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patrickbulanek

Member
I just bought a RV-4. There are no air vents in rear seat. Does anybody know of any good mods or new devices to get some airflow in rear seat?

Any info appreciated.

Patrick
 
You probably won't need cool air to the rear seat. A nice breeze comes through the canopy unless it's sealed. As for heat, you could run some scat through the center section but I've never really thought it was worth it.
 
"I'm a touch warm..."

Patrick,

I bought a 4 just before the summer started last year. With only 1 vent in the front, and I ran into cooling issues for my pax in the back seat as well. To solve this, I would angle the vent up into the canopy. This would blow air back into the back while blowing some air on the back of my neck. I was supprised that I was able to stay some what comfortable with the air blowing down the neck :rolleyes:

My fix to this problem was to tie into the duct work for the front air vent and run a second line back to the rear pax. I ran the duct work underneath the upper lip of the sidewall and attached a vent just behind the roll bar. Got the idea while walking through the Home Depot's PVC Pipe section. Saw a "Y" fitting and said to my self, "now that might work." I picked one up and used some spare tubing I had at the hangar and, well, there ya have it :)

So far this summer, no complaints from the Secretary of Defense... :D
 
This may work for you. RV-10 vents. About $20 from vans. I put one on each side for my wife.

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Vetterman Vent

You can also try one of the little Vetterman vents. Same concept as the RV-10 vent (sticks out in the airstream when open), but smaller and with a cleaner install in my opinion.
 
Air vents

Do both of these air vents seal tightly to avoid rattling and allowing rain to seap in?

I appreciate all the info so far.

Patrick
 
Deja Vu

Same discussion, different year:) I have used Larry Vetterman's vent's on several RV4's, they work well, close flush and look slick. The Van's RV10 vents Axel posted are also excellent. If you have time and don't mind some cutting, install a NACA duct under the right wing (ala RV8) and run 2" scat into the back seat with an eyeball vent. Fresh air is a good thing, especially where I live.

Smokey
HR2

VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-4 > RV-4 air vents
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dougweil
06-21-2005, 06:36 PM
Greetings all:


I really need to increase the fresh air ventilation in my -4. Right now I am taking fresh air off the back baffle and running it through Van's mixing box into the cabin. Plenty of fresh air when in the "cold" mode, but since the air flows through the top of the cowling first, it is about 10 degrees above ambient. Not good on a hot day.

I want to install a NACA vent under the right cheek venting up to a fresh air eyeball mounted under the right lower portion of the panel. I have a fair amount of experience in knowing that there are a lot of weird pressure areas around the RV-4 cowl and canopy. Have any of you mounted a NACA vent in this area on the RHS?? Does it work OK???

BTW, I have one of Larry Vetterman's little rotating scoop things for the rear seat pax and it works very well on the RHS of the canopy skirt. But mounting a similar vent for the front pilot is useless (I had one located here on a previous RV-4 and it sucked air out!!)

Thanks

Doug Weiler
N722DW, 200hrs
svanarts
06-21-2005, 07:30 PM
I have two NACA scoops located on either side of my forward fuselage just below the cheek cowls. These go to two eyeball vents on either side of my panel. Approximately in the middle of the sheet of aluminum that makes up that side wall. They both provide a lot of fresh air. I usually keep one pointed toward the back seater and have actually been asked to close it. So, pretty good airflow.

I remember reading that some have added NACA scoops to the bottom of their wings a la RV-8 and had very good airflow. Personally I like them on the sides; easier to check for wasps and very good airflow.
dougweil
06-21-2005, 08:31 PM
Thanks Scott,

I have never heard anyone NOT getting lots of air from these locations. Here in MN/WI we worry more about getting enough heat in the winter, but we really do have a couple months of hot weather.

Doug
jhallrv4
06-21-2005, 09:33 PM
I also have the Vetterman's vents, and the one in the rear skirt is GREAT! The one I installed in the front skirt had the same result as yours. Diddley squat. Looks great, though. I think I gained 5 knots. :rolleyes:
The area under the left cheek is preferred. Higher pressure there. I have a NACA under each wing, one for the front, one for the back. A bit tough to add after the fact, though. Larry Vetterman uses a "Vetterman" vent under the left cheek, and operates it with a speedometer cable/knob setup, others have copied it (Russ Kamtz of "retractable steps" fame) and report excellent results.

Jeff
garnt.piper
07-18-2005, 01:33 AM
I mounted two of those little pre-molded NACA style vents in the LH fuse skin below the canopy skirt, one in front and one in back. They vent directly into the cockpit. Both get good flow, and in Australia in summer you need it! I could do with more on hot days, but my main bitch is my hot feet! With the 4-1 collecter exhaust exiting under my right foot, it gets a bit toasty. Have ceramic coated the exhaust, and that helped. Had a heat shield on it before, but the ceramic coating does a better job. May have to re-fit the shield. I didn't fit any heating system at all.

'build light - fly fast'
Jerry Stevens
08-04-2005, 12:58 PM
I live in Oregon and in the summer months it gets hot. Today it is suppose to be 98 and we will probably have a few days in the 100s Not as hot as many places but so hot my 4 would cook me in the summer.

What I did was mount a 2 inch air inlet in the front of the cowl just to the right of the spinner. I attached it to the baffeling. I then ran scat tubing back to the vertical baffeling where I attacted a flanged 2 inch tube to penatrate the baffeling. On the rear side of the baffeling I installed a 2 inch T. I ran scat tubing from each side of the tee to another flanged 2 inch tube that was installed into the rear cowl cheeks. I now had ram air into the cowl cheeks. Inside the **** pit I drilled two 1/4 inche holes on each side one by my knees and another just in front of where I sit. I then took a hole saw and cut four holes about 2 inches in diamater out of a piece of scrap aluminum material. I bent each of these at a 45 degree angle about a half inch from the center. I then scribed an arch around the holes in the fuselage. Next I drew kidney shaped holes in each of the four locations where I wanted the air to blow out at my chest and feet. Make sure the holes you make stay the half inch away from your center hole and the outside edge of the circle you scribed. Also there is no need for the hole to be larger than the area that the bent part of the cut out hole covers. I used a die grinder to do this after a half inch starter hole. Last step is to install the bent hole material you cut out with a 1/4 inch bolt and tighten it down to where you can turn your half bent hole to open the air inlet but still will remain where you put it. You will find that you can install the nut on the inside of the cowl cheek through the blow hole.
To make it short and sweet this works great. A two inch hole right out front at airspeed makes it so that I get a lot of fresh air on my feet as well as my chest and you can direct the air where you want it by rotating it where you want it. It also is a cheap way of doing it.
For the girl friend in the rear seat she has the little spendy twisty things to keep her cool one on each side.
If anyone has any questions feel free to contact me would be happy to help out. akbound@yahoo will work.
Jerry
Steve Sampson
08-06-2005, 01:30 PM
I have just ordered a -4 so willl be interested to see any replies. Also, is there anywhere where I will find these vetterman scoops you mention Doug? Vetterman seems to sell several things other than exhausts but I have never seen a web site. Can anyone give me a link?

Thanks, steve.

PS Does the -4 fuse jit come with any form of ventilation?
dougweil
08-09-2005, 08:45 PM
I think Van has the Vetterman vents in his catalog. Call Larry Vetterman and you can get some from him directly. BUT.. if I had it to do over again, I would install 2 NACA scoops on either side of the fuselage below the cheeks and behind the firewall and run aeroduct tubing to 2 small whisperflow vents on either side of the instument panel. I's have a NACA vent on the bottom of the wing ducting air to the rear seat like the -8.

No the RV-4 does not have any ventilation kit included to my knowledge

Doug Weiler
Steve Sampson
08-11-2005, 11:50 AM
Thanks! I might just look at the RV10 vents mentioned in the last RVator.
 
Everytime someone refers to those as the "RV10" style vents I have to laugh. Don't you mean the "Cessna 172 style"?

Or "Piper Cherokee style"?

Both those airplanes used (and the piper ditched) those style long before the RV10 invented them.

I like the Rotating disc style from the link to Van's catalog, but it's hard to argue with the simplicity, and the amount of air the Cessna 172 style puts out.
 
The Air up there...

I tried every type of vent in my 4. Back in the day everyone installed the canopy skirt naca ducts which we all know don't work, it's low pressure.

I really like the Vetterman flip-outs for the pit (back seat) installed 12" below the canopy skirt, 12" forward of the rear seat occupants waist. For the front I have used a side mounted naca duct below the rear cowl cheek. Also, the lower cowl cheek is a great place for a naca duct, but has to be installed during const.

I took a page from the Thorp T-18 guys (my other RV) and used wing root ducts. Every Cessna out there has them, lots of success stories. They work extremely well with 1" scat feeding them to cockpit vents. Simple, effective and not much cutting.

Smokey

 
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smokyray said:
I took a page from the Thorp T-18 guys (my other RV) and used wing root ducts. Every Cessna out there has them, lots of success stories. They work extremely well with 1" scat feeding them to cockpit vents. Simple, effective and not much cutting.

Smokey
Click to expand...

I wanted to do those kind of vents on our -3 (after seeing them on my neighbors F-1), but there is so little room between the wing root and the fuselage that it would have been a bit of a nightmare trying to fit it - and I'd have had to make fiberglass wing root fairings....
 
Dang. Did not think about one in the wing root. I don't have a solution for the front seat vent yet. Need to look into this some more. Paul, do you have pics of the F-1?
 
Air it out...

Paul/Axel,
My RV application was pretty quick for test purposes but ended up working well. I used a 1" flange from Acft Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php
I cut off around the circumference until it fit inside the front of my aluminum wingroot fairing, then I cut a 1" hole through the fairing slightly below the MCL and Hy-Sol'd it in place from behind. I fit 1" scat tubing and used a 1" firewall flange duct from the same page above through the fuselage to the cockpit. A duct similar to the one pictured above is available through the Thorp group.

Voila, very slick.

Smokey
 
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Use one RV-10 vent

That's what I used in the back seat of my -4. Works great. Maybe a little drag, but comfort of the GIB is essential. this works.
Ron
N8ZD - 500+ hours
 
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