[cjensen]

I started installing the fuel tank ribs tonight, and I need some suggestions for bettering the shop heads. My dad was having a heck of a time staying on the rivet with the bucking bar since the sealant makes them awefully slick. Most of them turned out pretty good, but several had to be drilled. I wasn't concerned with the "perfectly" driven shop head, but I didn't really want to drill out five rivets on the first rib (which I did). I'm wondering if he's pushing too hard with the bar, but are there any other tips out there to bucking with sealant on the rivets?

BTW, he has been a GREAT bucking partner to this point, but the sealant is throwing him off a little...

 

[cjensen]

I'd also like some more opinions on the wet install vs. 100% clecoing while curing. Seems like it works both ways, but after doing one rib wet, I can tell I don't like doing it this way.

Seems like Rick Galati's method would work great, and is much less messy. I have that post printed out, but chose to wet install tonight. I think he mentioned that if you dab some sealant in the dimple with a Qtip or something just before the rivet goes in, the space under the head would be sealed in the same fashion as a regular wet install.

Thoughts??

 

[Stephen Lindberg]

I had trouble with this, too. The solution was to clean all of the sealant from the rivet and the bucking bar. Then the rivets will set just fine. I think the sealant acts a lubricant and promotes rivet tipping. I wouldn't get too concerned about less than perfect rivets in this spot. You might do more harm drilling them out. I would not recommend allowing the sealant to set with clecos in place and then later setting the rivets, if I understand your question correctly. I didn't do it that way, but I would be concerned about leaks. No need to do that that I can see. Steve

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Been there and done that with the difficulty bucking wet rivets. Have a lot of little pieces of paper towel soaked with MEK or tolulene at hand to wipe off the shop head and bucking bar as often as possible. If you have two people working together it can actually go very fast, even doing this. Also, be careful to make sure the rivets are all the way set. With all that proseal that squeezes out when bucking, sometimes it's hard to see the size of the shop head. I had to go back and rehit a fair number that I found (with the gauge) that were underset. Difficult, messy process, but in a couple weeks this will all be behind you. Good luck.

 

[Yukon]

Going Solo

I think doing it yourself works better on the tank. I only drilled out one rivet on my first tank, working alone.

John

 

[Joon]

I had trouble with this, too. The solution was to clean all of the sealant from the rivet and the bucking bar.

I too had trouble riveting with the sealants.. Now, I wipe the excess sealant off from the rivets and it worked great. The bucking bar doesn't slip as much and I have better control of it.

At the end of the session, I end up with big pile of dirty paper towels and lots and lots of dirty gloves..