cjensen

Well Known Member
Now that I've moved the airplane to the big heated hangar at work for the winter, I have all the mechanics giving me tips and pointers...some are great, and others are just uneducated (on RV's) on what they are looking at. One of our A&P's mentioned to me this morning that he is concerned about the battery strap being too close to the terminals, more so on one side than the other (second pic), but he suggested that I take it off and either remake it, or at least shave the strap back or move the bolt hole. The strap is elevated, as you know, so it's not as close as it looks in these pics, but I wanted to get some opinions on it none-the-less...

Thoughts?

Battery-strap-002w.jpg


Battery-strap-003w.jpg
 
Chad, it looks in the picture that the bolt hole by the +ve is off centre. If that is correct, and you inverted it and perhaps shaved it, you would probably have lots more clearance. At the -ve end there is not a problem, just make sure it is basically clear.
 
Battery Strap

Another suggestion...I used a heavy duty red big-rig shrink wrap on mine and used a razor to cut out the lightening holes, that just for appearances. Now when I drop tools into that area it is less exciting. :eek:

I found it at a parts store that stocks truck stuff, in the RV section, don't know what they use it for.

Montanamike
RV-6 N918MB
Registered, Finishing for Feb 2010 Inspection
 
too close

I did mine per spec. I agree it's too close.

I put some protective tape (UHMV) on the metal strap on the positive half. I also use a taped up wrench on the lugs.

My dar was also against any exposed terminals and buses, like the copper bus from vans' fwf design. You cannot put a boot on every area, so I bought some electrical insulation paint for the other terminals. Made the DAR happy.

Don
 
Self Fusing Tape

I am a big fan of Self Fusing Silicon Tape. I put a protective wrap around the strap to protect it. I also use it to wrap other exposed terminals. It is amazing stuff.
 
I saw one builder make that strap out of a thick piece of Delrin. He has not reported any issues since.

Funny but none of you mentioned the proximity of the Positive lead to the firewall. That is actually closer than the positive lead to the brace.
 
Optical illusion

I saw one builder make that strap out of a thick piece of Delrin. He has not reported any issues since.

Funny but none of you mentioned the proximity of the Positive lead to the firewall. That is actually closer than the positive lead to the brace.

They are about the same, but your point is well taken. I layer electrical tape on the firewall when I am putting my charger on it.
 
I saw one builder make that strap out of a thick piece of Delrin. He has not reported any issues since.

I decided to do something similar...I'm going to use a piece of phenolic board, .125 thick just like the AL strap, in the place of what I have. Too bad...those lightening holes look great! But I'd rather be safe I guess...:rolleyes:;):cool:
 
Always remove the ground connection first.

That way it doesn't matter if the wrench touches the firewall and when you come to the +ve terminal the battery is already isolated.

Jim Sharkey
 
Get one of the disposable cutting board sheets, the ones made of thin plastic----some kind of super duper cross linked magic polymer stuff.

This is amazingly tough stuff, resists cuts and abrasion.

Cut a strip about 3 X 5", slip it between the batt and the firewall, over the top of the + post, and under the holddown.
 
Battery hold-down

I removed the original, per plans, hold-down and gave it a double coat of "tool dip" to insulate it. While that holddown was out, I made a replacement of 1/2 inch angle that has better clearance and seems sufficiently strong. (So, yes, now I have yet another "spare" for the next build.)

Either one seems to work well and reduce sparking exposure when removing battery or working in the area. I'm sure we would know by now if the Van's original design had any in-flight risks.

Mike
 
I had the same concern on my -6A...

...so I beveled the hold down bar in the area of the positive battery terminal to give more clearance. I also REALY like Kevin Horton's solution, and will probably copy his solution.
 
Funny but none of you mentioned the proximity of the Positive lead to the firewall. That is actually closer than the positive lead to the brace.

I'll bet there are a ton of RVs our there like mine with marks on the firewall where the allen wrench that you were using to loosen/tighten the socket screw on the battery terminal quickly welded itself onto the firewall. Always exciting...

As previously mentioned, you can avoid this by taking off the ground line first/putting it back on last. I just stuck a patch of velcro fuzz on the firewall to prevent the metal to metal contact.

erich