Hi All,
I have one of the first pre-punch fuselages. I followed the instructions for the baggage door: back rivet the upper and lower angles, rivet on the fore and aft ribs. The instructions then say to bend/twist until it fits right. Then tape the door in place and blind rivet the back skin from the inside.
My door fits very well without bending or twisting except for standing just a little proud (1/16-3/32) at the tightest part of the bend. About two thirds of the way down from the hinge towards the lock. I was trying to figure out if that can be corrected or if that is about as good a fit as anyone ever gets.
I tried to bend it out a little but got nervous about how much pressure I could put on the door without really tweaking it. I would hate to put a crease in the door and have to start over.
What's the experience here? Bend harder or accept a very slight mis-fit? Would strapping it down really tightly and then blind riveting the back do the trick?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
I have one of the first pre-punch fuselages. I followed the instructions for the baggage door: back rivet the upper and lower angles, rivet on the fore and aft ribs. The instructions then say to bend/twist until it fits right. Then tape the door in place and blind rivet the back skin from the inside.
My door fits very well without bending or twisting except for standing just a little proud (1/16-3/32) at the tightest part of the bend. About two thirds of the way down from the hinge towards the lock. I was trying to figure out if that can be corrected or if that is about as good a fit as anyone ever gets.
I tried to bend it out a little but got nervous about how much pressure I could put on the door without really tweaking it. I would hate to put a crease in the door and have to start over.
What's the experience here? Bend harder or accept a very slight mis-fit? Would strapping it down really tightly and then blind riveting the back do the trick?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA