L

larry G

I'm New Here
I'm working on clecoing the leading edge skin and the trailing edge skin to the spar to match drill. I come across the problem of the spar has quite a curve to it. I can cleco the top fine but the bottom when I pull the leading edge back to the spar it makes the curve worse. I cant line up the holes. Do I have to flute the spar or is this not good thing to do.:confused:
aileronsparjb7.jpg
 
larry G said:
I'm working on clecoing the leading edge skin and the trailing edge skin to the spar to match drill. I come across the problem of the spar has quite a curve to it. I can cleco the top fine but the bottom when I pull the leading edge back to the spar it makes the curve worse. I cant line up the holes. Do I have to flute the spar or is this not good thing to do.:confused:
aileronsparjb7.jpg
Click to expand...

What airplane are you building, Larry? Are you saying that the spar is warped, even before you attach anything to it? That doesn't sound right...Van's does make reject parts on occasion...
 
Try starting with clecos at one end (top and bottom if nessesary), and pull the spar into alignment as you go. And don't flute.

This keeps everything straight as you proceed, as well as a bit of leverage to move the spar end fore & aft until holes line up.

L.Adamson -- RV6A
 
Aileron Spar

Larry G.

I reviewed my log entries and I don't recall having the curve in the spar shown in your picture. Everything fit and was straight. No pulling of components into alignment....

I am with L. Adamson and I wouldn't flute the spar. Not without having a Q&A session with Van's....
 
I had this.

When I built my first aileron on my 6, very similar aileron to the 7, this happened to me because it was sitting on the bench and I assumed it would stay straight as I tucked it in and drilled the holes. WRONG?

When I took it out to de-burr the spar went back to straight but the holes were in a curve.

Silly me, I should have known better than to make any assumptions.

When the new spar came in I REMEMBERED to use my edge distance marking tool that I made to accurately mark the cent line of the spar.

It is a piece of wood with a super fine sharpie and an adjustable stop.

I marked two lines about 1/16" apart in different colors.

You may not actually be drilling in the exact center of the spar, but with the marks you will get a very good idea if its straight as you go

My second attempt came out straight and beautiful.

I am glad I messed up early in the game as it helped me be more patient and careful with the resat of my project as I still go along.:)
 
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