[Echo Tango]

I found a shop in town that will dip my entire Emp. kit in hexavalent chromium for $100. Not a great deal, but I can't express how little I care for paint/primer prep. I guess what I'm asking is whether a chromate layer will hurt the alclad or not

 

[chaskuss]

No, it won't hurt the Alclad. It will also improve the adhesion of any primer or paint you apply to the surface. It will also prevent corrosion of the raw [no cladding] edges and rivet holes. It also adds no weight to the structure.
The 6061-T6 parts [angle] are not Alclad.
Charlie

 

[Vlad]

Charlie knows what he is talking about For years he was running S-n-F workshop and even got a pin.

You coming next year Charlie?

 

[Mike S]

Methinks the dip in alodyne should be preceded by a dip in acid etch, and a good rinse.

 

[Echo Tango]

Methinks the dip in alodyne should be preceded by a dip in acid etch, and a good rinse.

Yes I was going to ask the shop what their process was going to be. It is a metal finishing shop so im sure (hope) they know a thing or two about what they're doing. I will probably get all the parts match drilled, deburred and ready to rivet before I bring them over for a bath. Hope there are no headaches !

 

[Echo Tango]

No, it won't hurt the Alclad. It will also improve the adhesion of any primer or paint you apply to the surface. It will also prevent corrosion of the raw [no cladding] edges and rivet holes. It also adds no weight to the structure.
The 6061-T6 parts [angle] are not Alclad.
Charlie

Thanks for the response, Charlie! I've never had much of a stomach for paint/prep so the more of that I can have a professional take care of the better



Frank

 

[rbibb]

I'm positive the shop will clean,acid etch as that would be part of any standard (certified) procedure. It may be they don;t do certified procedure but there are hardly any customers who would use them so they'd be out of business.

$100 is a bargain. Most minimums for this procedure run $50-75 for a basket of small parts.

Go for it. If you want to go all in, mil spec, etc. epoxy prime after the Chem Film treatment. But if it were me I'd just wait and prime the outside as part of final finish process.

 

[chaskuss]

Thanks for the response, Charlie! I've never had much of a stomach for paint/prep so the more of that I can have a professional take care of the better
Frank

Frank,
I can understand that. I have no idea where you live or where you plan to fly your RV once it's flying. This factor has a a considerable effect on the likelyhood of corrosion. Below are links to some of my previous posts.
Vlad exagerates. I do NOT run the sheet metal workshop at Sun 'N Fun. I simply run the Alodine demonstration in the sheet metal workshop there. Yes, Vlad, I'll see you in April at Sun 'N Fun. See

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=571440&postcount=6

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=52520&highlight=Alodine

Frank,
If you decide to spend the money, be sure to deburr and dimple all your rivet holes and deburr the edges of all parts prior to taking them to the shop.

Charlie

 

[Vlad]

Charlie, your tent is dry and folded, ready for next Sun and Fun. However Rich already offered me a place in his camper. I am coming for two days only. Now back to aluminum treatment

 

[[email protected]]

a waste of time, cost, and effort...

this is simply not needed... stay focused on actual construction. spot prime before riveting with rattle can as you see fit.

alternatively, a couple of points to consider with your plan:

if you treat the raw parts you will still have lots of fabrication, finishing, and assembly that will leave many areas without this added 'protection'...

are you really intending to carry this process out with the wings and fuselage? much larger skin pieces where you are likely introducing a high chance of damage from all of the extra handling...

whatever you do... good luck!

 

[David Paule]

The process is typically done to the individual parts, not to the riveted assembly.

There are Mil-Spec processes, and unfortunately I haven't their numbers. It might be worth asking about that, though.

Dave

 

[az_gila]

The alodine surface is not hard and will scratch and wear off during assembly.
An acid etch and an epoxy primer (such as AKZO) would be far tougher.

Don't be too concerned about painting with the AKZO primer, its by far the easiest paint I've ever sprayed...

 

[rv7boy]

Primer Wars...Round 15

This thread started with the topic being "alodining alclad." "ALODINING ALCLAD!" HERE WE GO AGAIN!!!

It ain't necessary, but if you've got the time and feel the need...have at it.

 

[Echo Tango]

The process is typically done to the individual parts, not to the riveted assembly.

There are Mil-Spec processes, and unfortunately I haven't their numbers. It might be worth asking about that, though.

Dave

My plan is to to drill, deburr, and fit everything together, have it alodined, bring it home and rattle can it with some A-701 Zn Phosphate and be done. I think that will certainly suffice

 

[Echo Tango]

The alodine surface is not hard and will scratch and wear off during assembly.
An acid etch and an epoxy primer (such as AKZO) would be far tougher.

Don't be too concerned about painting with the AKZO primer, its by far the easiest paint I've ever sprayed...

I actually enjoy painting when everything is set up and ready to go. My distaste comes in the setup, preparation, and tearing down/cleaning of equipment. Kind of like cooking-- I love to cook, but the thought of cleanup usually ensures a Subway dinner

Work smart, not hard as they say

 

[Echo Tango]

This thread started with the topic being "alodining alclad." "ALODINING ALCLAD!" HERE WE GO AGAIN!!!

It ain't necessary, but if you've got the time and feel the need...have at it.

heh, I'm a moderate. i didn't intend to spark controversy, i just wanted to know that i wouldn't be harming my "high dollar aircraft parts."