RudiGreyling

RudiGreyling

Well Known Member
Hi Guys,

I am at the point to cut the 2" hole in the firewall, and want to know if the Vans standard Cabin Heat system actually work? (More specifically for a RV7)

Do you use yours and does it work? or is it not worth the weight, money and labour to install?

For reference I have the standard triangular kit already, live in South Africa where the ground temperatures rarely go below 32-F or 0-C in the coldest winters.

Thank you in advance.
Kind Regards
Rudi
 
Considering the temperature lapse rate, it is likely that you will need a single muff system if you're going to be comfortable at altitude in the winter months. Here in the Norther U.S., it's necessary to have two muffs (run in series) to keep the cabins warm enough year round. The standard system is easy to install while you're building but would be much more work after you've hung the engine. My suggestion would be to use a stainless steel mechanism (offered thru this site) to increase cockpit safety in event of an engine fire. System does not effect engine performance, weighs very little, and is not a maintenance issue. Finally, I would also recommend you use a carbon monoxide indicator in the cabin. These are disposable "buttons" that are mounted within view of pilot with two sided tape. Cost is very low and considering you are scavenging heat from the exhaust system (normal in aircraft) it's cheap insurance. These would also help even if you don't install heat but perhaps have exhaust leaking into the cockpit.
Terry
RV9A N323TP
 
I've flown my -6 on 3 hour cross countries where the outside air temperature was 10F or lower. With an extra layer of clothing, we were comfortable.

I don't think the flights would have been doable without the heater.

By the way, these flights were during the day, so we did have the canopy greenhouse effect on our side.
 
Trouble is....

Rudy is sitting in the middle of summer and that's the trouble.... :D He can't imagine winter.

Seriously, at the 8000 foot altitudes these little rockets love, you'll need heat and Van's heater will get you by.

Regards,
 
Do it now

Rudi,

From experience, if there is a chance you will want one, do it now. I had the engine mounted before I got the SS heater control. It is ALMOST impossible to install without pulling the engine. An hours work took about a day.

Bob Kelly
 
Oh my yes, Rudi!

I cut (2) holes and used them both on a summer trip to Idaho for camping. 14,000' over the Rockies got COLD <g>.

During most flights in the early Spring and late Fall I use a combination of fresh air vent and heater vent (both out a little).

Best,
Doug
 
Rudi,

Aye, mate, install a heater. Even on warmer cold days, if clouds block the sun, you'll feel a significant IAT drop. You want all the heat you can accumulate.

I recommend, also, the stainless unit with the actuating arm on the cabin side. That's one less penetration of the firewall with a Bowden cable.

John Siebold
 
Oh yes. You will definitely need cabin heat. Some day when you're flying along in July or August, you'll be thanking us. :)
 
Thanks guys,

OK i'll put it in, but where is the best sources for the Stainless Steel one.

Ideally I'd like to get one that matches the holes exactly the Vans Aluminium one, that means I can drill it so-long while I order and wait for the long expensive shipping from the USA to SA.

Regards
Rudi
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the feedback...

Last night I decided I am going to modify my Aluminium one that I got from Vans in the Firewall Forward kit. I can't wait 2-3 weeks for the Stainless one to ship to South Africa and another $100 down the drain.

I am going to replace the Aluminium hinge with steel, and only change the trap door to Stainless Steel. It would be easy to undrill the existing hinge and door.

My reasoning goes like this. The cable is on the inside of the firewall so it is safe. The hinge is attached with a nutplate and bolt to the firewall, the trap door to the hinge. Making the hinge and trap door out of steel / stainless, in the unhappy event of a fire, close the door shut, then the hinge wont burn of and the door wont burn of, and the cable on the inside should be fine. The outside cover can and will smoke and melt, but that is OK. Luckily your big 2" hole is covered by a stainless trap door.

Just my 2c, I think it is the best low cost mod to my existing heat selector, for some defense. If you order your FW FWD kit, get the good one form the word go.

Regards
Rudi
 
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Heat? Yes!

Heat isn't just comfort. It's safety. If you fog up your bubble, or get clobbered wity sleet or snow, you'll want to elt off faster. You'll also concentrate better if you're warm.
 
Two Heaters..?????

DeltaRomeo said:
I cut (2) holes and used them both on a summer trip to Idaho for camping. 14,000' over the Rockies got COLD <g>.

During most flights in the early Spring and late Fall I use a combination of fresh air vent and heater vent (both out a little).

Best,
Doug
Click to expand...

Doug

In this post you elude to two hole.....does that mean two seperate heater boxes and if this is the case pictures and install details.

I do better when it is cool but the boss (wife) likes it warm. Therefore heated seats, stainless heater box. and whatever other praticle mod I can think of to keep my wife comfortable. :rolleyes:

Fran k @ SGU RV7A "NDY"
 
I,ve been told...

If you put coarse steel wool inside the heat muff and restrict the input duct (1 inch across instead of 2) that the slower air would heat up more and you would get more out of the system.
I haven't tried this yet.

Kent
 
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