Can you not just ground the black to the wing? Do you have to go All the way to your grounding block?I put all the wires for the pitot tube in wing just in case (with enough wire to reach cabin). (14 Ga) IIRC, one power wire supplies controller which in turn supplies the pitot tube itself.
In talking with Steinair folks during my panel build it turns out the harness has a power supply for pitot in one of the molex connectors but not a ground - so I'll run my ground wire to the grounding block but use the molex supply for my hot.
Since you have Dynon may be different (I'm using Garmin) but I'm sure if you give the guys at Steinair a call (Josh is the RV14 guru) they will give you the information you need.
You never "have to" take a ground all the way to the grounding block. The reason for taking grounds to the grounding block is to avoid ground loops which can cause noise in audio circuits. Bringing as many grounds as possible to a single point (establishing a uniform ground potential) avoids this risk. Grounds that carry more current through structure back to the reference ground (negative battery terminal attachment point to airframe) have the potential to produce more noise, since more current has more energy to induce noise.Can you not just ground the black to the wing? Do you have to go All the way to your grounding block?
The shield is useless at magnetic shielding, but the twisted pair should help. Make certain there’s no way for the return current to get back (like thru the wing skin) except the return wire.Plans built 14 (mine) has the pitot tube heat running right by the magnetometer (what could go wrong) so decided to use 14 awg. shielded twisted pair back to the tree of grounds on the firewall after reading about multiple failed magnetometer interference testing on the 14. Tried moving the cable as far aways from the magnetometer as possible. Still no joy. The good news is zero noise in my headset but still fails the magnetometer interference test. I have 2 AHRS and G5 and do not get a mis-compare but still not satisfied.
I’d just relocate the magnetometer to the opposite wingtip. A bit of a pain in the butt but probably only a few hours work at worst.Plans built 14 (mine) has the pitot tube heat running right by the magnetometer (what could go wrong) so decided to use 14 awg. shielded twisted pair back to the tree of grounds on the firewall after reading about multiple failed magnetometer interference testing on the 14. Tried moving the cable as far aways from the magnetometer as possible. Still no joy. The good news is zero noise in my headset but still fails the magnetometer interference test. I have 2 AHRS and G5 and do not get a mis-compare but still not satisfied.
Sure, locate magnetometer opposite wing. Get Richard to help. Only need to re-route 6 or 7 wires down the opposite side of the fuselage of a (in my case) flying Rv-14 and then down the wing. Just a few hours work. Then re-pin the avionics harnesses. Easy pisé. I am kidding, this is at least 2 weeks work, flying RV.Are there any effective alternative magnetometer locations that avoid this issue? Or am I opening a can of worms?
Ha! Try that in a -10. That side panel is a bear to remove and reinstall (especially if you want the paint to survive), and there is no other easy way to run the wiring.Sure, locate magnetometer opposite wing. Get Richard to help. Only need to re-route 6 or 7 wires down the opposite side of the fuselage of a (in my case) flying Rv-14 and then down the wing. Just a few hours work. Then re-pin the avionics harnesses. Easy pisé.
Been there did that, test with pitot heat on, fails. Test with wing strobe on, fails. If you don't do the interference test no problem. Running pitot heat wiring near a magnetometer never a good idea, or at least a marginal idea,We recommend placing the magnetometer in the stock left wing location. Run a twisted pair power/ground from the pitot tube to the wing root where power connects to the molex pin #4. The ground should continue past this point and joint the ground bus behind the panel.
Have done! More than once. I rerouted many wires chasing a ghost AHRS problem in phase 1.Ha! Try that in a -10. That side panel is a bear to remove and reinstall (especially if you want the paint to survive), and there is no other easy way to run the wiring.
It is more like major surgery if done after the fact.Have done! More than once. I rerouted many wires chasing a ghost AHRS problem in phase 1.
Sure it’s not “easy” but heck if you can spend a few years and who knows how many hours building it, this is trivial.
Let me know how many hours you all waste trying other suggestions before you end up putting it on the other side.
Where in the tailcone, or is this already a well-known mod with 16 threads?I put mine in the tailcone, no issues.
One bulkhead aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead, located near top using the available mount. I also added a piece of 3/4” aluminum angle between the mount and top skin stringer to make the mount rigid.Where in the tailcone, or is this already a well-known mod with 16 threads?