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CitationXRV8

Active Member
Greetings Everyone,

I've spent countless hours on this site gathering very useful information while building the empennage section of my RV8. I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed reading and learning about everything from tools, primers (wow), techniques and hints. However, this is the first time I've posted and have a question.

I should receive the wing kit (SB) sometime in the next two weeks. I've searched the forum for tips, tricks, some things to watch out for while building the wings and have collected a lot of very useful information. I have also read, re-read and studied the plans section until my eyes blurred.

My question is, what things should I look out for while building the wings....plan errors, building sequence, some things you would do different next time, etc.. Some builders build the fuel tanks first. Is that a good idea? I don't know.

As I build, I will post my experiences good and bad. Hopefully I will be able to give back to this site as much as I've received.

Thanks in advance,
Joe
 
Joe,
Consider purchasing a set of Avery's "spring-back dimple dies". They do an outstanding job of leaving a smooth surface after the bucking is done. They do leave a faint circle around each rivet, though. Keep this in mind if you are planning to polish rather than paint as it will take a huge amount of work to get rid of the ring. You might also consider back-riveting as it also leaves a smooth surface.
Don
 
Wing build suggestions

Joe,

I would suggest building both wings side-by-side at the same time and following the order in Van's plans and directions. Although wings can be built without a wing jig, some kind of vertical jig to hold the wings vertically as suggested in the plans is a good idea and makes the work easier.

When you get to the point of fitting leading-edge skins on wing and tanks, some extra care can make leading edges nice and smooth. The noses of the wing ribs have "hard" spots that can make bumps on the leading edge skins. I clecoed the skins on carefully, then circled bumps on the leading edges of skins with a Sharpie, then went back to the ribs and filed, smoothed, and tweaked the rib flanges so that they do not make bumps on the leading edges. This takes a bit of time, but makes for a very smooth leading edge.

I enjoyed building my 8 wings and think that you will too.

Good luck,

Dan Miller
RV-8 N3TU 215 hours since July and loving it!
 
I BASICLLY FOLLOWED VANS BUILDING MANUAL CHECKED OFF EACH PART AS I COMPLETED THE ONLY THING IS I WOULD PURCHASE A SET OF TANK DIMPLE DIES FROM CLEVELAND THEY MAKE THE DIMPLES A LITTLE DEEPER BECAUSE THE PROSEAL TENDS TO MAKE THE RIVETS PROUD A LITTLE. ALSO GET A LONG OFFSET BACK RIVET SET
 
CitationXRV8 said:
..............what things should I look out for while building the wings....plan errors, building sequence, some things you would do different next time, etc.. Some builders build the fuel tanks first. Is that a good idea? I don't know.....
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Joe,

My "wing jig" was nothing more than a pair of vertically mounted 4"X4" posts temporarily C-clamped to the overhead joists in my basement. Angle iron was bolted to the posts to provide support for the main spar. I built the wings one at a time. Matched hole technology makes it possible to frame up the wings on a table or even the floor and I loaded them into the "jig" as required.

framing05307qv1.jpg


You can be fairly flexible in how you approach the wing build sequence. Generally, I completed the wings spars first (lots of nutplates to install), then on to the flaps, ailerons, and finally the fuel tanks before I got around to framing up the wings.

The only "gotcha" I experienced was in drilling out the "Z" brackets for the fuel tanks. The factory instructions can be greatly improved in that regard. A stickler for accuracy, I scrapped most of them and then drilled the replacement "Z" brackets my way. I then found out that others experienced the same frustration and I believe Dan Checkoway discovered a similar and vastly improved technique for drilling out the brackets from another 8 builder and has shared that information with the RV community through his well known website. Check it out before you drill those "Z" brackets.

Working virtually alone, I needed my wife's help with riveting 44 upper skin holes per wing. The wings were essentially completed in 9 weeks including the fiberglass....thanks to a wingtip kit from Cleaveland.....testament to matched hole construction techniques.

You will have a great deal of fun building the RV. Keep us informed of your progress! Don't hesitate to contact Van's support for answers to vexing technical problems that will surely arise and as you already know, you are at the very best RV related website in cyberspace and is THE place to be....where people of all experience levels are not shy about sharing their views. :)

One more thing. It is SO worth it. The RV truly delivers on its promise. I still marvel at the handling and perrformance of my 6A and am well into building the -8 as an article of faith in Van's outstanding design philosophy.

tip0607gn7.jpg
 
Awhile back, someone posted an idea about using a block of wood behind the spar flange when countersinking. Very good idea. All other tips above are good too.
 
Flap / aileron brace

Take a good look at the flap brace, I think it is. If you follow the instructions to the letter you get into the situation where it is rivetted to the wing, and the skins are on. However, the flap brace itself needs to be drilled and countersunk and can be awkward to do if the skin is already on. I bought a burraway to solve the issue since with the flap brace on it is near impossible to deburr the back side of the skin attach holes. A local RV-7 builder had the same issue. Some builders have successfully dimpled the flap brace and hinge, but most advise that doing so will banana the hinge quite badly and require replacement.

Here's the kitlog posts that detail how I got myself out of this one...

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=jpreou&project=45&category=1382&log=23439&row=40


then drilling for the flap hinge requires careful attention too...

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=jpreou&project=45&category=1382&log=24341&row=35


finally, countersinking the brace...

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=jpreou&project=45&category=1382&log=24359&row=34


I did the same for the left flap...
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=jpreou&project=45&category=1382&log=25464&row=7


Hope that helps you avoid the same trap!
 
Many thanks to all the replies.

I just got a call a couple hours ago from FedEx. The wing kit will arrive this coming Tuesday!!

Don- I do have a set of spring back dies. I was concerned about the faint circles around the rivets when I assembled the tail skins. Thought I was doing something wrong. One thing I did was to leave the blue plastic on while dimpling. It seemed to help eliminate some circles without leaving the dimple too shallow.

Dan- Didn't know that about the wing ribs. Thanks for the heads up...I'll be careful.

RV8MW- I'll order the tank dies today....thanks.

Rick- I've been on Dan Checkoway's website. In fact, I have it bookmarked. I'll revisit it concerning the Z brackets....thanks.

Jeff- Great tip on the flap brace, and nice website. How do you find time to keep your KitLog up to date :) I'm so far behind on mine!

Thanks again for all the tips. I'll keep posting updates.
Joe
 
No-mar boots

briand said:
Whats the yellow on the clecos?
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They are the no-mar cleco boots that Avery sells. They are soft plastic and stop the cleco from marking the work. Actually, I'm not sure that they are necessary as such, but I have them anyway. They're good for when you re-cleco something after priming and maybe the primer isn't fully hard yet; I've found that the DP40 I'm using dries very quickly (30 mins or so), but isn't ready for work for quite some time while it sets up properly. The boots also shorten the reach of the cleco's ever so slightly and occasionally I remove the boot to get that little bit of extra grip length. Do they really help? Who knows! I don't think so, but no matter :)
 
Logging to Kitlog

CitationXRV8 said:
Jeff- Great tip on the flap brace, and nice website. How do you find time to keep your KitLog up to date :) I'm so far behind on mine!
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Joe, I'm glad I don't log the time it takes me to log the time! My kit log, along with taking photos and then editing or touching them can sometimes take me up to 45mins per work night, depending on what needs doing. I would say there is probably a good 250 hours invested in the kitlog alone. I also have colour laser printed hard copy of the kitlog in a binder (don't tell work!). One day I'll be able to look back on all this, show friends and family, etc, etc.

The kitlog only has three photos per entry and I have taken lots more, so I have to choose which ones the world gets to see! You'll notice that most photos also contain text; that way they can tell the story on their own; it all adds to the time though. Hopefully other builders can see how things go together and the pitfalls I have encountered and most often resolved. I will often cleco stuff together just for the photo and so I can see how things actually assembly before I work them.

Cheers
 
AntiGravity said:
finally, countersinking the brace...

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=jpreou&project=45&category=1382&log=24359&row=34
Click to expand...
Be very careful, Jeff. You mentioned on that log page:

"Oh, and we drilled a hole in the aileron hinge bracket to allow the pin through, as per the manual. I did too good a job, though, and the hole is exactly in line with the hinge pin, so there's nothing to stop it vibrating out. I guess I'll stick a couple of small #53 holes in there too, bend the pin ninety degrees and safety wire it to the hinge bracket. Won't go anywhere then..."

Safetying the hinge pin to your aileron bracket is VERY likely to limit the travel of your aileron. The powder-coated inboard aileron bracket will most likely hit the hinge pin. Be very careful about this.

I strongly recommend that builders use the "split in the middle" flap hinge pin method. Imho it's the safest approach. A hinge pin is not likely to move and jam up an aileron. True...even if it does "jam" up the aileron it's only limiting travel, not totally jamming it...but that's "too jammed" for me!!!
 
Right-O DC!

Thanks Dan. I'll take that advice willingly :) Jammed controls are not something I want to contemplate. I assume you did the whole split pin thing, so I'll check your website when the time comes to sort that out.

Cheers,
 
Thanks Jeff, I think those would be great for when you have a cleco in a spot that might get bumped (like holding the armrests), to prevent the tweeked cleco from denting the skin. Or when you have the wing in the jig with clecos holding the LE in place and your friend slams to car door into a cleco, tweeking it. :mad: Ok, maybe not slam but it seemed like it at the time and she was in no position to argue.

I read Dans split pin part and thats def. the way to go.
 
The FedEx truck pulled up in front of my house at 8:30 this morning. The wing kit has arrived! As luck would have it, I got called out on a 3 day trip. Oh well, gives me more time to read through more threads and prepare for the tasks at hand.

Thanks again for all the tips.

Joe
 
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