[avi8tor50]

Since the instructions for the baffles are so...hmmmmm...how shall I put it..."primitive?" was wondering what folks have used for the width of the strips (i've seen 1 1/2" and 2") and how far back from the edge of the baffle folks set the rivet line (5/16? 3/8?) and, finally, how many used lacing and if so what they used for the lacing.

Thanks to all who reply!
Peter K
9A

 

[Rick_A]

Working on this myself

I'm working on my baffle seals right now also. I set the rivet holes down 3/8" from the top of the baffles. I'm using the McFarlane Cowl Saver Material with comes in a 3" width. I'm trying to minimize the number of breaks in the seals so I have some variation on the height above the baffle. It averages about 2.25" to 2.5" above the baffles.

I'm also trying to figure out how to join the over lapping sections. The Cowl Saver is so slick on one side that RTV doesn't stick to it (even if I roughen it up with sandpaper).

 

[drill_and_buck]

baffles

I have an RV-8 and just last night finished placing the airseal on the sides and aft baffles. I have the older baffle kit and the directions don't reference rivet spacing or airseal dimensions.

After cruising through these forums and reading various posts I ended up cutting 3 inch strips of airseal material. I drew a line one inch from the bottom and used that as a reference to position the the airseal. All of my baffles curve one way or another. Amount of airseal above the top of the baffle is +/- 2 inches.

I set the rivets back far enough from the edge so that I would meet edge distance requirements in the event I had to drill out the rivet and use a #8 screw.

At first I was going to try to use a continuous strip of airseal material on the sides and back. My mock up resulted in too many puckers from the bends and shifts so I dropped that idea. Your mileage may vary.

One tip I picked up on the forums that helped. The airseal comes rolled up and as a result the material already has a bend/curve in it. Keep this in mind when you cut the airseal. Placed properly on the baffle it will naturally curve inward.

Mike Draper
RV-8
N468RV
TMXO360 CS
baffles then canopy!

 

[Webb]

Staples??

I was at the airport the other day and was looking a a Cherokee 180 that the A/P had and they use staples for the fabric seal material to the aluminum.

 

[dpansier]

Baffle airseal

My twin Cessna came from the factory with the baffle strips stapled in position, never had a problem with them.

 

[az_gila]

Not on Grummans

My twin Cessna came from the factory with the baffle strips stapled in position, never had a problem with them.

So did my Grumman... but I don't think you'll find a single one out in the field now with the staples still in....

Large head 1/8 aluminum rivets work well with no backing strip.... as long as the large head is on the flexible material side.

gil A

 

[Steve]

lacing

I initially laced the 4 coners along the aft baffle edge using waxed cord pulled with a sail makers / awning repair needle. I borrowed the equipment from a bud who got it from his dad who did airplanes back in the 40's and 50's. I've since been to the local fabric and craft stores looking for my own gear without luck. The needles were Singer brand (3" long, diamond cross section, curved at the pointy end).
Anyway, I've since removed the lacing at the outermost corners because I couldn't get the baffling material to lay correctly. The material just overlaps the adjacent piece and ram air holds them in place. I applied a coat of West Systems resin/hardener on the inside of the top cowl. IIRC, I have approx 1 1/2" baffle rubber showing around the baffle box. Rivet holes are 1/2" down from the alum edge.
With a whole 32.7 hours on the Hobbs, the highest oil temp I've seen has been 198 F and cyclinder head temp is around 375 F.

N345SF
Steve