A

ao.frog

Well Known Member
Hi.

I'm wondering if these governor installnuts are the correct type?

They where sitting on the new Lyc IO-360 bought from Vans about 3 years ago.

Here's what the engine manual says:







It says in c) that "Lycoming mounting nuts" schould be torqued... etc.

Here's a pic of the nuts which came with the engine:



It seems to me that these nuts can get loose easily as they have no "locking function"?
If they become loose, then an oil leak isn't far away, right?

I'm wondering if we somehow have mixed up some nuts and the nuts required here is of a different type then we have installed?

Or maybe we schould use locking washers? (those ones with them "teeths" you know...)

Thanks
 
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Out of school.

I am probably speaking out of school here on this one, but. Most of the cores thread studs we see on the back mounts have this type nut. "BUT" the hardware stack is with a flat washer like the one I see in your "JPG." and a star washer between the nut and flat washer to lock it when you run it down tight. I would look in the Lycon. book and check it out, you may just be missing the star washers here... Your as always R.E.A. III # 80888
 
According to the Lycoming Overhaul Manual, Robert and Paul are correct. Flat washer against the aluminum housing and star washer between that and nut.
 
Aha!

Ahaaa... that makes sense! :)

I'll take off the nuts one by one tomorrow and check if there's starwashers there or not.
If not, the fault is ours since we (and not the Lyc factory) installed the governor.

Thanks alot guys!
 
Bottom washer

What is going on with that bottom washer? It looks like it might be the wrong size. Maybe it's just an optical illusion in the pic.
 
Piker's right. If you haven't yet, look closely at what we call an "engine nut". It has a flat bearing surface on one side. Nut, star or split washer, plain washer. The Lycoming reference in the instructions is just to differentiate the the stud sizes between Lyc/Contis.
 
Done deal...

We've now done it correctly:

All four nuts have a flat washer against the engine-casing, then a new starwasher and then the nut. And this time, we made sure we placed the nuts the correct way.

Finally they all where torqued to spec.

A very tight thing, this whole operation, but it was doable.




BTW: the yellow torque-seal is only there as a reminder to self: that the marked nuts are torqued.
I don't use, nor prefer to use the torque-seal as a proof that the marked nut or bolt has become loose. The reason for this, is that I've seen several times that a nut or bolt has become loose with the torque seal intact.

Therefore, I put straight lines on nuts or bolts onto casings etc with a thick markerpen. Those lines will always tell the true story...
(the mentioned lines are not yet drawn on these nuts though)

Thanks for the help guys! :D
 
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If you removed the nut to check to see if there was a lock washer (internal tooth), the lock washer should be replaced. Every time you torque a nut on these kind of lock washers, they loose some, if not all of their 'bite', which is why they should be replaced whenever they are removed.
 
Thanks for the tip Scott, and as I wrote in the post above, all the old lockwashers where replaced with new ones when we did this little operation.

Now on to the next task... it seems like every time we check off one task on the "last item list", two more task are added... ;) but hopefully one day soon, that new Lyc IO360 will start hummin'.... :D
 
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