Phil

Well Known Member
I'm going to be installing an alternate static system into the airplane and I'm trying to find a source to acquire valves of various types.

Checking around Spruce, I can't seem to find anything there.

Anyone have a source that sells valves?

Phil
 
I bought an alternate static kit from SafeAir. I am not going to use it and will be selling it brand new in the original packaging. I forget what they sell it for. If you look and see that it would work for you send me a PM.
 
Thanks Tony. I think I've seen those. Aren't they the one that has the insert that you pull out of the fitting?

If so, I'm looking for one that's a little cleaner in the panel. I really like the Cessna type that you just pull out and the valve opens. But found a few references online for $350!!! Couldn't actually find any for purchase (didn't have the part numbers), but just saw an online discussion about them.

Phil
 
Here are a couple alternatives......

http://clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=TV-2SP

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6791t13/=6bkk6i

Then there is the Piper approach, which is basically just a schrader valve. I can remembered how upset I was when I purchased the official Piper part to put one in my Cherokee when I found out it was identifical the the fuel drain valves. Piper gave it a fancy important name, then marked it up 3,000%.

I will be going with one of the valves above and I like Matt's approach with a the safety cover.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Tony. I think I've seen those. Aren't they the one that has the insert that you pull out of the fitting?

If so, I'm looking for one that's a little cleaner in the panel. I really like the Cessna type that you just pull out and the valve opens. But found a few references online for $350!!! Couldn't actually find any for purchase (didn't have the part numbers), but just saw an online discussion about them.

Phil

Yes, the SafeAir alternate static is pretty basic. I think it around $25 so I guess I got what I paid for.
 
Thanks.

I ordered the TV-2SP from Clippard and also ordered an adapter from Avery that is:

1/8" NPT (Female) -> Quick Disconnect

This way I can make it a simple connection in the back of the panel.

Thanks,
Phil
 
I too like Matt's idea. Matt where and how will the static tubes plug into on the valve and what substance will hold them in place?
 
This is what I mentioned above:

This valve has an 1/8" NPT (male fitting).
http://clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=TV-2SP

I ordered this adapter from Avery. It's 1/8" NPT (female) to quick connect.
http://www.averytools.com/pc-1005-124-fitting-straight-f.aspx

Simply shove the static line into the back of the quick connect. The static line will be seated and sealed by an O-ring and its got a retainer to keep the line from coming out. Pretty impressive stuff and insanely simple for the builder.
 
I too like Matt's idea. Matt where and how will the static tubes plug into on the valve and what substance will hold them in place?

Just one connection is required - all you need is a NPT thread to quick-connect adapter, as mentioned by Phil above.

I goofed up and ordered a valve with male threads, so I will need to either find a female-NPT-to-tube adapter, or order a new valve with female threads as Phil did.

mcb
 
I goofed up and ordered a valve with male threads, so I will need to either find a female-NPT-to-tube adapter, or order a new valve with female threads as Phil did.

I checked all over on the clippard site and I can only find it with male threads.... So I think you got the only one available. :(
 
I checked all over on the clippard site and I can only find it with male threads.... So I think you got the only one available. :(

Ah yes. My memory is fading, I guess. Well, I know those adapters exist since I know who makes 'em. Stein, are you listening? :)

mcb
 
In the spirit of this thread, I'm guessing you shouldn't use any thread tape to seal the threads of an NPT fitting like that?????

You'd think that could come off and clog a port.

I'm curious to know............
 
all the SafeAir static ports come with tape on the threads....:confused:

If the tape isn't hanging past the threads, (past the first thread would be better) and you don't take the joint apart after assembly, then it wouldn't be a problem. If you do take it apart & tape remains "torn" on the female threads............then?

Years back, I had an instrument or two that called for teflon tape on the fittings. Afterall, it's friendly on the nylon fittings. I just don't remember which ones they were.

I'm just basing this..... on years of using teflon tape for gas lines in the HVAC industry. Combine tape with a thread sealant on gas fittings, and it's the best in regards to holding pressure for a test. For airplanes, it's those little shreads that can lead to problems.... :eek:

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
We have used those Clippard toggles a lot in many panels that we've built. I guess I didn't know there was much of a demand for them so I never stocked many or kept them on the site. If there is enough demand I'll start keeping them in stock.

As far as an official "adapter", since it's 1/8" NPT, a trip to the local aviation department at Home Depot or Ace should suffice, or you can use many other number of things. I suppose we could even stock a specific adapter for it if there was enough demand....

They are nice little valves that fit nicely into a panel!

Cheers,
Stein
 
Clippard valve

Stein,

I would buy one from you if you decided to stock them. They have a $10 handling fee plus shipping which effectively doubles the price for me. Do you have any now? Thanks Bevan
 
Hi guys,

Just a quick update. I ordered a huge batch of those toggle valves from Clippard as well as some nifty hose fittings to screw right on to them...should make installation a snap. The valves have not come in yet (will be a couple weeks), but for those of you who already have the valves we are now stocking the push fittings with a 1/8" NPT female fitting to screw onto them. I haven't got them on the website yet, but if you call/email we can get you one.

Should be a couple weeks and they'll be on the website.

Cheers,
Stein.
 
Good news, Stein....

They're really nice valves... I had a buddy who was pretty skeptical about them. Two days ago I showed it to him and he loved it.

It's simple (w/push connectors), clean, and elegant safety addition to any panel.

Love mine... I just wish my plane would fly so I could use it correctly. :)
 
Guys,
Be aware, the one from clippers will not be a great option for static as it leaks under vacuum. The seal pretty good under positive pressure but with negative pressure they will leak.

I bought one and it leaked so I bought a second one thinking that it maybe faulty, the second one leaked as well. I took it a part and can see that it not built in such way to work under negative pressure.

In reality, this will probably only affect your system only during the IFR testing as they put negative pressure in the system to simulate the altitude. So, if you do install it and want to get the IFR certification on your equipment, just plug it during the test.
 
Stein: Thanks for update. I'd like the switch with push on adaptor and some tubing; 5 feet each of white and red. Thanks. Will call when back in US. Bill
 
They're really nice valves... I had a buddy who was pretty skeptical about them. Two days ago I showed it to him and he loved it.

We have a Clippard toggle valve in our RV-6's panel for alternate static air and one thing about it is that the operating force is very low, quite a bit less than any electrical toggle in the panel.

This made me worried about inadvertent actuation of the valve.

Probably not a disaster if that happens... the altitude hold autopilot will get excited for a few seconds, but that's about it. Possibly an issue about needing to recertify if you've "opened" the static system. Still, I chose to put a spring loaded guard over the toggle.

Something to think about with these valves...

--Paul
 
Last edited:
How much vacuum do they put on the system? I'm sucking on my valve as hard as I can and I can't seem to detect any leaks.

I am cross eyed now though...

On the topic of accidental opening, I'm placing a guard over the top of it so it'll be no big deal.
Phil
 
Phil,
I am not positive as how much vacuum they put in it but they need to test up to 20K feet so that would be 20 inches, right? But they obviously put that incremental, go up 1000 feet and check for accuracy.

I wouldn't expect to see vacuum leak by sucking on it. What I did to test was using a vacuum pump and let it see if it leaks and sure enough I could see it slowly go down and that is on both of them that I purchased. The standard is not to change more than 100 feet in one minute to pass for IFR.

Hope this helps.
 
Yeah, I know, it's making the system more complicated than it need be, but what about an electrically controlled valve?

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=3429165&PMT4NO=0

Hey, there's never been a system yet that a good engineer can't make even MORE complex LOL!

That valve is 120V 60 cycle AC valve. It will not work on a 12V DC electrical system that we use in our aircraft.

It is not a good idea to have a backup that requires electric to work. If you had a plugged static port AND an electrical failure, you would be in the same situation you would be if you did not have an alternate static port.

The odds of having both a static blockage and electrical failure are high. If you have the OLD mechnical VSI, Airspeed, and altitude, you just break the glass on the VSI and you have your alternate static source.
 
That valve is 120V 60 cycle AC valve. It will not work on a 12V DC electrical system that we use in our aircraft.

It is not a good idea to have a backup that requires electric to work. If you had a plugged static port AND an electrical failure, you would be in the same situation you would be if you did not have an alternate static port.

The odds of having both a static blockage and electrical failure are high. If you have the OLD mechnical VSI, Airspeed, and altitude, you just break the glass on the VSI and you have your alternate static source.

I wasn't seriously suggesting that...I am well aware of the old adage that "things should be as complex as necessary, but no more".

I'm curious, though...what scenario would lead to both a static blockage AND an electrical failure that you think has a high probability (assuming a single root cause, and not multiple independent failures)?