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markscogg

Well Known Member
How have people set thier back rivet plate into thier workbench?

My workbench has a 3/4 top. Rivet plate is only 3/8 thick. Is a 3/8 plywood spacer with some 2x4 under for support the way to go?

Thanks
Mark
 
Making a cutout with a router is the way to go. I don't have any braces underneath, and it still works great. Don't forget a little notch so you can take the plate out when needed elsewhere. :)
 
Portable....

Don't know if this is a good way or not, but it worked for me with a Quick Build...I took a roughly 2'x 2' piece of 3/4" plywood and set the plate into that with a router. I could then use it on the workbench, on the floor, on the table saw (great workbench, a table saw...I guess you coudl use it for woodworkign too! :p ), etc...anywhere that was handy. My main workbench was hinged off the wall, so sometimes for larger parts, I needed to work elsewhere.

Paul
 
Mark,

I took a 2 foot by 4 foot scrap piece of particle board and routed out a hole for my back rivet plate. I can just throw it on top of my work bench and it gives me plenty of working room. I went with the scrap piece because I didn't want the plate or a hole to be a permanent part of my work bench.
 
I used a router to prepare a cutout in a piece of MDF too. And I'll also vouch for the huge mess that it made in the process :).
 
WOW - Why?

I just layed my plate on the work bench whenever and wherever I wanted. It worked perfectly - is someone saying (I assume they are) that the that piece of dead flat and heavy piece of steel needs to be recessed into the work surface? I got my training at Van's in '96 and used that setup to build my plane with no problem whatsoever.

Bob Axsom
 
put it on the workbench

Bob Axsom said:
I just layed my plate on the work bench whenever and wherever I wanted. It worked perfectly - is someone saying (I assume they are) that the that piece of dead flat and heavy piece of steel needs to be recessed into the work surface?
Click to expand...
Gosh, it never occurred to me to build it into the workbench. I just put it on the bench whenever I needed it, which for a QB, was not too often.
 
No need to use a router

I bought a piece of quarter inch plate, glued it on a piece of chipboard and then laid a quarter in piece of MDF with a cut out the size of the plate over the top. So I have a recessed plate with out the need to cut a recess.
 
I got a "scrap" pc of stainless (14x3.5x0.5) from a machinist at work. I didn't polish it but I would say it is close to a 60 microfinish as is. Since you have rivet tape between the rivet and the plate I don't think it is really important to have a super smooth finish.

I was surprised at how little (timewise) this thing is used, so I wouldn't waste the time to mount it flush. I haven't done the Ailerons or Flaps yet but I expect there to be no more backriveting than on the Emp.. Its also nice to be able to move the plate around so you don't have to move your skin to line up with a stationary/flush BR Plate, and end up having to balance the big rudder or elev. skin off the edge of your worksurface.
 
Bob Axsom said:
I just layed my plate on the work bench whenever and wherever I wanted. It worked perfectly - is someone saying (I assume they are) that the that piece of dead flat and heavy piece of steel needs to be recessed into the work surface? I got my training at Van's in '96 and used that setup to build my plane with no problem whatsoever.

Bob Axsom
Click to expand...
I did mine like this as well . Seems to work just fine.I did my wings with the 10" back rivet offset and bar that Avery sells and I was pleased with the way they turned out.
 
I used a 1/2 inch plywood sheet under a 1/2 inch particle top. I like many of the others here used a router. Took a long time but it came out ok. This is the Avery back plate sold in the RV kits.

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Thanks

Wow! Thanks for all the ideas. Since I don't have a router, the throw it on the table idea may be best...
Mark
 
Quick and easy...

I took a sheet of thin plywood (the thickness of my backriveting plate., about 4 ft long and 3 ft wide, and cut it into two pieces. I cut out a notch in each of the pieces along the 3 ft long edges, half the size of the backriveting plate, each notch being 1/2 the size of the plate.

Lay the wood on your worktable, put the plate in the "notches", and have at it. I should note that I built two work tables per the plans from the EAA Chapter 1000 web site, putting the tables end-to-end allows me to put the backriveting plate and wood pieces anywhere on the tables with plenty of flexibility and room to slide the project back and forth. It also allows the table tops to remain intact.
 
A tough find around town for some reason. But I finally found one up.

Called Mill Shops, Machine Shops, Auto Body Shops, Steel Shops, Scrap Shops, Tool Shops, Welding Shops ...... every shop you can think of. Finally Toolrite Engineering solved my woe.

One 1/2" thick 6" x 18" slab of cold rolled steel ready to be taught how to back rivet! A little steep, but regardless would beat any cost of shipping in steel. $40 bones cash under the table.

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I will not flush mount this on the bench. 1/2" steel into a 5/8" MDF bench top sounds like ruining my bench.
 
I did not insert my plate into the table, but I did build a cushioned surround for it.

In your case, 1/4" plywood/hardboard, and 1/4" of indoor outdoor carpet would be just right.

Cut to fit the overall table size, and cut a hole in the center for the plate.

You can also use the leftover pieces to make a carpeted insert for when you are not using the rivet plate, and do want a soft bench top.
 
I am using a steel plate about 3/8 inch thick and 6x10...And it very loud...OMG...but works. Now if the ringing in my head would only stop.
 
Honkin' plate

Look around for a big piece of steel plate. Muy handy for all kindsa stuff. Mine is leftover from a hitch job, 14 x 16 x 3/4. The mass makes it work even on rickety surfaces. I have assorted holes in it to accept squeezer sets and a couple female dimples drilled in. I do a lot of back riveting like floors by using a handheld set and a hammer. Big hammer yields fast deformation with very light controllable blows. A big plate lets you reach a bunch of rivets without moving anything and your hammer will never run away like a rivet gun can. I actually use my pneumatic cleco thing more than my rivet gun. Helps keep the carpal at bay.
P.S. I love the table saw idea. If I had a big solid one I'd use it too.
 
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