Oroyo

Active Member
I want to cut the crossover bar on my rv6 so I can do the seat recline mod. I’ve seen some creative solutions but I’m wondering why not just make a separate latch on the copilot side instead? I see there’s an updated latch mechanism also, but I’m having trouble using their store to find all the pertinent parts. Are there diagrams that show these part numbers somewhere on the site? I’d need all the parts circled. Not sure if some of these are just diy only or are offered pre made.
 

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I want to cut the crossover bar on my rv6 so I can do the seat recline mod. I’ve seen some creative solutions but I’m wondering why not just make a separate latch on the copilot side instead? I see there’s an updated latch mechanism also, but I’m having trouble using their store to find all the pertinent parts. Are there diagrams that show these part numbers somewhere on the site? I’d need all the parts circled. Not sure if some of these are just diy only or are offered pre made.
Maybe I'm not fully understanding your proposal. Are you wanting to unlatch one side, then walk around the airplane to unlatch the other side every time you want to get into the airplane? Not to mention the fact that you would have to make sure both latches are latched every time. I would think that would get old really quick.
 
@Mel — unless he cuts torque tube in half it won’t work at all. If either side is latched he will not be able to unlatch / move the opposite side.
 
@Mel — unless he cuts torque tube in half it won’t work at all. If either side is latched he will not be able to unlatch / move the opposite side.

the OP is talking about cutting (removing?) the torque tube to recline the seats..Not sure if he’s talking about an “almost a 14 mod, or what his plans are for the rear seat support..
 
In terms of diagrams showing the parts, you can purchase the preview plans from Vans. If you’re talking about the Almost 14 mod, I don’t know that your solution will be any easier than the approaches documented on the Antisplat site, or here. You could definitely make two separate latches work, but you might end up getting annoyed at having to unlatch both sides to get into the plane.
 
Sorry for the lack of clarity. Yes I want to remove the torque tube completely, leaving just the very ends of it with the catch pawls. This will allow the almost rv14 seat mod to be installed. I don’t mind walking around to unlatch from both sides, this doesn’t seem like a huge concession to me, compared to the benefit of more room inside.
 
1) - your current setup is missing both lock nuts on the actuator rod. They really need to be fitted before further flight as the rod ends aren’t locked.
2) If you cut the torque tube you would need to make a second bearing to support the latch mechanism on either side.
ie leave a stub of the torque tube and support it with another bearing block.

I think your idea is feasible and when you close the canopy from the outside you would probably only lock one side. Really no different to most of the sailplanes I fly, you have to individually lock each side of the canopy.
 

You should look at the mod i designed.
 
1) - your current setup is missing both lock nuts on the actuator rod. They really need to be fitted before further flight as the rod ends aren’t locked.
2) If you cut the torque tube you would need to make a second bearing to support the latch mechanism on either side.
ie leave a stub of the torque tube and support it with another bearing block.

I think your idea is feasible and when you close the canopy from the outside you would probably only lock one side. Really no different to most of the sailplanes I fly, you have to individually lock each side of the canopy.
Yes that was my plan, buy two more plastic blocks to keep the latches on both sides. I was wondering about the lack of lock nuts on that rod, seemed odd for sure.
 
Howdy everyone. Just as another data point for installing the -14 seat mod into a tip -up RV; here is a link to a video on my channel. This is an over view video of the finished product; detail videos are also on my channel. Another detail: after completion, I replaced the various nuts/bolts with clevis pins and cotter pins where appropriate.

 
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Howdy everyone. Just as another data point for installing the -14 seat mod into a tip -up RV; here is a link to a video on my channel. This is an over view video of the finished product; detail videos are also on my channel. Another detail: after completion, I replaced the various nuts/bolts with clevis pins and cotter pins where appropriate.

Nice job, so pretty and shiny!
 
Thanks. This idea is not mine, but I don't remember where I saw it or who created it. After I got the feel for how it was suppose to work, I ran with it.
 

You should look at the mod i designed.
I had my almost a 14 mod completed with the normal fix of moving the bar. Then I replaced the standard flap motor with the after market flap motor. The bar was in the way. I had no choice but to try this mod with the flex cable. It was pretty easy to install and works great. No bar in the way which is great for accessing the rear. I highly recommend this mod!!
 

You should look at the mod i designed.
OK this is the way to go
I seen it, copied it and love it. THANK YOU TITANHANK !!!!
Had to order the cable and fiddle with it but it works great.
I did build a different mounting system for the cable but it is very nice and fool proof.
I didn't get the adjustments correct first but now it works flawlessly.
My luck varies FIXIT