istrumit

Well Known Member
I am following up on my previous comment that I always seem to have more of a tailwind than forecast, or less of headwind, by about 7 kts.

So, today I did the 3-leg test. I flew 90-360-270, with the autopilot on and dialed in. No power changes...I just let the the AP hold altitude in still air while I rotated the heading bug to the different headings in between stabilized flight.

Never did my TAS read over 165 kts...its was, in fact, steady at 165 kts. Full fuel. Myself and another adult. 5500 feet and 95 def F (on the ground - forget to check the OAT at altitude).

I have a G900X that logs everything for me, so I brought the chip home and typed the numbers into the spreadsheet that everyone (thank you) pointed me to.

The spreadsheet says 174 kts ! 9 kts faster that my TAS reads. Which is about what I thought (I was guessing 7 kts).

Thats good news ! But, now I have to figure out why its not reading correctly.

Static system is the first check.
 
Got bumps over the static ports?

Edit; more info:
If able & willing, at your home or other airport, set your altimeter for field elevation while on the ground and fly a high speed pass down the runway at fairly low AGL (10-20 feet, by perception; not by altimeter). Check altimeter reading during the pass. Does it read below field altitude?
 
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Got bumps over the static ports?

Edit; more info:
If able & willing, at your home or other airport, set your altimeter for field elevation while on the ground and fly a high speed pass down the runway at fairly low AGL (10-20 feet, by perception; not by altimeter). Check altimeter reading during the pass. Does it read below field altitude?

No bumps. Just a tiny little hole on each side near on of the aft rivet lines. Another on the bottom of the Bottom of the fuselage.
 
Try plugging the bottom port, and gluing a reasonable facsimile of Van's recommended static port rivet head over each of the ports on the sides. (Also verify that the side ports are located in the recommended position on the fuselage.)

But before you do, fly the low pass. I'll bet you will find the altitude reading...interesting.
 
Try plugging the bottom port, and gluing a reasonable facsimile of Van's recommended static port rivet head over each of the ports on the sides. (Also verify that the side ports are located in the recommended position on the fuselage.)

But before you do, fly the low pass. I'll bet you will find the altitude reading...interesting.

I'm not sure I have a static port on the bottom. I was wiping the bottom of the fuselage down yesterday and I noticed a hole that was exactly along the same line as the side ports, but this one was bottom center. All three ports are located just in front of the rivet line prescribed by Vans.

I have noticed also, now that a few folks are suggesting a low speed pass, that, when I review my flights on Google Earth, I frequently show up on Google Earth screen as being below the runway height.

That could be just a Google Earth glitch, but it fits the other evidence.

BTW - Wouldn't a static leak cause a 'high' reading instead of the the 'low' reading that I am experiencing ?

I will update when I have a chance to work on it a bit more.
 
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Does your TAS difference gets larger the faster you go? If so, place a piece of gorrila tape just in front of the static holes, without covering them, and do another GPS speed test. Your displayed TAS and your calculated TAS should get closer together. Keep adding layers of gorilla tape until you get a difference of less than 2kts between the two. That tells you how big a "shim" you need to instal to compensate for static port position error.

As for the Google earth error, are you using GPS altitude or transponder reported altitude? They are not the same and can point you in a wrong direction.
:cool:
 
Does your TAS difference gets larger the faster you go? If so, place a piece of gorrila tape just in front of the static holes, without covering them, and do another GPS speed test. Your displayed TAS and your calculated TAS should get closer together. Keep adding layers of gorilla tape until you get a difference of less than 2kts between the two. That tells you how big a "shim" you need to instal to compensate for static port position error.

As for the Google earth error, are you using GPS altitude or transponder reported altitude? They are not the same and can point you in a wrong direction.
:cool:

OK...thank you. Yes, the error seems to be more as I go faster...based on only stall speed v expected (2 kts) and this recent box test (9 kts).
 
Does your TAS difference gets larger the faster you go? If so, place a piece of gorrila tape just in front of the static holes, without covering them, and do another GPS speed test. Your displayed TAS and your calculated TAS should get closer together. Keep adding layers of gorilla tape until you get a difference of less than 2kts between the two. That tells you how big a "shim" you need to instal to compensate for static port position error.

As for the Google earth error, are you using GPS altitude or transponder reported altitude? They are not the same and can point you in a wrong direction.
:cool:

OK...thank you. Yes, the error seems to be more as I go faster...based on only stall speed v expected (2 kts) and this recent box test (9 kts).
 
If your low google map track altitude is based on static system altitude, that would match up with your low indicated airspeed at cruise in pointing to static system error.

Kevin Horton (Canuck; not LA) told me about this when I asked a similar question about 20 years ago. I had flush static ports.

I cut the heads off a couple of large pop rivets & glued them over the flush static ports. Got a free 10 kt increase in cruise speed. :)

If the hole in the bottom is *not* connected to the static system, it's probably a 'weep hole' to help drain any accumulated moisture/water in the tailcone. Not a bad idea to have one forward of each bulkhead, if it's a taildragger. Don't know which side is preferable for nose draggers.

Charlie
 
The Google Earth altitude matches the altitude set on my autopilot and displayed on my G900 (the "indicated altitude")...so, I am assuming (?) that this is static.
 
BTW - Wouldn't a static leak cause a 'high' reading instead of the the 'low' reading that I am experiencing ?

In most cases, that is correct.

To add a bit more as what I did since I was having a similar issue in my RV7A. Originally, I had a flush head static ports which was resulting in a high IAS. After experimenting much, I cut a pop rivet head and glued it to the port which improved it significantly. The only problem that I see with pop rivet is that there is no good way to ensure that it will seal good for a long time to come. I ended getting Cleaveland static ports and those are pretty darn accurate (within 1 knot) for me. They seal well and can't imagine they would start leaking after a year or two or more.
 
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In most cases, that is correct.

To add a bit more as what I did since I was having a similar issue in my RV7A. Originally, I had a flush head static ports which was resulting in a high IAS. After experimenting much, I cut a pop rivet head and glued it to the port which improved it significantly. The only problem that I see with pop rivet is that there is no good way to ensure that it will seal good for a long time to come. I ended getting Cleaveland static ports and those are pretty darn accurate (within 1 knot) for me. They seal well and can't imagine they would start leaking after a year or two or more.


If I add rivet heads to my flush ports, I am expecting my IAS to read higher (and thus closer to reality).

But....if I read you correctly, you were reading "high" until you added the rivet heads, causing your IAS to read lower.

BTW - for the Board, I really just need a half dozen of these AN470A-3-2 rivets to mess with...but I can only order by the 1000 ! Any ideas where to get just a few ?
 
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Scott,

My experience was *low* IAS at speed, and *low* indicated altitude at speed, when I *did not* have bumps over my static ports. BTW, I have the same symptom with my current -4, but haven't bothered to add the bumps.

If you're asking for rivets to make the static port bumps, you can just go to any big box store or hardware store & buy some 3/16" shank aluminum pop rivets. Separate the stem from the head (hack saw; wire cutters, etc) & glue the head over your existing ports.

Charlie