Bob Axsom

Well Known Member
Has anyone done, or know of, an experiment to eliminate the air filter from the induction air path, in flight or on the ground, to determine its effect on power and speed? What was done and what were the results?

Bob Axsom
 
See

http://www.lazy8.net/intakesystem.htm

This is a classic "the devil is in the details" question. If you make a very good expansion chamber, and use a very large (surface area) filter, you will gain nothing by bypassing it. Too bad we don't have room for these in our cowlings.

If you are carburated, it is tough to find the room for a large filter, or even room for an alternate path to run the air when you switch the filter out.

You could just leave the filter out for racing, and stay on paved runways.

Have fun, John
 
High Quality Information John

I read the information at the links and studied the photos. I really appreciate the input. Much more solid stuff to consider as I think of the possibilities over the holidays.

Bob Axsom
 
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I have heard of a number of RV owners removing the filter and having the engine run horrible. I have never tested this my self to verify. One guy claimed that when he picked up is airplane from a paint shop (he didn't build the airplane) it was running so bad taxiing to the runway that he went back to the shop. They found that someone reinstalled the airbox without the filter (I guess they removed it for some reason while painting).

Apparently the filter does some straightening distributing of the airflow for this particular shape of airbox.
 
My Dads -4 with 0-320 carb had the old ram snorkel, he installed Van?s air filter box with the bigger snorkel and noticed a small loss in speed so you are giving up some performance. Then he thought he would leave the filter out once to see how it did and it ran like **** and he never left the ground, after re-installing the filter it ran normal again, I think the same has been confirmed by several at the least.
 
Good information to know Scott

Thanks for that information - fore warned is fore armed. I have been conceptualizing a ram air "race only" substitute for the air box. It would have a soft red rubber (with embedded mat) coupling to the cowl input. I would make a removable door (similar to the oil door - with flush fasteners) for the bottom of the cowl to permit installation of clamps for an air tight coupling the rear end of the new part could pick up the existing mounting holes in the airbox mounting plate but the air passage would go directly into the mouth of the carburetor. Long before implementation I'm sure this will change but the possibility of simply removing the filter and running a test is almost too enviting to pass up. If I do it (very probable) I will report the results but I'll bet we will hear from someone that has done it already.

Bob Axsom
 
Air filter or Not

Bob Axsom said:
Has anyone done, or know of, an experiment to eliminate the air filter from the induction air path, in flight or on the ground, to determine its effect on power and speed? What was done and what were the results?

Bob Axsom

Hi Bob, my settup is much difference than yours and yes I have tested with and without my K&N airfilter and I found NO difference other than allowing the engine to breath unfiltered air. The key is designing the air inlet shape, the box design, the size and brand of filter etc. I'm running a very large K&N air filter that is cone shaped / tapered with a bullet in front of it and the box is a 100% sealed design. The air inlet is 10% larger than the venturi of my Bendix Servo. I've got a forward facing Bendix Servo which is a benefit over the updraft design. I have Not played with an updraft design on an RV like what you have so what I'm using is not a good comparison. If you look through some of my post and look at the pictures you will get a general idea. I do have to say that I'm seeing upwards of .8" -1.2" MAP increase depending on the day, temps, pressure, altitude, etc. Something worth looking at is to do a search for "PRO Stock" Drag racer links and look at what they are doing to build pressure in the air box. They are taking forward facing air then building pressure in a plenum, then making the transition to the carbs at 90 degrees. The hotrod dragracers have some things out there that are worth researching. Mostly look and study the scoops on the race cars and try to relate or understand what they are doing with the scoop and their designs. Just a thought.
PS some engines make more horsepower with an air filter versus none if it is designed and is applied correctly. Good Luck.
 
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As Usual AJ

Great input Alan your pressure gain is consistent with what others have observed. This is something that is going to require some research and the Pro Stock drag racer search is a good source I'm sure.

Bob Axsom
 
No

Bob,
According to Van (in our 6A manual) the airbox is well designed in that the large filter, compared to Cesspools, is a flow straightener. The plenum allows the air to decelerate so that it can make the 90 degree turn upwards and the big filter acts as a flow straightener. That's one reason the updraft carbureted engines run poorly with the filter removed. You have turbulent air coming in.
Regards,
 
BIG MYTH!

(Note: the hyper text in blue)

Van's air box is pretty good for the Carb or Vert FI. Actually the filter has the effect of straightening out the air flow. Fuel injected engines where the throttle body may not care about air coming in straight like a carb may pick up 0.05 in-hg of MAP. Of course you may cut the engine life down a few 100 hours?


BIG MYTH, bigger the air filter the better. NOT TRUE

Well actually it will make service interval longer with more surface area but it will not increase manifold pressure or reduce loss (much at all). It may seem counter intuitive at first, but K&N filters at their spec CFM are already have very low pressure drop (K&N filters). We're talking about 0.10 in-hg MAX loss at MAX CFM. Most of the time we are 1/2 to 1/4 of the filters capacity so pressure drop may be 0.05 or 0.02 in-hg. That is peanuts. So if you double the size of the filter than current your pressure drop reduction is half of nothing. Add to the fact it does straighten flow out, which is important to carbs. Not so much for fuel injection.

So a small increase in area is not going to make a difference. I know James Aircraft says the cone filter he sells (also a K&N part) has more area, which is true by double for Vans FAB360 (50% more than the Vans horz-FAB). However this is only a small improvement in reducing filter pressure drop, less than 0.05 in-hg on paper at most. Hard to see that on a analog gauge. You may see 1 mph more speed from that. However the air box needs volumn.

KEY is slowing the air down before getting air thru the filter. The Cessna style with the filter plastered flat on the front of the cowl is terriable. The Cone shape filters (James Aircraft air box) usually are in a small round air box facing fwd. The air has little time to slow down. There are trade offs in other words. We just don't have a lot of room for filters but what we have is adiquate. Where the Van's Horz-FAB has large volumn (like a reservoir) and no external drag which is probably is key or claim to fame. The down side with VAN's HORZ-FAB is it does not work with a James cowl. However show planes says their NASA style cowl (round smaller inlets) works with Vans HORZ-FAB. http://www.showplanes.com/index_1024.htm The down side is you need an extended hub prop, which means a MT or special Hartzell if there is even one to be found. Of course the MT has a speed penalty. DARN ALL THESE TRADE OFFS. I wish we could have it all.

Bottom line you really have a good set up with the stock Van's air boxes, both Vert and Horz.


For fwd facing injector the Horz-FAB is really very good. Van wrote and article on it 5 years ago. From inspection you may think it may not work. Well it works well plus you get a MPH, two or three from not having a scoop. Plus it gives a net MAP, meaning at sea level at 200 mph the MAP is equal to the ambient pressure, meaning NO LOSS. Many Cessna's are running 1" to 1.5" loss in MAP!!!!!!!!!!! Keep in mind there are losses along the induction, so RAM air or dynamic pressure can only do so much.

HOW MUCH PRESSURE CAN YOU GET?

People point to the P-51 and how much boost the induction got from forward speed. Yes BUT it was going +400 mph. Pressure increase with a square function. At 200 mph you have 1.4 in-hg to play with. If you can capture 1/4 of that you are doing very well. Of course you have about 0.30 in-hg loss in the induction. So you are lucky to see 0.00 to 0.10 over ambient pressure. Well at 450 MPH you have over 7 in-hg dynamic pressure!!!!!!!!!! So the faster you go the more pressure you get. SO the lesson is fly fast. :D

PS of course all this is about getting more HP. A 1/10 in-hg increase in MAP is not going to make a big difference. One big gain is reducing the external drag of a scoop. That is why Vans no scoop FAB for the Fwd face induction is good. Not only is it surprisingly efficient (giving a net or small boost in MAP) it has no scoop drag!!!

-You will not do too much better than Van's set up
-Filter area is not super critical as long as its large enough
-External scoop drag is a part of the total formula (gain to be had)
-Increase in MAP is not the holy grail, just a small part, Vans set up works
 
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More on Air inlet set up

I have the I/O 360 with horiz draft injection on my RV8. My set up has the air filter and s- duct originating at the left cowl inlet( in lieu of the snorkel). Am I Getting less power due to the lack of RAM air? It seems as though I would get less air flow due ton the engine having to SUCK the air at this point, rathern than having the air rammed into the throttle body. What do you guys think?
Thanks
Al Grajek
 
No I think you have a good set up

algrajek said:
I have the I/O 360 with horiz draft injection on my RV8. My set up has the air filter and s- duct originating at the left cowl inlet( in lieu of the snorkel). Am I Getting less power due to the lack of RAM air? It seems as though I would get less air flow due ton the engine having to SUCK the air at this point, rather than having the air rammed into the throttle body. What do you guys think?
Thanks
Al Grajek
I think your set up is pretty good.

Do a test (at your own risk):

-Sitting on the ramp note you engines MAP gauge.
-Takeoff, do a high speed low pass over the runway WOT/Max RPM.*
-Note MAP.
-It should be with in 0.10 in-hg of sitting on the ramp.

If in flt MAP is greater than ambient you are doing super.
If its net the same as ambient, you are doing very good.
If its 0.10 in-hg less than ambient, that is good/typical.
If you are less than 0.10 in-hg, consider cleaning the filter (try test again)\\

It is that long S-duct that gives the induction system is volumn or reservoir. That is goodness. Also as I say above you have basically ZERO external drag from no scoop. That is good for? 1-2 mph at top speed. Van's test show the HORZ-FAB air box is as good or slightly better than the other Vert-FAB, which is already very good.

Remember our RV's with their fast speed and better air box are getting 1" to 1.5" more manifold pressure than a Cessna!!!! With poor exhaust and air box a C-172 160 HP engine is lucky to make 130-140 HP.

NOW WHY ARE YOU DOWN ON POWER? Who knows? You don't say what makes you think you're down on power? What engine, prop? Is top airspeed or ROC lower than expected? That can be drag related not thrust related.

*Flying low and fast can be hazardous to your health, so do it at your own risk. Also look for traffic or have some ground crew to help you. Consider eye protection. A bird in the face at +200 mph will leave a mark. :rolleyes:
 
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Here's a thought

Let's just consider the straight air flow in isolation for now. It seems that a person could build up a duct from an inlet point to the mouth of the carburetor with no sharp bends using small diameter tubes encased in a shell for strength, uniformity, and mounting provisions. The mounting on the carb would be a hard mount and the coupling to the inlet would be a tightly sealed rubber "hose" (if the inlet is part of the cowl isolated from the engine). It seems the flow into the carburetor would be linear and the pressure would be related to airspeed. What do you think?

Bob Axsom
 
Many small tubes

Bob Axsom said:
Let's just consider the straight air flow in isolation for now. It seems that a person could build up a duct from an inlet point to the mouth of the carburetor with no sharp bends using small diameter tubes encased in a shell for strength, uniformity, and mounting provisions. The mounting on the carb would be a hard mount and the coupling to the inlet would be a tightly sealed rubber "hose" (if the inlet is part of the cowl isolated from the engine). It seems the flow into the carburetor would be linear and the pressure would be related to airspeed. What do you think?

Bob Axsom
There is always loss darn it. Scoops are not 100%. You are lucky to get 1/4 to 1/2 the pressure right there externally at the inlet. Than the rest is down hill from there with internal loss.

Van had an unfiltered air box until the mid 80's. That airbox was a BAM, right there, no filter and the carb, straight shot. It really did not work that well. That elbow or turn is a pain and produces turbulence the carb hated. The FAB was better and a big improvement. Per your original postulation, air filters are really good. The K&N filter are really amazing. Keep them clean of course. There are all kinds of scoops and ducts that would be better but they would be 6 feet long. We just don't have room. The pusher guys come up with pretty elaborate ducts but we are stuck with the engine being right there in the line of fire. That is why I say Van done good. NOt saying its not worth looking into but there are trade offs. Van has a good balance of design and performance.

Now as far as your idea, hummm, small tubes. NOT sure but from fluid dynamics you are probably better with one tube not a bunch of small ones. You do want laminar flow in the big tube. You can put guide vans inside the airbox. However I think we are talking splitting hairs. You want to go faster I say 8 JATO's on each side of the fuselage. :D Once the wings rip off drag does down and you will go faster. :rolleyes:
 
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I think it is worth looking at so far

I think it is worth looking at at this point. John Huft beat me by roughly 17 MPH in the AirVenture Cup 2006 race. I think that margin can be cut down by next July - Ah well, dream on Bob it is satisfying.

Bob Axsom
 
Another mental input exercise

Say you go with the multi-tube approach for induction air flow direction control. What would be the effect of using larger diameter tubes in the center of the flow path for bulk air passage ans smaller diameter tubes angled to induce a vortex to the flow into the carb?

Bob Axsom
 
I drempt up using two round inlets, joining together in a plentum to the fwd-facing injector body. At least plugging one of them wouldnt shut the system down. The added advantage is increasing the volume of the induction system as a whole.
 
There's an interesting idea

Bob Axsom said:
Say you go with the multi-tube approach for induction air flow direction control. What would be the effect of using larger diameter tubes in the center of the flow path for bulk air passage ans smaller diameter tubes angled to induce a vortex to the flow into the carb?

Bob Axsom

You're initial idea with the multiple tubes is probably going to be a negative. There are two ways to lower the pressure of the incoming air: turning it, and running it past a surface (increasing boundary layer). Multiple tubes will add lots of boundary layer.

However, if there is a significant loss occuring in the turn up to the carb, generating just the right vortex could definitely solve that problem. Short of lots of CFD and flow testing, it'll take a lot of "guess and check" experimentation, but it might work.

There is another problem with adding a second tube. You now have three directions that air can go. All kinds of interesting things can happen with that especially once you slow down. Having an alternate air source would probably be a good idea if you're going to test a dual flowpath inlet.
 
I hadn't thought of the boundary layer

keen9a said:
You're initial idea with the multiple tubes is probably going to be a negative. There are two ways to lower the pressure of the incoming air: turning it, and running it past a surface (increasing boundary layer). Multiple tubes will add lots of boundary layer.

However, if there is a significant loss occuring in the turn up to the carb, generating just the right vortex could definitely solve that problem. Short of lots of CFD and flow testing, it'll take a lot of "guess and check" experimentation, but it might work.

There is another problem with adding a second tube. You now have three directions that air can go. All kinds of interesting things can happen with that especially once you slow down. Having an alternate air source would probably be a good idea if you're going to test a dual flowpath inlet.

Great input! I never thought of the boundary layer effect when I started thinking about tubes to give uniform direction to the flow. I'm glad you found the vortex idea interesting. I'll keep toying with it.

Bob Axsom
 
Guide Vanes and air Flow splitters

Bob Axsom said:
Great input! I never thought of the boundary layer effect when I started thinking about tubes to give uniform direction to the flow. I'm glad you found the vortex idea interesting. I'll keep toying with it.

Bob Axsom
Consider flow guides or "guide vanes". VG's (vortex generators) intentionally trip the boundry layer to "re-energize" it and promote laminar flow down stream.

Where the flow guide comes in is as an air box diverges you get or can get turbulence. Well you can install little guides that basically help promote the expansion of the air in a duct.

The max wall divergence is about 7 degrees (let just say that). If the surface is curved you can get away with more divergence.

In Vans air box where it goes from snorkel part to the round portion (where the filter is) there is a fairly abrupt curve there. Its unavoidable because of the envelope we are talking about. Like I said if you had an ideal "trumpet" duct it would be many many feet long.

Well how does the guild vane work? It is not like a VG. In the top and bottom of the air box duct you have several fins or guides. The look like VG's but they are more aligned with the airflow. The center ones in the middle, top and bottom, say an 1/2 inch tall, are straight. Going out from the center guide on each side, more guide vanes are added but are angled out progressively at greater angle to "guide" the air out towards the side wall of the duct. With guide vanes you can actually have a duct that diverges at greater angles but still maintains laminar flow in the duct. The problem is our ducts are so small and compact this may not really help. One thing you can do is elongate the whole airbox. I am doing this a little in that my Van's air box and scoop are a little longer than stock. Its and effort to make a smaller inlet area and also reduce the transition from the scoop to the "box" part with the filter.

In the center right in front of the filer you could put a wedge or "airflow splitter" to guide some air around the air box to each side. Other wise air is just slamming into the front facing part of the filter.

This is all internal flow control, but what is the POINT? Well if you can use the air you take in more efficiently you may be able to use a smaller scoop inlet area. So internal flow control gets more air flow with less (internal) drag so you can use a smaller inlet. The smaller the in-let the less external drag.

There is also chance you will also get more pressure recovery, e.g., more engine manifold pressure at fast speeds. A 1/2 hp extra means a few 1/10's more mph. Add more HP to less external (scoop) drag, if you modify your scoop to have a smaller inlet, it may net a 1/2 mph?​

As Kent Paser found intake scoop inlet 10% larger than than the carb throat was ideal (for him). The MS-4-5 carb throat on my O-360 is 3.125" dia. That is 7.67 sq-in. So for 10% more area the area should be 8.44 " sq or 3.28 inch dia. I am using a modified inlet that is 3.125" dia with a smooth bell mouth going to 2.625" dia than smoothly expanding back out to the air filter in a modified Van's FAB. So I am actually about the same as the carb throat, slightly smaller. I am sure at +200 mph I will get all the air I need, but the benifit is less external drag.
 
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The use of vanes

George, The use of vanes in a race only substitute induction did occur to me and that appears to be a lower drag approach than the tubes I mentioned earlier. Your system sounds like you have given it a lot of thought and the performance will be eagerly awaited. One limitation of the "A" model is the nose gear strut support structure. The stock airbox actually interfered with that structure in my plane and During the construction I had the cut off the lower rear corner of the box and reclose it with a angled fiberglass surface.

I have a semi-difficult task ahead of me to bring the last baffle surface I added in the lower cowl from its current truncation in front of the nose gear down to the lower trailing edge of the cowl outlet so there will be a lot of thought time available before commiting to an induction mod approach.

Bob Axsom
 
gmcjetpilot said:
Consider flow guides or "guide vanes". VG's (vortex generators) intentionally trip the boundry layer to "re-energize" it and promote laminar flow down stream. \
George, your mixing up the term laminar flow with attached flow. The phrase "trip the boundary layer" refers to the transition from laminar to turbulent flow. You put VGs in to get turbulent flow that stays attached to the surface.

For those less familiar with our terms, attached flow stays smooth and parallel the the surface its travelling along. When flow separates it forms eddies, flows in various directions, and becomes very turbulent.

Its really not possible to keep laminar flow very far into a diffuser, but its not really desirable easier because laminar flow separates easier than turbulent flow.

You still want to turn flow in your intake as gently as possible to get good pressure recovery. Even without separating, the flow loses energy whenever you turn it.
 
Roger that

keen9a said:
George, your mixing up the term laminar flow with attached flow. The phrase "trip the boundary layer" refers to the transition from laminar to turbulent flow. You put VGs in to get turbulent flow that stays attached to the surface.
Thanks Ben for the correction. Fair enough. This is the definition I looked up for VG's, think I got it now:

VG's provide vortices's that energize the boundary layer. The purpose of the generators is to stick out of the stagnant air near the surface of the wing, and into the freely moving air outside the boundary layer. The VG mixes the free stream with the stagnant air to get it moving again, providing considerably more airflow at the rear of the wing and thereby providing the control surfaces with more power. This process is typically referred to as re-energizing the boundary layer. Vortex generators increase drag and delay separation and stall effects.

I agree you can't keep laminar flow in a diffuser or duct. The guide vane idea is just to allow larger wall divergence with less turbulence. Laminar flow is not the idea just less wholesale turbulent flow. No turbulence flow or laminar flow is unlikely as you say. The long part of vans airbox where it transitions to the filter area could be a little more gradual? That radius is where it gets wider is where I see turbulant flow, as well as where is the air runs into the filter (my guess).

Personally I think there is little we can do to help but getting more air to the back 180 degrees of the air filter would be nice. A little plow or "V-ee" separator might not hurt to get the air to start to move out and around the filter with less turbulance. Van's box is pretty good but may be there's some improvements to be had.

Here is what I was thinking:
 
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Another Idea

For general flying I will just use the Standard air box that I'm flying with now. I would replace it for the AirVenture Cup Race as I said if I can come up with a faster design. Leaving the cowl as is externally for the 2007 race at least, another idea comes to mind. Smoothly reduce the cross sectional area just aft of the inlet, then incease it dramatically to a large cross section, then smoothly reduce it again to cross sectional area of the carb entrance forming a relatively large accumulator, then smoothly turn it and spin it into the carb throat. The idea is to accellerate the air coming into the system and hold enough in the accumulator to provide a relatively steady preasure source of induction air and spin it to overcome turbulant air resistance to the carbutetor ingestion of the air. Concepts are easy of course. Implementation requires work ... but I have time.

Bob Axsom
 
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Air box

Bob, will you post pictures of your air box mods when you do make the changes as some of us would like to see your work and the results. :) AJ
 
Bob,

I guess I had missed most of this conv.... This isn't a Lycoming and so ymmv, but Rob Logan who races xcountry in his Lancair legacy has done a bunch around "ram air" and how to get it, and what it does if you aren't ready for it.

Here are more of his threads. Cont's use top induction and tuned induction, so this may or may not be applicable to what you are doing, but food for thot. Especially the ram air effects on injectors if running FI.

http://lancair.net/lists/lml/Message/23071.html
http://lancair.net/lists/lml/Message/22642.html
 
Sure will but ...

rv969wf said:
Bob, will you post pictures of your air box mods when you do make the changes as some of us would like to see your work and the results. :) AJ

It will be a while before I go into it as far as design/cut&try/etc. but as always there are no secrets here. I appreciate the exchange of information and I will do the pro stock dragster search you recommended before cutting metal.

Bob Axsom
 
Bob Axsom said:
Has anyone done, or know of, an experiment to eliminate the air filter from the induction air path, in flight or on the ground, to determine its effect on power and speed? What was done and what were the results?

Bob Axsom


Bob,
I'm in the camp of 'leave the filter in', but slow the air down and use one with enough surface area.

http://www.n91cz.com/airbox/airbox.htm

I was able to get pretty close to the area suggested by K&N at full rpm @ SL (take-off condition). At anything above SL and at cruise rpm, filter losses are in the noise.
Chris
 
gmcjetpilot said:
As Kent Paser found intake scoop inlet 10% larger than than the carb throat was ideal (for him). The MS-4-5 carb throat on my O-360 is 3.125" dia. That is 7.67 sq-in. So for 10% more area the area should be 8.44 " sq or 3.28 inch dia. I am using a modified inlet that is 3.125" dia with a smooth bell mouth going to 2.625" dia than smoothly expanding back out to the air filter in a modified Van's FAB. So I am actually about the same as the carb throat, slightly smaller. I am sure at +200 mph I will get all the air I need, but the benifit is less external drag.

George,
You can calculate the potentail ram recovery as the dynamic pressure of the speed difference between your air speed and volume consumed by the engine (converted to velocity using your inlet diameter). Once a certain diameter is reached there are diminishing and eventually negative returns. Purely mathematically a 3 inch diameter seemed about right for a 360. It isn't that far off from the Kent Paser number above either.
Chris
 
It opens up the mind a bit.

N91CZ said:
Bob,
I'm in the camp of 'leave the filter in', but slow the air down and use one with enough surface area.

http://www.n91cz.com/airbox/airbox.htm

I was able to get pretty close to the area suggested by K&N at full rpm @ SL (take-off condition). At anything above SL and at cruise rpm, filter losses are in the noise.
Chris

I have read your page linked above. The plot thickens. The area where you have the large filter is where the cross over exhaust pipes route in my cowl so I will have to use a different configuration (unless the exhaust system is changed) but your actual results and thoughts are a big help.

Bob Axsom
 
Filter effect

The Lycoming O-235 spec shows that the induction pressure drop through the carb venturi is 1.5" at sea level, and about 1.2" at 10k'. My induction inlet has 2 sq. in area, then widens out to go through a horizontal 10" by 4" K-N filter. This filter has a nose-gear operated bypass, so that when the gear retracts, the bypass opens. With the bypass open, air still flows through the filter. When the bypass opens on takeoff, I see no change in MAP. Your MAP should show the sum of static pressure and dynamic pressure or total pressure, minus the venturi drop and any restriction. At 10k', standard pressure and temperature, the static pressure is 20.57", at 200 mph TAS the dynamic pressure is 1.07", so the total pressure is 21.64". With a 1.2" venturi drop, you should see 20.44" MAP with no duct loss. I usually see about 0.2" less.
 
elippse said:
The Lycoming O-235 spec shows that the induction pressure drop through the carb venturi is 1.5" at sea level, and about 1.2" at 10k'. My induction inlet has 2 sq. in area, then widens out to go through a horizontal 10" by 4" K-N filter. This filter has a nose-gear operated bypass, so that when the gear retracts, the bypass opens. With the bypass open, air still flows through the filter. When the bypass opens on takeoff, I see no change in MAP. Your MAP should show the sum of static pressure and dynamic pressure or total pressure, minus the venturi drop and any restriction. At 10k', standard pressure and temperature, the static pressure is 20.57", at 200 mph TAS the dynamic pressure is 1.07", so the total pressure is 21.64". With a 1.2" venturi drop, you should see 20.44" MAP with no duct loss. I usually see about 0.2" less.

Hi Paul... Nice to see another Lancair flyer in the mix with the RV guys.... For those curious, he's the brain behind the elippse's propellers and a heck of a aero-engineer :)....

Couldn't resist when I saw that login name!
 
Well stated

elippse said:
This filter has a nose-gear operated bypass, so that when the gear retracts, the bypass opens. With the bypass open, air still flows through the filter. When the bypass opens on takeoff, I see no change in MAP.
When the gear retracts? :eek: :D O-235 and retractable nose gear? (LongEz, VariEz) What are you flying?
elippse said:
Your MAP should show the sum of static pressure and dynamic pressure or total pressure, minus the venturi drop and any restriction. At 10k', standard pressure and temperature, the static pressure is 20.57", at 200 mph TAS the dynamic pressure is 1.07", so the total pressure is 21.64". With a 1.2" venturi drop, you should see 20.44" MAP with no duct loss. I usually see about 0.2" less.
Excellent description of how it works. Thank you.
 
gmcjetpilot said:
When the gear retracts? :eek: :D O-235 and retractable nose gear? (LongEz, VariEz) What are you flying?
Excellent description of how it works. Thank you.

Hi George, I believe Paul flies a Lancair 235 - a pretty tweaked out one with a funky looking, but very effective Elippse's prop (either 3 or 4 blade).
 
Wade,

Excellent article. You should have seen the Elippse's prop that the biplane winner at Reno last year had on it. It was a 4 blader and it looked awesome. Not ot mention, that little engine and biplane was *wicked* fast!
 
Tornado Fuel Saver

Hey Bob, put one of these www.tornadofuelsaver.com in your airbox and tell us if it works or not. Something to play with. I've never installed one of these on a car/truck or airplane so I don't know if they work or not. Give it a try, who knows it might work. Might even help out your fuel economy as advertised. AJ :D
 
Almost like what I was describing

rv969wf said:
Hey Bob, put one of these www.tornadofuelsaver.com in your airbox and tell us if it works or not. Something to play with. I've never installed one of these on a car/truck or airplane so I don't know if they work or not. Give it a try, who knows it might work. Might even help out your fuel economy as advertised. AJ :D

It certainly is interesting.

Bob Axsom
 
You know...

One of my mech engineer buddies told me about the electric motors they have now for models. You do have to pause and think about it.

Bob Axsom
 
Induction Inlet diameter

The way I sized my induction inlet is to calculate the induction requirements based on displacement, design rpm, and design TAS. I calculate the required flow in ft^3/sec, then divide this by the design TAS in ft/sec.; this gives the inlet area, ft^2. Convert this to in^2, add 25%, then determine the inlet's linear dimensions. This isn't exact, but it's probably a good estimate. Too many inlets I've seen are much, much larger than necessary, adding lots of drag. You can use the same approach for the engine-cooling and oil-cooling inlets. The Lycoming spec for the O-320D cooling air requirement is 1.15 to 1.4 lb/sec at .51 BSFC for SL 160 hp 500F CHT, or altitude 120 hp 435F CHT. This value could be expanded slightly to lower CHTs to a better 390F, but having an efficient cooling system, with, say, the cylinders wrapped with fibreglass all the way around from a top opening to a bottom opening to keep the air in intimate contact with the fins, having rolled edges on the cylinder baffle bottoms to keep the flow from separating over the edges, providing a low resistance, rounded-edges path for the air to exit the cowling, minimizing leaks from the plenum, etc., can reduce this. My O-235, with 9.7:1 CR, produces about 125 hp. My inlets are 4" X 1.5" for a total inlet area of 12 sq. in. That works out to about 1.37 lb/sec at 10k' , 200 mph TAS vs the Lycoming O-235 spec of 1.55 to 1.7 lb/sec at 10k', +21C, 435F CHT. It still runs too cool! The graph for my SW 10578B oil cooler shows about 20 lb/min in the center of the curve. It's really important to get manufacturers data for proper sizing of inlets. Don't let the simple math scare you! And please, no submerged, curved-divergent (NACA) ducts unless you really understand their characteristics!
 
elippse said:
And please, no submerged, curved-divergent (NACA) ducts unless you really understand their characteristics!
Paul, I have seen you make this statement before, on the Lancair list. Are there any places (internet) we can go to learn and study and really understand their characteristics?

Thanks,
 
Well I did not say it but thought it many times

Nuisance said:
Paul, I have seen you make this statement before, on the Lancair list. Are there any places (internet) we can go to learn and study and really understand their characteristics?

Thanks,
I am not sure what Paul meant but I can tell you people make NACA scoops by eye ball (even commercially purchased ones) with out any of the proper critical details. If you read old NACA submerged inlets (scoop) reports there are critical details like, edges, lips, contours and aspect ratios that need to be sized properly (length, width, depth, edge radius, contour shapes). Most of time these are ignored in practice.

Many times the length to depth is ratio, is often wrong or compromised because there is not enough room, so they make it "look good" and size it to fit the space to mount it, not the needed air flow. For a given inlet size NACA scoop get very long. Most of the time the dimensions are compromised to make it fit.

click

You see NACA scoops in the hoods of some cars? The speeds are so low the drag reduction if any is questionable, especially with the shape and length. The stock Viper scoop is just a straight sided scoop and probably works just fine.

Paul may have a totally different outlook on it, but that is what I have seen.

For example Van stock NACA cabin vent scoop is a joke if you look at the specs and characteristics NACA originally specified. Yes it works but it is neither efficient or necessarily low drag for the amount of air you can get out of it. The lip over the inlet should be three dimensional with a radius and contour for example (not flat sheet metal).

A cool example of a NACA inlets I've seen are on jets for the "pack" inlets. Packs are the air-conditioning and pressurization "air-cycle machines" used for cabin air on jets. (Piston planes use the engine turbocharger for cabin pressurization.) The NACA scoop in some of these "pack" inlet applications also have variable geometry, ramps and doors which move based on aircraft speed and configuration. Its all automatic.

Our RV's have a big bump sticking out for the cowl exit air scoop. The RV cowls are contoured around the lower vertical induction and cowl exit air (reverse) scoop, so adding a forward facing intake scoop (like we have) makes sense. Can could have recessed the belly and fire wall but did not. No doubt a tunnel cut into the firewall and belly for exit air would have been more aerodynamic, but it would make the firewall and belly structure more complicated (heavy, costly and compromise 12 other things).

30.jpg


The Lopresti uses a NACA scoop for his Grumman's (Tiger and Cheetah) cowls. The Cheetah puts the NACA scoop on the curve portion of the fwd lower cowl. It really looks like a big square opening when you look at it at first. I don't see the "ramp" portion doing much. Not sure if NACA did research on curved surfaces. It works to some degree no doubt. I'm sure Lopresti did his homework. The Cheetah fwd NACA scoop looks pretty before the square HOLE. The pretty shape before the inlet does not look like its doing much, but it looks good. For the size of that inlet the NACA scoop should be much longer. There is just no room for longer. That probably would be the case with RV's.

aa5a-cowl.jpg
aa5a-naca.jpg


A NACA inlet for a RV, if sized properly would be long and put the outlet inside the cowl way aft, so extra hoses and ducts would be needed (with losses) to route the air to the vertical induction.

Now some Lycs (O360A4K on the Grumman Tiger) have rear fed induction sumps, so the NACA scoop might work better, but that engine would not fit in RV's. I have seen NACA scoops on the side of cowls using the O360A4K, one on a Mustang II and the other on Lopresti's Grumman Tiger. Not sure how well they work with the corkscrew airflow around the plane. The side scoop on the Tiger makes sense because internal ducting needed to get air to the rear facing carb is not too long.

tigercowl.jpg
aa5bco1.jpg


Just because a scoop is flush does not mean air is not spilling out and causing drag. This side scoop looks massive. The Lopresti cowls are no doubt better than the stock Grumman cowls they replace but also more complicated. Remember the keep it simple motto. In aviation and engineering the KISS method is often the best way to go. Please don't take this as a slight against the late Roy Lopresti, who knew more about aircraft design than most people. He's on my long list of top designers, which has people people like Kelly Johnson and Jack Northrop on it.

My pet peeve against the NACA scoop is its not the best scoop for all jobs and is rarely executed or designed properly. Research on using NACA scoops for jet fighter engine intake was tried a handful of decades ago. What kind of scoop do you see modern fighters we have today? No NACA scoops are found for these applications. (I heard the B2 stealth bomber or F117 stealth fighter have some kind of submerged engine inlet or exit? Don't know? I don't have top secret clearance. :rolleyes: )

When I see a NACA scoop they rarely look engineered. They look like it was copied from another application or made to look like a NACA scoop, fitted in available space (probably too small) for the purpose and done more for style points. When they are used they have to be designed and optimized for the application and purpose intended. Does not mean they can't be done right, just its not easy. The NASA reports on flush or submerged scoops are available on-line. There 100's of great reports on all kinds of inlets and ducts. The real problem is getting the research and practical to match. Often (almost always) we don't have the room to make it perfect so good enough and compramise is needed. The trick or tallent is making good compramises.

Ref:
NACA Report No. 713, Internal Flow System for Aircraft; Rogallo. 1940.

NACA Advance Confidential Report No. 5120, An Experimental Investigation of NACA Submerged-Duct Entrances. Frick et al. 1945.

NACA Research Memorandum No. A8B16. An Experimental Investigation of NACA Submerged Inlets at High Subsonic Speeds. I -- Inlets Forward of the Wing Leading Edge. Hall and Barclay. 1948.
 
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FYI:
The F-117 does not have a submerged inlet duct. Merely a screen over the intake to block radar waves and a spring loaded "blow in door" that is opened when running on the ground.

As I understand it, NACA ducts are good at taking air on board with low drag (when properly done of course) but since they operate in the boundary layer air they are "..very poor devices for pressure recovery..". SO, it would seem that they would not be the be best choice for induction air.


PS. elippse I sent you a private message
 
Top secret

RV8RIVETER said:
FYI:
The F-117 does not have a submerged inlet duct. Merely a screen over the intake to block radar waves and a spring loaded "blow in door" that is opened when running on the ground.
Right the fan on the front of the jet engine is a real good radar reflector and a big challenge to make low radar signature. Hope that is not top secret info RV8RIVETER! :eek: :rolleyes: Knock knock at the door, men in black, where is RV8RIVETER? ha ha
 
OOPS!

gmcjetpilot said:
Right the fan on the front of the jet engine is a real good radar reflector and a big challenge to make low radar signature. Hope that is not top secret info RV8RIVETER! :eek: :rolleyes: Knock knock at the door, men in black, where is RV8RIVETER? ha ha

I hope so too! :eek: It has been "white" for quite a while now. It is amazing the things you see in a "black" world. I remember one time........ On second thought I never said anything. In fact I was never even here. :cool:
 
NACA duct

That was a great treatise you posted, GMCJETPILOT! Thanks! You really hit at all the salient points! I have RMA7130 on the submerged ducts; the parallel wall, the straight-divergent wall, and the curved-divergent wall, which is the one referred to as the "NACA duct". These ducts are rated on the pressure recovery at various V1/V0 ratios, the ratio of the duct velocity, V1, to the free-stream velocity V0. The PW has best recovery at 0.7 with 0.8 recovery, the SD at 0.43 to 0.55 with 0.860 to 0.845 recovery, and the CD at 0.4 with 0.865 recovery. I really like the PW since its best aperture is with a w/d ratio of 1 which opens into a circular duct quite well. I use 1/4" square PWs for my three tank vent inputs, which transition into 1/4" tubes, since the flush inlets are not supposed to fill with water in rain and freeze over. One of the Sport racers which uses a CD on the side of the fuselage for cabin air got almost no flow. I had him install a pair of triangular VGs, toed-in, right ahead of the start of the ramp. He got so much flow he had to close them down! Peter Garrison commented on the CD duct in his "Technicalities" column in Flying a while back. He pretty much said that a forward-pointing opening is probably best for overall use and pressure recovery. Now really troops, how much difference is there between 0.865 and 0.8? +8%!!! I have a 1" diameter hole at the base of my windshield just before it starts its upward curve for cabin air. It flows so much that most of the time I have my cabin outlets closed. It even flows well on the ground at about 1100 rpm with my unusual prop which doesn't push much air at low or zero forward speed. I also have a cabin air OUTLET at the top of the cabin just behind the canopy; very important to get airflow across your body and up past your head. By the way, most of the time your cabin is at slightly less than static pressure. The pressure at the tail of the fuselage is close to static, so not only does air not flow out the tail end, it often flows IN! If you've seen pictures of my plane you'll see that my inlets violate all popular beliefs. My induction is 2 sq in half-oval right in line with bottom of the spinner, my cooling inlets are 4" by 1.5" close-up to the spinner, and my oil cooler inlet is a little streamlined duct at the back-right of the cowl with 2" by 1" opening. I am always asked about it: "Why didn't you use a NACA duct?"
 
I just designed an external inlet, 2" wide by 1" high, as an experiment, to take the place of a "NACA" duct used for one of the two inter-cooler cooling inlets; the pilot reported such an increase of air-flow over the other duct that it was mind-boggling! This same person had "NACA" ducts for cabin air inlets and was getting almost no flow, I had him install two small VGs, about 1" long and 1/2" high, right in front of the beginning of the duct ramp, angled inward at the forward edges. The resulting air about blew him out of the cabin. 'Course, this is at well over 350 mph!