I bought 8 Rapco pads w/rivets from AeroParts & Supply, Dallas TX for $44 plus $5.20 USPS shipping. Email is [email protected], phone is 214-337-3328. Be sure and ask for USPS shipping, otherwise UPS shipping is $11.50. Dan
 
Just placed an order with them...just FYI, they don't carry these on the shelf any more, and they are drop shipped from Rapco. UPS Ground is the only method they ship with, so it's a bit higher on shipping, but still a better buy.
 
I have always found that ACS is within a dollar or two (plus or minus) of the best price I can find - and shipping always seems to be a lillte cheaper for some reason - faster as well. (And unfortunately, if I order from within Texas, there is that sales tax thing...)

Paul
 
Yeah, I checked ACS, and they are $6.50/pad (plus rivets) or $41.75 for a 4 pack kit plus shipping. Van's has 4 pack kit for $32...AP&S was best at $44 for 8 with rivets.
 
cjensen said:
Yeah, I checked ACS, and they are $6.50/pad (plus rivets) or $41.75 for a 4 pack kit plus shipping. Van's has 4 pack kit for $32...AP&S was best at $44 for 8 with rivets.
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The last time I ordered a couple sets of 4 + rivets from Acft Spruce it was under $25 a set, 24.50 I think.
 
brake rotors

On that same subject. We are going to do our tires and brakes this weekend on the new 7a. With no aircraft brake experience of my own, what is the story with the rotors? How long do they last? Anything else to check other than the bearings?

Thanks
Bill
 
cjensen said:
Better than Van's price...AP&S still seems to be in the lead with the Rapco sets though. ;)
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The kicker is that I can have it here the next mroning if I get the order in before 2 pm EST AND I only pay ground shipping.
 
Check your Parker manual

BillFear said:
On that same subject. We are going to do our tires and brakes this weekend on the new 7a. With no aircraft brake experience of my own, what is the story with the rotors? How long do they last? Anything else to check other than the bearings?

Thanks
Bill
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You might also be able to get it online. The specifications for minimum brake pad thickness and rotor wear specs for each model are shown in a chart, along with torque specs.
Without that, how do you know you need brakes?
 
Brake Pad Thickness

If your ever at Sun-n-Fun or Oshkosh pick up one of these it is the thickness of the brake pad when it needs to be replaced.
They give them away.
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You can buy them from a number of places, usually within close enough prices, but I try to buy any thing that I can from Vans just to give them the business. Perhaps a way for me to thank them for their great kit & service, I suppose. If it wasn't for them, I was probably still flying at 85mph still :)
 
I just ordered an engine and prop from Van's

Also an entire RV-10 kit since Dec 2009. They are running a very efficient and profitable business. So I try to buy all of the remaining items from small and large companies all over the U.S., not just one in Oregon. Even though it is a fine one at that.
 
Please excuse a bit of a hijack, but I am in the middle of replacing the pads and cannot find the official brake "seasoning" or "break in" procedure. Can anyone point me to that info?

Thanks
 
Chad, if I remember correctly, your first flight was last July. Is this the normal life of a set of pads?
 
My first set of pads lasted 80 hours. I think this is normal for a new RV pilot. My thinking is that my next set will last a lot longer.
 
I agree with Alton 100% that this is the result of being a new RV pilot, and new tailwheel pilot. I'm sure that I am relying too much on the brakes to make turns and such.
 
I agree on the new pilot syndrome. I have over 230 hours on the RV-10 and the brake pads are about half way worn as of this past week end. The rudders on the RV's are quite capable of turning the airplanes with some airflow/prop blast across them. But conditions are certainly variable for everyone. Those with long taxis in strong cross winds will find themselves needing to appropriately use the brakes.

Vic
 
I just finished changing mine today at 370 hours. They really did not need to be changed, since they still measured about 400mm. But, I have a lot of flying scheduled in the next few months, so I went ahead and changed them. Vic is right on about using the brakes on the -10 while taxiing. They just aren't needed very much unless you have a strong crosswind. I just shake my head when I see a pilot taxi by in a single engine airplane and it sounds like the engine is at 1500 or 1600 RPM and the airplane is moving along at about 10 mph. :eek:
 
Well the verdict is in on my grinding right brake. Installer error when I did my annual back in January. I installed the inner liner (against the piston) backward after inspecting them, and it was rubbing the rotor. I am having the guys at work look at it tomorrow, but the rotor looks good to me (no grooves or uneven wear), and the fact that I've only flown it three times since the annual means minimal use since I pulled this bonehead mistake.

I hate to admit that because it's embarrassing, but at the same time, I feel mistakes need to be known to learn from.

The linings are nearly new still at 39.5 hours, so it looks like I'll have replacement linings on my shelf for a while. :eek: So...I guess my excuse that I'm new to flying RV's doesn't hold water at this point!:rolleyes::D
 
cjensen said:
Well the verdict is in on my grinding right brake. Installer error when I did my annual back in January. I installed the inner liner (against the piston) backward after inspecting them, and it was rubbing the rotor.
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Hi Chad,
Can you help me better understand this? I want to make sure I don't do it myself, as I am doing my annual right now, and it looks like I'll need new pads (on just one side, oddly enough). Do you mean that you installed the inboard pad so that it faced inboard against the piston and thus it was the backing plate that was facing outboard against the rotor?

thanks for the tip and thanks to all the other folks on this thread for the tips on what pads to get and where to get them.
brian
 
Holey Cow..

Some of the above discussion really amazes me... this is SERIOUS business folks, loss of braking can/will cause an accident.

IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO SOMETHING FIND SOMEONE THAT CAN HELP YOU !!!

HAVE A QUALIFIED INDIVIDUAL INSPECT YOUR WORK WHEN YOU'RE DONE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE NOT SURE WHAT YOU'RE DOING :eek:
 
Wayne Gillispie said:
:)http://www.parker.com/literature/Ai...WB Static Files for Literature/AWBTSG0001.pdf
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The Cleveland break in procedure is different than what was included in Matco instructions with the pad set from Vans.

Cleveland does not mention temperature, Matco does. It suggests getting the brakes up to 300-400 degrees. I'd never done that before but decided to try it last week although there is no way to measure it.

I got the brakes quite warm by taxiing with power and partial brake and then the right brake failed. What happened was the O-ring around the piston began to leak big time. It is about 8 years old so I guess it just decided to go flat with the heat. (Fortunately, I bought an O-ring kit a while back and had the replacement so it was fixed pronto)

I think the 300-400 degree break in recommendation is a bit much although it does test the integrity of an O-ring. :)
 
Walt said:
Some of the above discussion really amazes me... this is SERIOUS business folks, loss of braking can/will cause an accident.

IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO SOMETHING FIND SOMEONE THAT CAN HELP YOU !!!

HAVE A QUALIFIED INDIVIDUAL INSPECT YOUR WORK WHEN YOU'RE DONE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE NOT SURE WHAT YOU'RE DOING :eek:
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Wow Walt...never made a mistake, huh? I'm not gonna type in big bold letters to make a point, but I've been rebuilding brakes since I was a kid, and this was an honest mistake that anyone could make. Ask any A&P/IA/Repairman if they've ever made a mistake. If they aren't lying, they have.

While I certainly appreciate your point, and agree with the fact that this could have caused a ground loop or brake fire, I realized something was wrong after just a couple of flights, found the problem before flying it again, and fixed it.

Point taken, and I realize you don't know my history, but I posted this so that we all could learn something from an honest mistake.
 
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