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prkaye

Well Known Member
The DRDT-2 comes with plans to make a wodden bed that sits up at the height of dimpler, I guess to support large sheets of metal while dimpling.

Has anyone operated the DRDT-2 with and/or without this bed? Anyone found the bed to be indespensable, or useless?
 
I dimpled most of my emp without a bed. I just clamped the DRDT-2 to my workbench and had a helper hold the other end of a skin or whatever while dimpling. It wasn't difficult, but in the end I decided it needed a table of its own and I built the one shown on my website . Click Here. It's a simple 1 person job to dimple just about anything now.

--Ken
 
DRDT Tables

Phil,

Below is a link to my site showing the tables I built for mine. I didn't use the drawings that came with the DRDT, but mine are similar. I built them out of MDF from Home Depot. The surface of the MDF is so smooth it won't scratch the skins as long as the surface is kept clean. I couldn't dimple by myself without them, so I would say they are indispensable from that standpoint and they don't take long to build. I did not attach them to the dimpler so I can move them around, spread them out as needed, etc.

Dalton

http://www.deltazulu.net/Tools/tools9-11-05.htm
 
To get consistent dimples and avoid unplanned creases, it is important to keep the skin approximately level with the dies. The tables help, but one could just as easy lower the part of your bench that supports the DRDT base to keep the dies level with the skin.

If I had it to do again, Id redesign the tables to be a bit more movable/portable (possibly longer, to allow better support of the skins when working on outside edges).
 
I incorporated my DRDT-2 in to my workbench. It is removable, and the piece that was cut out of the table slides back in to place when then DRDT isn't there.

5-27-06-008w.jpg


5-27-06-009w.jpg


5-29-06-006w.jpg


The DRDT is not attached to anything when sitting in it's cradle. The weight of the thing keeps it sturdy enough, plus the slot that I cut rubs the DRDT, so that friction helps keep it in place when in use.

I also use two pieces of carpet scrap on each side to level the skins with the die.
 
I just built a simple one. Dimpling is much easier if you have a bench. Plus you don't have to depend on anyone else to help you. I used left over 3/4 plywood from my workbenches. I covered it with a soft cloth and stapled it to the plywood (not shown on link). Go here for link.
 
cobra said:
To get consistent dimples and avoid unplanned creases, it is important to keep the skin approximately level with the dies. The tables help, but one could just as easy lower the part of your bench that supports the DRDT base to keep the dies level with the skin.
Click to expand...
I might even suggest having the lower die a touch higher than the surface of the table/bench/bed. Another easy trick is to just use a washer or two under the lower die to shim it to the appropriate height.
 
Bigger is Better

I made my DRDT-2 table so that I could use it for other purposes. I found that I can do the skins with no problems with NO help. I would make one change though. I would leave a 2 inch lip all the way around except not on the back. I have it flipped down right now with the horizontal laying on some foam. Hope these pics help.

Bruce Pauley
#72742 RV 7A
Rowlett Tx
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=bpauley&project=84

 
Thanks Bruce, that's a nice looking setup... like the idea of putting the tables on wheels.
Question - how is the DRDT2 supported between the two tables? Did you drill holes in the sides of teh DRDT2 and bolt it to the sides of the tables?
 
Phil,

I put (2) 7" I think carriage bolts through the 2 2x8's and it acts like
a vise. Put some washers on the other end with wing nuts and there
you have it. You can look at my web site and I think you can figure
it out. It sure is handy to turn the DRDT-2 upside down and use the
table for other things.

Bruce Pauley
#72742 RV 7A
177WD res
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=bpauley&project=84
 
I built a platform per the plans that came with the DRDT-2.

When I have sheets to dimple, I put the DRDT-2 on one of my EAA Chapter 1000 work tables, clamp it down at the rear edge, and put the carpet-covered platform in place.

With this setup, I have been able to easily dimple all of the wing skins as well as empenage and control surface skins with no helpers needed. The sliding feature of the platform's design makes it perfect for the job.

When I'm not dimpling, the workbench is freed up for other uses by storing the DRDT-2 and platform elsewhere. It just doesn't make sense to dedicate a table to dimpling, considering the small percentage of build time that you spend doing it.

I wouldn't change a thing if I had it all to do over again.
 
Ive found there is no need to clamp the dimpler down at all- there is plenty of weight to keep the tool in place while dimpling. FWIW, It actually helps to be able to move the frame around on your workbench- makes alignment on outside edge rivets much easier when you can also move the support tables and frame around.

I bought the head and made my own frame out of twin thick-walled 1x2 rectangular steel tubes left over from an old car project (subframe connectors). Its turned out lighter and has a larger coverage (longer and deeper), with the same outside dimensions. I made several modifications that (I believe) have improved the operation at the working end. The drdt is a great tool, significantly better than the hammer dimplers.
 
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