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prkaye

Well Known Member
Are there any things I should mount on my firewall before hanging the engine? On the one hand access might be easier for some things, but on the other hand I might be guessing at ideal locations.
In my case it's a FP Carb O-320 on a -9A.
 
I put all the battery stuff on, than I put the center thingy on for the firewall. Than I installed the engine mount and engine. than I install the mufflers and left them loose for proper alignment after everything else went on.
 
things on the firewall

1. brake fluid reservoir
2. fuel sump (optional)
3. battery box
4. oil and fuel pressure transducer manifold
5. cabin heat box
6. oil filter / prop gov recess
7. holes for cables, wires, fittings, etc

Steve
 
Add to that list..

Master and starter relays
Current Shunts
ANL Fuses if your using them
Put it all the nuplates for the hose clamps for fuel, oil and breather lines.

If your going with a bone stock config and plan to use Van's FWF kit, it comes with plans to detail where to put almost everything. You can order these plans separate.

If you modify the layout, your on your own.

It is easy to add stuff that just requires a hole but of you need to rivet or need clearance, do it before putting the mount on.

I also used nutplates for anything mounted to the firewall so that you do not have to have two people to change out any part.

Before hanging the engine, make sure you put the oil pressure port restrictor fitting in the case. It is hard to impossible to get in after the fact unless you have one of them fancy new engines with a rear facing port and if it does, good luck getting the plug out of it!
 
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To answer the question, fit as much as you can just holding the engine up to the mount with an engine hoist. Check out other RV's to see where they placed things. You can generally figure out most locations and it is much easier to mount stuff without the engine hanging there. It gets pretty tight back there quickly.

Now for the off topic part. I am not a fan of hanging a bunch of stuff on the firewall. Generally speaking, the engine side of the firewall is a pretty harsh environment. Temps are up over 220 dF and the wind howls throughout. My preference is to hang as much on the cabin side as I can. Not only does it extend component life but it makes it easier to maintain the appearance of the engine compartment. I will be the first to admit that it makes it harder to get to sometimes but my airplane has a boot cowl. The RV-9A probably does not so that may be a factor for you. As a point of reference, there are only two things on my firewall, the heat valve and the manifold for the temp/pressure senders. Makes it real easy to clean. YMMV, to each their own, all standard disclaimers apply.
 
The oil pressure fitting....

.....on the engine. It's impossible to rotate with the engine mounted,

Regards,
 
Not exactly what you asked for, but you should attach and safety whatever needs it before you hang the motor. For example, the oil temp sensor is tough to safety wire with the engine on.
 
Yes to all of the above. I waited on my cables for carb-fi, mixture until the engine was hung and than went with my choice of pass through the firewall.
With a nose wheel you have half the battle won, make sure the plane is level and use a cherry picker hung at the center of the motor, should be a loop for that, may have to push a little and hit the bolt with a rubber malet to get them in, it took me about an hour by myself to get the mounts and bolts put in. They have crazy pins to put in, the best thing to do on that is clip the pin on one side right level with the hole in the bolt to the nut, insert and than take a screw driver and kick the long end over the end of the bolt. I spent about 15 minutes doing that.
 
Thanks Guys!

If your going with a bone stock config and plan to use Van's FWF kit,
Click to expand...

Yes, i actually have unpacked my FF kit (not yet inventoried) but haven't opened the plans that came with it.

2 more questions:

1. I have an engine hoist (borrowed) that uses a big hydraulic cylinder. Is it unheard of for these things to "let go" if you leave the engine hanging on them for too long? Would be nice to leave the engine hanging from the mount roughly in place for quite a while before mounting it, so I can move it out of the way when workign on firewall stuff. But i have visions of the hoist giving out and letting my engine crash to the floor. Paranoia?

2. My engine is coming this week, from Aerosport. Will it come with some kind of sling or chains already attached by which to lift it?
 
It should have one of these:

untitled.jpg


As far as the FWF kit and plans, the only thing I did not do before mounting the engine is cut the control cable holes because I want to make sure thats where I want them first.

I hated my engine hanging on the hoist.... Made me nervous!
 
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here is a picture of hanging my motor, hope it makes sense.

enginehang1.JPG


I would highly recomend just installing the engine and then go for the other stuff. I installed my engine at this stage and never had an issue with it, never wanted to take it off, in fact I went right into putting the prop on next, than the exhaust.

If you have never put an engine in a car, I would be finding someone that has to help you, two people, 4 eyes. one person on the hoist, the other lining things up. Once the engine is on, you won't have a problem with the fuse falling back. You can get inside and move all around. I'm 180lbs and I didn't have a problem.
 
Thanks guys!

I would highly recomend just installing the engine and then go for the other stuff.
Click to expand...

This would be my preference for a number of reasons, including getting the hoist of the way. Has anybody else done it this way, and either regretted it or not?
 
pierre smith said:
.....on the engine. It's impossible to rotate with the engine mounted,

Regards,
Click to expand...

Evidently Lycoming heard the call. My engine will accept the fitting in either of two ports near each other with the vacuum drive installed. The drive has been removed and a plate installed and it is easier yet to get the fitting in.
 
FWF

prkaye said:
Thanks Guys!



Yes, i actually have unpacked my FF kit (not yet inventoried) but haven't opened the plans that came with it.

2 more questions:

1. I have an engine hoist (borrowed) that uses a big hydraulic cylinder. Is it unheard of for these things to "let go" if you leave the engine hanging on them for too long? Would be nice to leave the engine hanging from the mount roughly in place for quite a while before mounting it, so I can move it out of the way when workign on firewall stuff. But i have visions of the hoist giving out and letting my engine crash to the floor. Paranoia?

2. My engine is coming this week, from Aerosport. Will it come with some kind of sling or chains already attached by which to lift it?
Click to expand...
Phil,
Yes the hoist will slack with time, most are only a hand crank with a turn screw valve that will allow for 'weeping'. Place a 2x4 cut to length to support the case, not sump, in the event of the hoist slacking. Harbor Freight hoists will slack, ask me how I know. Most hoists have a chain/hook assembly-hook too large on mine-I used a nylon tie-down strap wrapped many times through the engine hoist ring and the hoist hook-most tie-downs are rated at 800lbs so many wraps very strong.
LOOK at your FWF plans carefully. You will see MANY items that will be easier to install BEFORE hanging the engine. Gascolator support backet for one, many nutplates, all your electrical stuff and of course the recess panel. Also the heat caulk is a big tube and with the caulk plunger it is very long assembly. With the nose gear, like mine is and yours, you really only want to put this engine on one time. To be safe you should use two people to mount the engine, but you can do it by yourself. My conical mounts were easy compared to dyno mounts. To make life easier, put your tail tie down ring in or long bolt and put a saw horse under the tail/bolt till the plane is almost level. Secure the tail to the saw horse and put some weight on the saw horse to keep the tail down, don't ask me how I know this one-almost a disaster.
Hope that this helps,
Mike H 9A/8A
 
I am a long way from hanging engine on my slow build RV4,but have many years in automotive and I scrounged up a length of 1" square tubing to act
as a safety, cut to length as required for your situation,as those cylinders
do leak.........Tomcat RV4
 
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