IowaRV9Dreamer

IowaRV9Dreamer

Well Known Member
OK - I need a little help to get started building my engine. It and the cowl are pretty much all that remain on my plane.

I bought an O-320-E2A (150 HP) engine in pieces. The following parts were yellow tagged in 2007:

From Central Cylinder:
  • Connecting Rods - listed as repaired
  • 7 rocker arms - listed as repaired
  • accessory case - listed as repaired. teste
  • crankcase - listed as repaired, tested
  • "Misc Steel Parts" - listed as magnafluxed
The magnaflux sheet lists crankcase, 4 connecting rods, 2 idler gears, 2 idler shafts, 2 mag drive gears, oil pump drive, 8 pushrods, 8 rocker arms, and a fuel pump plunger, all passing.

From Aircraft Specialties Services:
  • 8 Hydraulic Units - listed as cleaned, inspected, and overhauled
  • Camshaft - listed as reconditioned and repaired
  • Crankshaft - listed as Magnafluxed, Inspected, Ground Rod 0 Mains M003, Renitrided, Cad Plated and Baked Flange, Flange Repaired per SB 201E, Installed Sludge Tubes, Installed Dowel Pin, Reapired per SI 1111. Repaired in accordance with SB505 (whew)

My plan is to assemble the engine without cylinders, mount it on the airframe, and add (probably new) 160 HP cylinder assemblies after the cowl is done. The engine takes the large front bearing, I'm pretty sure.

I've watched a couple of DVDs, attended the Lycoming assembly / disassembly course, and have some A&P friends. Here are my questions

  1. I have an electronic copy of the Lycoming Direct Drive Overhaul manual, but its old (1974). Same for the Parts Catalog (1984). Looks like you have to buy the manual from "Tdata" now, for $299 (1 year update). Comes with overhaul manual, parts catalogs, and SI/SBs. Is this the thing to do? Here is their link: http://www.tdata.com/products-all/lycoming-manuals-all/lycoming-manuals-4-cylinder-engines.asp
  2. I need to buy bearings. Do I need to measure the crank to double check the sizes? Can I use my regular caliper or do I have to buy different tools (micrometer / dial bore gauge). I hate to buy tools to use once.
  3. Where is the best place to buy bearings, gaskets, hardware. Is there a hardware kit?

I may think of more questions and will post them here. Thanks for any info.
 
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You will start by getting M003 rod bearings, new rod bolts and nuts. Then install the rods per the manual. Standard main bearings installed in left case half next. You can then lay in the crank, left tappets, and cam. Both ECI and Superior have major gasket sets. Get that right away also. That way you'll have all the small stuff and you can lay it all out. Start thinking about really good rod covers if you plan to cowl without cylinders. Fiberglass dust will fry your new motor.
 
engine

I have used several sources for parts. Dart in Waco TX is my current favorite. The hardware is a real pain. Almost all the part numbers have changed, some several times. I believe both ECI and Superior use slightly different numbering systems for the nuts and bolts. I bought all the nuts and bolts piecemeal, there is at least one kit, but it had too many errors to suit me.
I chose to assemble the case with one half laying on its side. This is the way that the Lycoming school does it as opposed to nearly all the engine shops which do it with the crank mounted vertical. I made a very simple steel mount to hold the case half. The only downside to this is you have to be very careful that the two connecting rods on top do not rotate and hit the case.
Using a partially assembles engine to fit the cowl is a terrible idea. There is simply no way to keep the dirt out of the engine.
I will review my notes and see what I have for hardware list.
An option for the cowl is to buy a reject crankcase from one of the overhaul shops and use your crank with new bearings. They take it apart when the cowl is done and very carefully wash the crank and bearings. if you choose this method you can assemble the scrap case with just the front and rear bearings, leave out the center.
I have the old assembly manual and some notes, AD's and service bulletins.
One thing I struck out on was the assembly lubes that are specified in one of the Lyc service bulletins. After getting a very insulting run around from Lycoming I used red line assembly lube available from sources such as Summit Racing. This should not be used on the pistons/rings/cylinders, I used mineral oil there.
 
jrs14855 said:
Using a partially assembles engine to fit the cowl is a terrible idea. There is simply no way to keep the dirt out of the engine.
I will review my notes and see what I have for hardware list..
Click to expand...
I was hoping to use covers like this for the cylinders.
EM_TOPCAP.jpg


The only other hole in the engine might be on the bottom for the carb/fuel servo. I thought a red plug would work there.

I'd love to see your hardware list if you have it, thanks!
 
Call Lycoming for a current overhaul manual, their price is a lot better than that and you'll know it's up to date.

Good folks to deal with.

Dave
 
You can find everything you need to read online for free. Takes a lot of research but then what's your time worth? There are two issues of the superceded parts listings and both are good to have.

J&J Airparts were my best source for parts, price, service and they are nice folks. Sent out parts list to several outfits and they were the best.
 
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Engine Build

For less than $200 I bought a scrap crank and wide deck case. This engine mockup will be used for cowl fitting. I intend to sell it when I'm done and recover some of the costs.


Don B

RV 9 Rebuild in Progresss
 
I get most of my parts from Air Power. You can google them. Great people to deal with and good prices.
 
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