N

N282RV

Well Known Member
Ok for those of you who used the plastic line for the reservor how in vans name did you get the little plastic dingus into the end of the tubing. Yes I have boiled it as the plans state but I cant get it to go. I have noticed that the line i have says .062 thick and the plans call out like .032 so did I get something that doesnt jive or what
boiling water as I type
hopefully someone is on who can point me right here in a few
 
Jeremy,

Presumably you mean the insert that keeps the plastic line from collapsing. Although it required some real pushing, mine did eventually go into the plastic line. The boiling water (or a heat gun/hairdryer) helps considerably by softening up the plastic line. If it really won't go, then perhaps you do have the wrong thickness of plastic line....

Sorry no quick fixes from here...

greg
 
Brake plastic line fittings

I warmed my lines, started the insert into the line then holding the line very near the end, pushed the insert in by pushing against the shop door frame (or some very solid surface).

Dick DeCramer
Northfield, MN
RV6 N500DD flying
RV8 Wings complete
 
What is the good stuff

LifeofReiley said:
I rolled my lines back up with the fittings and threw it all in the trash... got the good stuff. :)
Click to expand...

I am getting close to starting this stuff and wondered what others have used for brakes and lines. Is there an upgrade for the brakes, also I have read where folks use a reservoir that attaches to the master cylinder, 2 would be required. How does this impact pedal travel, I am building an -8A with in-flight adjustable pedals. Thanks for any help

Cheers.
 
RVG8tor said:
I am getting close to starting this stuff and wondered what others have used for brakes and lines. Is there an upgrade for the brakes, also I have read where folks use a reservoir that attaches to the master cylinder, 2 would be required. How does this impact pedal travel, I am building an -8A with in-flight adjustable pedals. Thanks for any help

Cheers.
Click to expand...

I have an -8 with in-flight adjustable pedals and used the reservoir that attaches to the master cylinders ( available form ACS ) . You will lose about 1 to 1-1/2 inch forward travel, but unless you have LONG legs you shouldn't ever need the extra extension. I used braided steel rubber hose for the lines down to the brake cylinders instead for the soft aluminum supplied with the kit .
 
RVG8tor said:
I am getting close to starting this stuff and wondered what others have used for brakes and lines.
Click to expand...
I been using the original plastic lines supplied with the kit from the firewall mounted reservoir through the master cylinders (4) to the firewall for over 15 years with no leaks or problems.
 
I remember when I did mine and they were a pain in the rump. Hot water, make sure you have the outer ring in place by installing in the fitting and marking where the ring goes, than insert the inner dealy, this is the hard part, you HAVE to push it against a hard surface and role it side to side as well until it is in there, you don't have to bottom it out, a finger nail gap left is ok. What you are doing with the inner piece is making sure that when you tighten the fittings, the lines don't compress and seal off fluid flow.

Now a question for those going with the bonaco lines, How do you know you have all the air out. When I filled mine with fluid I found air bubbles all through the lines, no matter how I bled them, I had to remove the line right where the air was and tip up the line to get it out. I guess there is a trade off.
 
It seems to me I had little brass pieces that slid into the tubing, not plastic. These slid in fairly easily with just a push up against the table top.

Roberta
 
Well I did eventually get the plastic thing in the lines BUT when I did that there is no way absolutely no way the brass coller was going to go down on top of both. I am thinking I have gotten either the wrong hose, it has been changed, or I just flat out dont know where the proper line is.
I decided to go ahead with this stuff as I figure it must work, and Im trying to stay in the, build it to the plans and fly the darn thing mode.
can anyone confirm what the wall thickness is of the plastic lines?
 
Talked to Vans

Ok so here is the deal. I received the 062 line but the plans call out 035. I received the plastic dingus for the 035 tubing NOT the 062. I was told that the 062 line is what they use to use for high pressure lines to the brakes. So the solution to my problem is a 30 cent brass dingus for the end of the line and 2 new 20 cent brass "donuts" to go over the plastic line(could have reused the originals but why not for 40 cents).
I was going to get the 035 line but I think the better more sturdy set up is with the 062 line. And it turned out to be cheaper to do it "mo betta"

Now for a question:

the plans call out for the -4 hard line to run down the gear leg (-8 model) and then loop around for the caliper. I will not put a hard line all the way to the caliper, at a minimum I will put a short flex line on the end at the caliper. My question is, if I use the short flex line are there any problems with the hard line up at the top of the gear. My thinking is that the gear move, although not alot especially up at the top near the mounting points. Does this movement translate into leaking lines after some time in service? Has anyone done it this way and what have you seen from a maint standpoint. The other option is to make a flex line that runs the complete length of the gear from the fuselage to the caliper. I know that this will work but do I HAVE to do that as it is probably heavier, more costly, replacement of the line would require takeing the gear leg fairings off. The stub line could be replaced easily at anytime.

Can you tell what part of the project im in.:D

edit: I just found in the -8 section this EXact line of questioning, man I love this site.
 
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