chrispratt

Well Known Member
I'm curious if any other RV-8 flyers with the normally aspirated engine cowl have encountered this problem. I have the Lycoming O-360 engine with Van's FAB 360 air box. At about 150 hours, I noticed a slight crack in the exterior paint on the lower cowl air intake section (left side).

When I looked inside the cowling I saw four small round indentations in the heat shield material I had stuck to the cowling (see image).



It was obvious that the rivet heads on the air box nearest the cowling had impacted and caused this. I never saw this before the 150 hour point and I remove the cowl every 25 hours and check for stuff like this.

My solution was to drill out the four rivets that were at the apex of the curve in the air box and replace them with countersunk rivets. The thought was that the smooth heads would have less exterior depth. After another 25 hours of flight, I removed the cowl and I still noticed some indentations in the new heat shield (replaced after the last inspection) although the indents were not as prominent. Not sure what's causing this. Someone suggested that it may be happening when the engine does its "wet dog shake" on shutdown. Certainly possible. I'm still monitoring and will update when I figure out the cause, or better yet, the solution.

I would appreciate hearing from anyone else who may have experienced this and if they have a solution. Thanks.

Chris
 
Yup!

Chris, I had a carbon-copy experience to yours - got the cracks in the paint, saw the three rivets that were hitting, replaced them with flush rivets, and had Grady re-paint the cowl. That was probably 350 hours ago, and the paint has been fine ever since. I think I am still getting a little contact, but since there are no tiny contact points, it doesn't seem to be a problem. the real solution would be to remake the airbox, but I'd rather not do that, as it does not seem to be necessary. I would recommend to anyone who is still building their FAB to pay more attention to the cowl clearance on the left side and bias the FAB to the right.

Paul
 
Chris,
I don't know if it applies, (I have a 7A), but I built
my FAB too close to the left side of the cowl to
compensate for the 'wet dog shake". I also picked
up the problem by seeing indentations in the foil.
My FAB was hitting a little lower from the rivets then
yours. My fix was to shorten the radius on the left
side of the FAB. I cut some fiberglass off and reglassed
it about 1/2" farther away frow the cowl. I also had to
modify the aluminum top of the FAB. The mounting
nutplates still worked O.K., but it was close as I
remember it.

I hope this is some help,
Tom
 
Chris, I had a carbon-copy experience to yours - got the cracks in the paint, saw the three rivets that were hitting, replaced them with flush rivets... the real solution would be to remake the airbox, but I'd rather not do that, as it does not seem to be necessary.

Paul

Thanks Paul. Like you, I'd rather not rebuild the airbox (major pain to build the first time, as you know). It hasn't seemed to get worse since I put the flush rivets in, but perhaps that's wishful thinking. I'll leave well enough alone for now (I haven't repainted until I'm convinced that the new arrangement won't cause more cracking). I appreciate the input.

Chris
 
Chris,
I don't know if it applies, (I have a 7A)...My fix was to shorten the radius on the left side of the FAB. I cut some fiberglass off and reglassed it about 1/2" farther away frow the cowl. I also had to modify the aluminum top of the FAB. The mounting nutplates still worked O.K., but it was close as I remember it.

I hope this is some help,
Tom

Tom:

Thanks very much. If I see it still being a problem after a few more 25-hour checks I may do that. In fact I hadn't thought about reducing the radius of the top aluminum piece but that would work. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you know what happens.

Chris
 
I thought I would have that problem when I put it all together, so I ordered a new plate from Vans, and sort of built an adapter using the old plate mounted to my carb, cut back and rivited with an offset to the new plate attached to the airbox. That gave me equal distance on each side, and did not require a comlplete rework of the box.

No problems! Actually, it was my hangar mate sticking his finger up in there from the bottom and saying these are too close! that got my attention. Vans shoud really offer a plate with the hole offset for folks to use. Who would have thought that the carb was not exactly in the middle!

cheers
 
Made a new mounting plate

I would appreciate hearing from anyone else who may have experienced this and if they have a solution. Thanks.
Chris

Here is how mine looked using the original FAB mounting plate:

airboxclearance1-w.jpg



So I ordered a piece of 063 sheet and made a new mounting plate from scratch -- with the holes offset so the airbox sits as far to the right as it can go.

airboxclearance3-w.jpg


Now I have a lot more clearance. 50 hours so far and no rubbing.
 
Just wanted to reinforce what the others have said... the proper solution is to fabricate a new custom top plate to offset the FAB a bit more to the right. Click this link for a pic of how far I needed to offset mine. Plenty of clearance now, works great.
 
Just wanted to reinforce what the others have said... the proper solution is to fabricate a new custom top plate to offset the FAB a bit more to the right. Click this link for a pic of how far I needed to offset mine. Plenty of clearance now, works great.

Thanks for the pic Randy. I checked mine again yesterday and since changing the outermost rivets to countersunk the problem seems to have abated. But I'll keep monitoring and may remake the mount anyway. One of those wintry day projects.

Chris
 
Just wanted to reinforce what the others have said... the proper solution is to fabricate a new custom top plate to offset the FAB a bit more to the right. Click this link for a pic of how far I needed to offset mine. Plenty of clearance now, works great.

Ditto here. Built a new one around 700 hours or so, after getting tired of the FAB beating up the cowl. It is a classic problem. Those building should junk the plate that comes with the kit, and make a new one. It shouldn't take much offset, maybe 1/4" or so. Might require thinking about alignment with the snout.
 
Randy,

When you offset your FAB, did it line up alright with the air intake?
When you build a new top plate to offset it further to the right you will aim the inlet of the fab at the air intake on the cowl so it will line up perfectly. Actually better because the fab nose is approaching the cowl inlet more directly, less of an angle.
 
Is this an 8 problem or something to expect on the 7A also? I'm approaching this stage next month.

Jekyll