[wvshooter]

Avery has the "block set" for $45. Looks interesting, what can you do with it?

 

[wirejock]

Dimpling block

Avery has the "block set" for $45. Looks interesting, what can you do with it?

I made three for less than $8. One 12" piece of 1"x1" steel cut and drilled. 5", 4" and 3" long.
The holes are 3/16 to hold dies for bucking in tight spots.
One end is polished to use as a bar. The holes fit over most shop heads to support parts when you drive out drilled rivets.

 

[wvshooter]

Avery dimple/rivet block set $45

Thanks Larry, that's some nice work you did.

Talked to Bob at Avery today and he says it's used to dimple holes in situations where there is a large sheet requiring one person on one side of the sheet with the "block" and another person on the other side with a rivet gun. If possible could you give an example of a situation where your home made blocks helped you set a dimple.

Also, am I right in assuming the blocks are never used to set a rivet

Thanks,

Dave

 

[wirejock]

Tools

Thanks Larry, that's some nice work you did.

Talked to Bob at Avery today and he says it's used to dimple holes in situations where there is a large sheet requiring one person on one side of the sheet with the "block" and another person on the other side with a rivet gun. If possible could you give an example of a situation where your home made blocks helped you set a dimple.

Also, am I right in assuming the blocks are never used to set a rivet

Thanks,

Dave

Thanks
I've never used them for it but it's conceivable. The holes are drilled so any of the dies fit. You could put one die in the block, hold it in place on one side and someone on the other side can use the shaft from the c-frame with a die in it (or one of these bars) and hit it to make a dimple.
I know one place the Avery would come in handy, dimpling the leading edge aileron skin for the rivets into the counterbalance pipe. I didn't use it for that. I hadn't made them yet, but they would work. Very tight space and #4 flush dimples.

I actually made them because a few times driving rivets out, the shank pushes the back material away. I was using a small socket on an extension but it lacked mass. The 3/16" hole fits over the shop head. I have to ask my wife to hold it but it beats messing up a part driving a stubborn rivet shank out. Especially the really long #4s.

The other use is back riveting in tight spaces. Place the universal head die in the bar and hold it against the factory head then back rivet.

They are not as heavy as tungsten but could be used to buck with the smooth end.