drilled two holes and my cable safe II does not fit the 9/16 but fits the 5/8 just fine. Obviously you might want to wait to enlarge your hole since its easier to enlarge than to shrink....

greg
 
Yes, the hole for the CS1 may be 9/16" (as per ACS) and the CS2 may require a 5/8" hole. So far I've actually only drilled up to just under 9/16". I'll wait until I get the CS2's before drilling anything any larger.

I also agree, Sonny, that just prosealing the shim in there or following the method described by Greg above may work. Fortunately, I'm doing this before mounting the engine so it was easy to just pull the mount off real quick and rivet a little extra doubler in.

Thanks again.

Steve
 
Cable Safe II

alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Yes, the hole for the CS1 may be 9/16" (as per ACS) and the CS2 may require a 5/8" hole. So far I've actually only drilled up to just under 9/16". I'll wait until I get the CS2's before drilling anything any larger.

I also agree, Sonny, that just prosealing the shim in there or following the method described by Greg above may work. Fortunately, I'm doing this before mounting the engine so it was easy to just pull the mount off real quick and rivet a little extra doubler in.

Thanks again.

Steve
Click to expand...

Steve
Did the CS 2's work ok for Van's throttle and mixture cable and did you angle them with shim's or just bolt them up 90 degrees to the firewall. I understand you used the 3/8 CS 2's with a 5/8 firewall hole, is that correct?
Thanks
Oldgeezer
RV9A wiring
 
Oldgeezer said:
Steve
Did the CS 2's work ok for Van's throttle and mixture cable and did you angle them with shim's or just bolt them up 90 degrees to the firewall. I understand you used the 3/8 CS 2's with a 5/8 firewall hole, is that correct?
Thanks
Oldgeezer
RV9A wiring
Click to expand...
I just received the CS2's yesterday but ordered the 3/8" version and really think that is too big for the throttle and mixture cables Van's sells. I'm going to order the 1/4" and see if they are better. Consequently, I don't have the exact measurements for the holes available. The ACS catalog gives you the dimensions for the CS1's, but I think the CS2's are slightly different, depending on what their I.D. is. Also, I have not mounted the engine so I can't tell you whether or not the angle is OK. Sorry. I'll know more in a couple weeks.
 
Steve & Oldgeezer,

One of the differences that may require the Cable-safe 1/4 inch would be different cables. My cables are all the quadrant-type cables, which apparently are larger diameter than standard knob cables. I didn't realize there was a difference in diameter until pointed out by a friend who has both. I cut and put in two wedges (one either side of the firewall) to angle the CS somewhat. One is likely to be limited in how much angle you can get, but certainly 10-20 degrees is workable.

greg
 
CS II

Greg Arehart said:
Steve & Oldgeezer,

One of the differences that may require the Cable-safe 1/4 inch would be different cables. My cables are all the quadrant-type cables, which apparently are larger diameter than standard knob cables. I didn't realize there was a difference in diameter until pointed out by a friend who has both. I cut and put in two wedges (one either side of the firewall) to angle the CS somewhat. One is likely to be limited in how much angle you can get, but certainly 10-20 degrees is workable.

greg
Click to expand...

Greg and Steve
Thanks for the info. I haven't ordered the CS II for my 9A yet. I'm using Van's supplied throttle and mixture cables
Steve, when you get your new Cable Safe II's, could you post the correct size needed for van"s cables and the size firewall hole needed. Would be greatly appreciated.

Oldgeezer
9A wiring & firewall
 
Cable Safe II's won't work with my throttle/mixture cables

Oldgeezer said:
Greg and Steve
Thanks for the info. I haven't ordered the CS II for my 9A yet. I'm using Van's supplied throttle and mixture cables
Steve, when you get your new Cable Safe II's, could you post the correct size needed for van"s cables and the size firewall hole needed. Would be greatly appreciated.

Oldgeezer
9A wiring & firewall
Click to expand...
Oldgeezer-

I just received my 1/4" Cable Safe II's today and, unfortunately, I think they are too small for my cables from Van's. The O.D. of my cables are about .26" and will just not fit into the 1/4" Cable Safe II's. I even mangled one of the Cable Safe IIs' trying to get it on. Unfortunately, and on the other hand, the 3/8" Cable Safe II's are way too big. They won't tighten down around the cable to hold it in place. (It really seems like a 5/16" would be needed. However, as far as I know, there is no such thing.) Thus, I can't recommend the Cable Safe II's at all unless you know for sure the diameter of your cables will work.

That said, the 1/4" Cable Safe I's with the 3/16 bushing do work well for the carb heat cable.

I guess I'll have to figure something else out for my throttle and mixture and/or resign myself to using the Van's method of plastic bushings and RTV.:(
 
Steve,

If your cable is only 0.26 and the hole is 0.25, I suggest you might be able to clamp it together and ream it out a bit with a drill of an appropriate size, and still have plenty of material so safety is not a problem. Obviously a bit more complicated, but perhaps workable.

Alternatively, you might be able to get a piece of 3/8" tubing and drill the inside of it to 0.26, split it and install your cable (would probably have to add some HT RTV to make sure it is sealed). This is getting quite a bit further out on the limb, but....

greg
 
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Greg Arehart said:
Steve,

If your cable is only 0.26 and the hole is 0.25, I suggest you might be able to clamp it together and ream it out a bit with a drill of an appropriate size, and still have plenty of material so safety is not a problem. Obviously a bit more complicated, but perhaps workable.

Alternatively, you might be able to get a piece of 3/8" tubing and drill the inside of it to 0.26, split it and install your cable (would probably have to add some HT RTV to make sure it is sealed). This is getting quite a bit further out on the limb, but....

greg
Click to expand...
Actually the second idea is not a bad one, Greg. Thanks. I don't think the first idea will work very well b/c, if you clamp both halves together tightly, the hole is actually oval to begin with. It would also be pretty hard to keep everything aligned along the length while drilling.

Again, though, I don't really see any reason why your second suggestion won't work. I'll look into it. Thanks.

For those considering all this, if I remember correctly, some of the swivel eyeball types are designed to be reamed up to size. Thus, although they are more expensive and require larger size holes in the firewall, they may be the best option presuming you do some preplanning to make sure your 2-3 control cable holes won't interfere with each other.
 
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Cable Safe II's

alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Actually the second idea is not a bad one, Greg. Thanks. I don't think the first idea will work very well b/c, if you clamp both halves together tightly, the hole is actually oval to begin with. It would also be pretty hard to keep everything aligned along the length while drilling.

Again, though, I don't really see any reason why your second suggestion won't work. I'll look into it. Thanks.

For those considering all this, if I remember correctly, some of the swivel eyeball types are designed to be reamed up to size. Thus, although they are more expensive and require larger size holes in the firewall, they may be the best option presuming you do some preplanning to make sure your 2-3 control cable holes won't interfere with each other.
Click to expand...

Steve
Thanks for the update
Please let us know if the Greg's second idea is workable. Unfortunately I have already drilled my firewall per Van's plans so the larger pass thru's are a problem for me. I also do not like Van's option of using snap bushings as they do not lock the cable to the firewall for extra support.

Oldgeezer
RV9A
 
Oldgeezer said:
Steve
Thanks for the update
Please let us know if the Greg's second idea is workable. Unfortunately I have already drilled my firewall per Van's plans so the larger pass thru's are a problem for me. I also do not like Van's option of using snap bushings as they do not lock the cable to the firewall for extra support.

Oldgeezer
RV9A
Click to expand...
You could use an adel clamp on either the fwd or aft side of the firewall to lock the cable in place if you're concerned about movement.

I'm more concerned about Van's method mostly because it's a pretty big hole around the cable to be plugging with RTV or sealant. I'm not convinced that that's the safest way to do this.

One other thought I've had is that I could do the above (adel clamp + bushing +RTV) in combination with the stainless steel grommet shields that are often used with wiring that passes through the firewall.

Maybe overthinking all this but, again, I'm not a big fan of Van's method. My tech counselor/DAR wasn't either.
 
cable safe II for an 8

Thanks for posting your experiences with the cable safe fittings. I have an 8A and I think my cables are a bit larger than on some of the rest of the models that don't use a quadrant.

I ordered cable safe II with a 1/4 inch hole. It is clearly too small for my cables. Perhaps I need the larger size....or perhaps I need to go a different route entirely.

Can any of you 8 guys provide any insight as to how you secured the throttle and mixture cables at the firewall?

Thanks,

Tony
 
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