PerfTech

PerfTech

Well Known Member
.... Several years ago I set out to find a solution for the problem of "smoking rivets" that have plagued most aluminum aircraft. If you don't have any on your airplane now, you will eventually, so keep this information in mind. I have yet to find anyone who knows this info so now its just the two of us! We first looked at mechanical solutions and all had some sort of drawbacks making them undesirable or not universal at best. Next we experimented with chemical and or adhesives with some success. Our original intent was to manufacture a high quality product we could bring to market, thus reaping the financial rewards. After a considerable investment of time and resources we did it, we reinvented the wheel. The product already existed but no one thought to apply its use to this problem at hand. The magic elixir is Loctite Threadlocker Green 290. It was designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it?s low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads, or in our case the minuet clearance around a smoking rivet. The product is anaerobic and cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock, vibration, shifting and heat creep. The product further seals and protects from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. The use is very simple and works flawlessly. When you have a smoking rivet, first get a suitable cleaner that leaves no residue like acetone, contact cleaner, MEK or similar product. Flood the rivet and immediately blow with air hose and high pressure to remove aluminum dust and oil etc. from the rivet and hole. Repeat this action a few times and let it dry. Now put a drop or two of the product on the rivet front or rear or both. Clean excess adhesive residue immediately with a damp cloth. The product sets in about 10 minutes. Fully cured in 24 hours. Cured product can be removed by soaking in methylene chloride. If this is done properly, you will not have a further issue with the treated rivets.
.... OK! enough with the free priceless advice. Please proceed to our website and buy something, anything. Thanks, Allan...:D
 
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Believe it or not there are rivits that might smoke that to go back and buck and re-rivit would be impossible without major dis-assembly.

Thanks Allan for the info, I hope I never have to use it.
 
smoking rivet?

Could someone please explain the smoking rivet? My imagination is drawing a cartoon picture! :D
 
wirejock said:
Could someone please explain the smoking rivet? My imagination is drawing a cartoon picture! :D
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The motion between the rivet and the structure it is installed in causes a fine black powder to show up around the rivet, often streaming back due to the air flowing over the area.

Looks like a smoke streak. Think exhaust pipe residue on a P51.
 
pierre smith said:
Say Allan, if they're smoking, aren't they loose?

Seems you'd buck and drive them to fasten, no?

Best,
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... Sorry I got tired of typing and missed addressing this. I was referring primarily to the ones that are difficult or impossible to get to, or where you don't want to destroy your paint etc. This product expands with tremendous pressure so the rivets get incredibly tight and don't seem to loosen again. The outcome is very impressive and seems to last for years. Next time you get an opportunity give it a try. Thanks, Allan... :D
 
Alan, awhile back you mentioned something new in the works for assisting in cooling the engine in hot weather.

Anything to report???
 
Tanks

Thanks Allan, there's been a lot of discussion about using this on the tank rivets to hopefully prevent paint blisters in the future. I'm certainly gonna give it a go.
 
Mike S said:
Alan, awhile back you mentioned something new in the works for assisting in cooling the engine in hot weather.

Anything to report???
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..... Yes I jumped the gun on that one as we are having trouble getting the major electrical component of the product. The supplier of this part is doing a redesign and keeps moving the delivery date back out further. It is now out of my control for a bit, but hopefully they will deliver soon. I will try to keep the forum updated. Thanks, Allan...:D
 
I talked to Van's a couple years ago about weeping rivets on the fuel tanks. They recommended the "wicking grade" green loctite at that time. The cleaning process is great info too.
 
I just learned something!

Jesse said:
I talked to Van's a couple years ago about weeping rivets on the fuel tanks. They recommended the "wicking grade" green loctite at that time. The cleaning process is great info too.
Click to expand...

....I didn't know that it was impervious to fuel. This is great to know and really expands the possible uses. Thank you for posting this. Allan...:D
 
Through studs

I used 290 on the front top through stud, the one with the spacer, not on a cylinder. I had a pesky oil leak there. It's been dry now 10-12 hrs, same pre clean procedure Alan suggested.
Have another similar small leak on a threaded stud on #4, no luck on that one, but its probably the cylinder o ring leaking there.
Debating fixing it or installing a crank case evacuator.
Tim
 
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