Spark plugs mainly. Any place that you have dissimilar metals or that has high heat and will need to be removed on a regular basis.
 
On the farm, we use it for just about anything that we think we might want to ever take apart again. On the airplane, maybe on some of the control tube bolts, tailwheel tube, inspection plates, stuff that has metal on metal but has lock washers to keep it together. If you really don't think it will ever be removed, I would not bother with it.
 
Bob Collins said:
The bolts attaching the alternator to the engine would be a candidate here, then?
Click to expand...

Nor really. The alternator is bolted to it's bracket. That will not be a problem.

The main place is the spark plugs. But don't over do it. People think that they need to fill the threads with the stuff. All you need it to brush it on thin with an acid brush. When you go to remove the plug, you will not have a mess to clean up in the threads.
 
Be careful with your torque wrench

You should be aware that if you use anti-seize on a bolt and the torque specification is for a dry bolt then you will probably over-tighten the bolt (and possibly by quite a lot).

Sorry for the generic warning - I wish I could offer you some more specific information about using it on your alternator bolt :eek:
 
Be aware that there is a liquid anti-seize and a paste. The paste is not what you want to use with your spark plugs but too many auto parts stores sell it and don't carry the liquid anymore. The paste stuff is excellent on: exhaust studs, starter studs and bolts, clamp fasteners (especially where heat is or corrosion may occur), and so on. Do not use where nylon locking nuts are used or where you don't want the paste to intrude. Heed the warning above about torque values.
 
On the spark plugs, be careful not to get any anti seize on the electrode. Just a light coating on the threads. I usually don't put any on the bottom two or three threads just to insure that none migrates to the electrode during installation.
 
Floating brake calipers...

...need it applied to the pins, since they move when the brakes are used and can get pretty hot. I apply it at brake pad changes on all my airplanes.

Best,
 
morlino said:
You should be aware that if you use anti-seize on a bolt and the torque specification is for a dry bolt then you will probably over-tighten the bolt (and possibly by quite a lot).

Sorry for the generic warning - I wish I could offer you some more specific information about using it on your alternator bolt :eek:
Click to expand...

So, does the spark plug torque value given by Champion assume (Champion) anti-seize? Don't want to bugger-up my insert threads!
 
Airflow performance also recommends putting anti-seize on the theards of the fuel injector nozzles.. Do you guys use the same stuff that is used on the plugs? or something else?
 
Superior had me use the liquid, which makes sense. The paste tends to go where you don't want it and then can become an obstruction.
 
Airframe bolt torques are...

..usually quoted dry.

But Lycoming quotes torque values for lubricated bolts... check their manuals.
 
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