[Rick S.]

I'm getting ready to attach the baffel seals to the baffle and hope Rick Gray will jump in here (like with the hardware he used). On Rick's RV-10 he used screws/washers and nuts to attach the seal to the aluminum. Very clean looking install and easily replacable should the material wear. My question is would this method be the best way or just follow the plans and pop rivet them on? And what lifespan can one expect from the rubber? At this point expense is not a factor...the way fuel prices are I wonder if I'll just end up with a static display RV-10

 

[erich weaver]

The standard pop rivets work fine but look a bit ugly for my taste; nothing wrong with small nuts and bolts either. I went with a very soft solid rivet along with close tolerance backing washers that prevent damage to the rubber. Clean look, easy to install, low cost. Got the rivets and washers through Genuine Aircraft Hardware in Paso Robles, CA.

erich

 

[rv6rick]

Hi Rick,
Van's pop rivet method works 'as advertised'. That said, I've used cad plated #8 phillips screws with nut and one washer on each side on every RV/Rocket that I've built. You hit the nail on the head....'When' you need to replace the seals there are no rivets to drill out...PLUS...they look a lot more professional. Might cost you 2 bucks more but well worth it.

Good Luck

I'm getting ready to attach the baffel seals to the baffle and hope Rick Gray will jump in here (like with the hardware he used). On Rick's RV-10 he used screws/washers and nuts to attach the seal to the aluminum. Very clean looking install and easily replacable should the material wear. My question is would this method be the best way or just follow the plans and pop rivet them on? And what lifespan can one expect from the rubber? At this point expense is not a factor...the way fuel prices are I wonder if I'll just end up with a static display RV-10

 

[Rick S.]

Thanks Rick, Love to look at your work. The -10 you built is sweet, don't know how you parted with it.