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Wills_9A

Active Member
I have heard several other builders talk about using boelube with great success in easing the screw/bolts into the nutplates and am thinking of doing the same. My question is, if it makes it easier to put in, wouldn't it also then make it more likely to back out...would I be defeating the whole premise?
 
Will--

Can't answer your questions directly, about them backing out easier using Boelube, but Van's did specifically suggest to me that I use Boelube to make the rod-end bearings in the empennage fit easier. My EAA tech guy said for the collar nuts I could use some "green" thread lock" if I were really concerned. Apparently the "green" is adjustable later, where as the "red" thread lock is permanent.

However, the rod-end bearings really can't back out because the control surfaces are attached to them preventing the bearings from rotating, so this may not be the same type of question you're asking re: the wings.

Steve
 
No locktite is "adjustable later". You are correct that red is permanent. Blue is removable (but once it is broken loose it is no longer effective). Green has a penatrating property that helps it wick into the threads. The rod end bearings on the empennage hinges are also not likely to back out because of the jam nuts.
Mel..DAR
 
Wills_9A said:
I have heard several other builders talk about using boelube with great success in easing the screw/bolts into the nutplates and am thinking of doing the same. My question is, if it makes it easier to put in, wouldn't it also then make it more likely to back out...would I be defeating the whole premise?
Click to expand...
No, there is more than enough friction to retain the screw/bolt in the nutplate. I use Boelube on almost all of my nutplates that see frequent insertion/removal.
 
Boelube nutplates

I also use Boelube on screws/nuts that go into the nutplates and they have never backed out on me. In fact, when removing them, you'd swear they never had Boelube applied.

As far as securing the jam nuts on rod-end bearings, I just put a drop of RTV on the spar/thread junction and tightened down the jam nut... jam nuts haven't budged since then, and shouldn't be too difficult to remove(RTV is rather soft and rubbery).

Mark Andrews
 
Thanks for the replies...fresh tube of Boelube ordered, along with another 100 clecos (damn there are a lotta whole in these wings!)
 
Is there a good part number for the BOELUBE that people are using for the screw lubricant? I see numerous ones.

Mark
 
mantry said:
Is there a good part number for the BOELUBE that people are using for the screw lubricant? I see numerous ones.

Mark
Click to expand...

I used this

Really need it on tiny screw to keep from twisting them off the first time in. (like the #6 screws for the wing tip)
 
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i tried the solid form of boelube mentioned earlier, mostly because it was cheaper. it is about as handy as using the wax off a candle at 20 below. it flakes and does not adhere well at all. i wouldn't recommend it for screws. liquid is the way to go.
 
Mel said:
No locktite is "adjustable later". You are correct that red is permanent. Blue is removable (but once it is broken loose it is no longer effective). Green has a penatrating property that helps it wick into the threads. The rod end bearings on the empennage hinges are also not likely to back out because of the jam nuts.
Mel..DAR
Click to expand...

it is common shop practice in many places to use boelube on bolts into nutplates for first time install.

101-where possible torque to correct settings for the right clamp force.
It's the right torque that "stretches" the fastener the right amount, applying enough tension to keep the joint fastened.

Most of the loctite's I've been involved with are an anaerobic compound - No air = sets.
Generally, (dangerous I know)
blue = light hand tools/easy to break,
Green and red = long extensions and/or heat to break. ie more effort. with properly prepared joints "superglue" comes to mind as a way of describing the strength of the green's and red's such as stud lock and ...

Need to be careful on any internal head fastener with green or red loctite.

I don't know of any "resettable" loctites. Even the micro-encapsulation (hard blue/red) pre-applied to some fasteners are a one time use

The real question is, Why did I not notice the original thread was started in 2005? And why didn't I directly answer the question asked today.
<sigh>
 
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I do not believe plate nuts are built to very close standards. Some work some do not.

I have had them so tight no amount of lubrication would permit setting the screw without stripping out the screw head.

They are a royal pain in the butt, especially along a fuselage edge holding an internal panel where it is difficult to get a driver on the head at 90 degrees.
 
David-aviator said:
I do not believe plate nuts are built to very close standards. Some work some do not.

I have had them so tight no amount of lubrication would permit setting the screw without stripping out the screw head.

They are a royal pain in the butt, especially along a fuselage edge holding an internal panel where it is difficult to get a driver on the head at 90 degrees.
Click to expand...

I partially "undeformed" many of them by setting a vise-grip to a known clamp dimension, and squeezing them against their ovality. It took a little trial and error to get the proper setting which still allows plenty of thread torque. And of course, some sort of wax for inserting the screws. I use the wax from a toilet ring. About a buck for many lifetimes' worth. After 14 years of maintenance, they all still have plenty of friction to keep screws from moving.
 
Run a tap a smidgeon into tight platenuts, especially #6. Stripping out a screw head is a pain, worse if you're already involved in a field repair. And you don't have to carry Boelube. Beware: Loctite attacks paint.

John Siebold
 
RV7ator said:
Run a tap a smidgeon into tight platenuts, especially #6. Stripping out a screw head is a pain, worse if you're already involved in a field repair. And you don't have to carry Boelube. Beware: Loctite attacks paint.

John Siebold
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So if you have stripped a Phillips head screw what is the best method to remove? This is on a -8 switch panel right next to the sidewall. I have heard of cutting a slot but is the best way?
 
springer said:
So if you have stripped a Phillips head screw what is the best method to remove? This is on a -8 switch panel right next to the sidewall. I have heard of cutting a slot but is the best way?
Click to expand...

If you have access, it's easier to simply replace the nutplate.
 
Ditto on running a tap into nutplates. EAA has a video recommending this and when it came out it drove some on this forum bat$$$$. But dealing with a stripped screw can be an absolute nightmare. It is not friction in the nutplates that is supposed to hold in screws, it is the stress on the threads. No issue for any of the cover plates, floor panels, etc. I also always use boelube, particularly on exterior screws, because of the possibility of dirt and moisture issues.
 
I find the tightness of #8 nut plates to be pretty consistent, but I've had #6 plates so tight that even with BoeLube, I've actually broken the head of the screw off.

My solution? I made a jig to hold them, and then pre-thread the screw in to make sure it's OK, then rivet in place. They're cheap compared to the frustration of having to replace the bad ones.
 
Nut plates

rightrudder said:
I find the tightness of #8 nut plates to be pretty consistent, but I've had #6 plates so tight that even with BoeLube, I've actually broken the head of the screw off.

My solution? I made a jig to hold them, and then pre-thread the screw in to make sure it's OK, then rivet in place. They're cheap compared to the frustration of having to replace the bad ones.
Click to expand...

That's what I do. Found a few bad ones in the process. It adds build time but beats fighting with one later.
 
rightrudder said:
I find the tightness of #8 nut plates to be pretty consistent, but I've had #6 plates so tight that even with BoeLube, I've actually broken the head of the screw off.

My solution? I made a jig to hold them, and then pre-thread the screw in to make sure it's OK, then rivet in place. They're cheap compared to the frustration of having to replace the bad ones.
Click to expand...

Yes, and the cadmium plate thickness on a new screw can cause difficulties too.

"Season" the screw as well as the nutplate, and use Boelube.
 
I run a tap in and out of every nutplate that is for cover plates, floors, sidewall, wing tips and other "minor things. Do not on the control pivot rod ends, control things or on the motor.

I found NAS1096 screws which have a hex and Phillips head that are direct replacements for Van's ever popular AN515-8R8. I replaced about 90% of the 515 with these.

I put a bunch in a paper cup and add some Beolube liquid and stir before the first installation.

Never had a screw show any sign of becoming loose. The NAS1096 have reduced my replacement screw budget to near zero and the easyout is showing signs of rust!
 
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