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Staunch111

Well Known Member
I was at an Airshow today in Sydney (and nothing flew because of 52knt winds but that's another story) and spoke with your equivalent EAA spokesperson. The topic of conversation came up about alodining (w.r.t VANS QB fuses) and he said "it's no big deal, you can just spray it on".

My question is this, for the average home builder who is building in their 2-3 car garage, is this even realistic. I would have thought not, particularly given the toxicity.

It was also suggested that some builders are applying hair spray lacquer (to their QB fuses) to stop the oxidation process. Really?

I'm intersted in hearing your thoughts?
 
Make your own decisions, but if you read the msds, a good neighbour would not be spraying that stuff in the 'burbs. Not great for your own health, either.
There are many opinions about priming. You aren't building the space shuttle:D
Cheers, DaveH
 
I thought about alodining. It's a simple process and adds virtually zero weight, but the stuff is toxic. I went with Wattyl Super-Etch as many RV builders do. Your choice though.
 
While near Spruce last month I picked up a quart of the prep and the Alodine. Not too happy with the results. Color is odd and after two days it still rubs off with fingers if gripping the part.....

By the way are the recommended three coats of this stuff starting to get heavy?

*Three coats are required to achieve the recommended dry film thickness when used without a topcoat - See more at: http://www.wattyl.co.nz/en/find-the...rustSuperEtchPrimer.html#sthash.i8lxXkJB.dpuf
 
flyingriki said:
By the way are the recommended three coats of this stuff starting to get heavy?

*Three coats are required to achieve the recommended dry film thickness when used without a topcoat - See more at: http://www.wattyl.co.nz/en/find-the...rustSuperEtchPrimer.html#sthash.i8lxXkJB.dpuf
Click to expand...

That may be true on an industrial steel frame building, but I'm happy with a single coat on my aircraft. It's easy to apply and tough, and seems to be well regarded for this application in this part of the world. Don't know if it's available in the US, but you have similar products over there.
 
flyingriki said:
While near Spruce last month I picked up a quart of the prep and the Alodine. Not too happy with the results. Color is odd and after two days it still rubs off with fingers if gripping the part.....

By the way are the recommended three coats of this stuff starting to get heavy?

*Three coats are required to achieve the recommended dry film thickness when used without a topcoat - See more at: http://www.wattyl.co.nz/en/find-the...rustSuperEtchPrimer.html#sthash.i8lxXkJB.dpuf
Click to expand...

You should get the Henkel instruction sheet and read it. Sorry, no link. I clean with alcohol first, then dip in mix of the dip (mixed with distilled water) for about 2-3 minutes, rinse with distilled generously, then dip in alodine for 2-3 minutes. The Henkel sheet will say if it is chalky then it is probably too thick. Store in the dark and put it back in the bottle or it ages too rapidly.

One more thing - I rinse the final alodine dip off and blow dry immediately, and hang with safety wire to dry. This keeps an even tone to the surface.

To the OP, I am pretty bold with hazardous stuff, but spraying should be seriously considered first. Should be low pressure, large drops, like a garden sprayer, and all of the floor covered with plastic, completely cover the skin and face, respiratory protection, generous quantity of DI or distilled water for rinse, (another sprayer?) and then when done collect all the contaminated stuff. Maybe others have cleared this hurtle and have a clever way to deal with this. It seems important to collect and reuse at least some of the alodine.
Good luck.
 
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