AAflyer

Well Known Member
So, I'm meticulously fitting and trimming my baffles, with the idea of keeping them snug against the head covers, as much as possible. However, the cork gasket protrudes irregularly around each valve cover, causing concern.
I finally realized that I might like to remove the valve covers, and change gaskets, without removing my baffles.
So, my question is?Is this logical? Should I go ahead and grind the baffles to increase the gap around the valve covers so the baffles are completely clear( and then some) of the cork gaskets?
 
Options - -

I went to the trouble to trimming the factory baffles to fit around the rocker cover gaskets. Just as I finished, I read that Paul Dye just took the covers/gaskets off, installed these pieces and reinstalled the covers. The gaskets probably over hung a few thousands, but the baffles are flat and the gaskets sealed.

Now you have a choice.
 
I went to the trouble to trimming the factory baffles to fit around the rocker cover gaskets. Just as I finished, I read that Paul Dye just took the covers/gaskets off, installed these pieces and reinstalled the covers. The gaskets probably over hung a few thousands, but the baffles are flat and the gaskets sealed.

Now you have a choice.

Hmmm?Since the baffles only wrap about 2/3 of the way around the valve cover, I don't see how this technique will work, since the gasket would no longer be on a flat surface around the entire perimeter of the cover.
 
Hmmm…Since the baffles only wrap about 2/3 of the way around the valve cover, I don't see how this technique will work, since the gasket would no longer be on a flat surface around the entire perimeter of the cover.

Works great with the silicone gaskets - they're nice and "squishy" (a technical term).....
 
Just slice off the bit of gasket that sticks out from the valve cover with an X-Acto. Soooo much easier than trimming the baffle, and no disassembly required.
 
And discard the cork gaskets and install these...... https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/lycgasket.php?clickkey=2174614

Monitor the proper torque.

Anyone have PIREPS on the REAL gasket version of these? I bought my dipstick tube gasket from REAL and was very happy--MUCH better than the stock paper gasket. Now, my cork valve cover gaskets are leaking a bit after 225 hours so I figured it's time to upgrade them as well.
http://www.realgaskets.com/files/horizontal.htm#lycoming
 
Anyone have PIREPS on the REAL gasket version of these? I bought my dipstick tube gasket from REAL and was very happy--MUCH better than the stock paper gasket. Now, my cork valve cover gaskets are leaking a bit after 225 hours so I figured it's time to upgrade them as well.
http://www.realgaskets.com/files/horizontal.htm#lycoming
I posted only because I have used these on my airplanes (Warrior and 6A) for the past 32 years without ever needing a replacement, and never a single drop. There is no problem sealing over the baffle edges without cutting anything. There is no limit to how many times you can reuse them.

The torque IS important. This item IS worth the money!!
 
I posted only because I have used these on my airplanes (Warrior and 6A) for the past 32 years without ever needing a replacement, and never a single drop. There is no problem sealing over the baffle edges without cutting anything. There is no limit to how many times you can reuse them.

The torque IS important. This item IS worth the money!!
The aircraft spruce ones you identified are cheaper, so I may go that route anyway. Thanks for the source.

I did notice on the REAL site, they too mention about the importance of torque initially and then re-torquing after a ground run. Must be something to that.
 
I've used the Spruce version of the Real gaskets on several airplanes... They work as claimed. Leak free without sealant and reusable forever.