joedallas

joedallas

Well Known Member
Is there a photo of the mounted ADAHRS on any ones web site
Can I add nutplates to the Brackets before riveting them to the tailcone.

Thanks
 
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Yes, you can. The flange is a bit narrow, so you might bend it a bit, but not too bad and you can bend it back. I had originally installed the brackets without doing anything to them and then later realized how awkward it would be to install the ADAHRS in the back, fiddling with the unit, the screws and those metal lock nuts. Yesterday, I drilled it out and installed nutplates K1000-06 and put the brackets back in.
The only photo I have is from the original installation, not sure if that helps you.

IMG_7740.JPG


The link to the full post is here (including a link to a larger image). Picture is on the bottom of the post.
 
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Dynon says to use non magnetic fasteners which may have effect on the compass. I used stainless steel bolts
 
Hotscam said:
Dynon says to use non magnetic fasteners which may have effect on the compass. I used stainless steel bolts
Click to expand...

Definition of "experimental kit airplane builder"

A guy who comes up with a better way to do things and then later on finds out that there was a very good reason the plans/manual said to do it a different way. :D

Just kidding... but any time you deviate from the plans, I suggest you do a bunch of research to see if there might just be a specific reason it was done a specific way.
 
ADAHRS

Thanks MacPara

I think I will cut a piece of stainless steel to the size of the bottom of the C brackets and tap the holes in the stainless to the bolt size needed and double face tape them in place.

MacPara said:
Yes, you can. The flange is a bit narrow, so you might bend it a bit, but not too bad and you can bend it back. I had originally installed the brackets without doing anything to them and then later realized how awkward it would be to install the ADAHRS in the back, fiddling with the unit, the screws and those metal lock nuts. Yesterday, I drilled it out and installed nutplates K1000-06 and put the brackets back in.
The only photo I have is from the original installation, not sure if that helps you.

IMG_7740.JPG


The link to the full post is here (including a link to a larger image). Picture is on the bottom of the post.
Click to expand...
 
Not all stainless is "non magnetic" you must realize.
Now you got me worried about putting those big ol magnetic steel nutplates up there like that! I know others have had some real problems with the unit from magnetic steel located nearby. Think I will stick to the plans on this, and confine my experimenting to other areas.
 
Didn't think about the magnetometer in there. Another option would be to install the ADAHRS before riveting those brackets in. Plug up the threaded holes until the hoses get connected later.
 
You will have to do THIS anyway to connect the tubing...

IMG_7424.JPG


I found it easy to just apply the hardware in the plans.

And you will have to "assume the position" again if you ever need to remove it. Or maybe you can find a skinny kid that can get through the split bulkhead (see Modifications sticky) so you will not have to remove the tank...

The board was resting on foam padding.
 
non-magnetic fasteners and bracket installation

1) Curiously, I believe the provided mounting screws are (blackened) brass screws. but the associated nuts are still magnetic. A trial run through of the screws onto the nuts caused to of the four brass screws to shear off--soft little buggers--and had to replace them... I don't know why they didn't just specify the non-magnetic stainless screws we use all over the place.

2) If you live in dread fear of bolting these on whilst on your back in the tailcone, then bolt them onto the brackets before riveting the brackets to the tailcone.
 
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I suppose the question to be asked is why not use brass nuts? Suppose the steel nuts is a mistake in the plans?
I just might go get some brass nuts and solve the question.
 
ADAHRS

The reason for the question was the need to replace or service the ADAHRS in the future.
I talked to vans yesterday and asked if I could use nutplates and he said yes.
Then I asked about the magnetometer and he said that that could be a problem.
Then I asked about using 6061-T6 aluminum plate and taping holes and he said that should work.




DonFromTX said:
I suppose the question to be asked is why not use brass nuts? Suppose the steel nuts is a mistake in the plans?
I just might go get some brass nuts and solve the question.
Click to expand...
 
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SkyView ADAHRS for RV-7A

joedallas said:
Is there a photo of the mounted ADAHRS on any ones web site
Can I add nutplates to the Brackets before riveting them to the tailcone.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Joe,
I did not use nutplates or platenuts because they're magnetically attractive. Dynon sternly warns about keeping anything ferrous or magnetic outside of a 2 foot bubble.

Here's my homemade ADAHRS shelf, mounted in the roof just behind the baggage compartment wall:

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=scrollf4&project=879&category=0&log=147364&row=5

I used brass nuts/screws/washers (Ace Hardware) and aluminum adel clamps (Spruce). I had the same concern about accessibility you mentioned. Therefore, before I riveted this shelf in permanently, I cleco'd the top skin into place to see if I could get to the screws/nuts with an angle screwdriver and remove/install the ADAHRS. It wasn't a breeze, but it was reasonably achievable.

Hope it helps.
 
ADAHRS

:confused:

I don?t think that is possible in a 12 there is steel in all the rivets all around the ADAHRS
I hope it?s to small amount to cause a problem.
Thanks


scrollF4 said:
Joe,
Dynon sternly warns about keeping anything ferrous or magnetic outside of a 2 foot bubble.
Click to expand...
 
Top Tail Cone Skin

How far off the wall is this approach?

I am about to attach my tail cone without the top most skin installed.

When I do attach the top skin, what if I only rivit it up to about half way, progressing fron the tail forward. With all the static/pitot plumbing in place and wiring in place I could easily lift the skin, mount the ADAHRS, make the connections and finish riveting the top skin.

Workable?
 
I would think this should work better than crawling in. We did the top skin a couple months ago, and I wish we had waited for the ADAHRS. While there is a little bow in the skin, I would think it could be done, If not, you haven't lost anything, just assume the position...

Bob
 
A old Problem in a new light

The Garmin GMU 22 Magnetometer

I talked to Garmin team X and I was told to use non-ferrous nutplates around the GMU 22

I am installing the magnetometer in the wing as they recommend.
The access panel will require nutplates.

Does anyone know a good source for non-ferrous nutplates

15_05_11.jpg


See Page http://joesrv12.com/Builder Log/bl_15_05.htm

Thanks

Joe D
 
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Just a little advice. Mount the unit on the two ribs first, hook up the harness pitot and static and put a couple of clecos in the fuselage to hold it in place while you pop rivet it in place. Much easier.
 
Looking at the pictures.....did you install the stiffener kit upgrade for that area??? Some folks we're getting erratic action on there displays.
 
non-ferrous nutplates

Is this question directed to me


My ?

Does anyone know a good source for non-ferrous nutplates



Joe D


Phantom30 said:
Looking at the pictures.....did you install the stiffener kit upgrade for that area??? Some folks we're getting erratic action on there displays.
Click to expand...
 
Another method of mounting my be by using 1 mil 3M VHB double sided tape. This product is used in the commercial aviation industry for bonding metal surfaces together. Believe me, once bonded, you can't pull the parts apart. If necessary to unbond, you can slice it back with a razor blade and then remove simply by rubbing the sticky surface. Very expensive but it has a million uses.
 
non-magnetic nut plates

Here you go Joe, these are silver plated A286 cres. There is a lot of 100 listed on eBay now listing # 271978013946 but they are 10-32. The gent listing them said they would "not respond to a magnet at all". I could not find a MS35214 (plated brass) screw in 10-32 only 10-24 (-55) listed.
Jerry

MS21060-06 -- IS THE 6-32 PLATE NUT----

MS21060-06 Characteristics

MATERIAL: Nut and basket - A286 corrosion resistant steel per AMS 5255, or AMS 5732.

NOMINAL THREAD SIZE : 0.138 INCHES

THREAD QUANTITY PER INCH : 32

THREAD DIRECTION OF MS21060-06 : RIGHT-HAND

SURFACE TREATMENT : SILVER OVERALL

HARDNESS RATING : 49.0 ROCKWELL C MAXIMUM

NUT STYLE : A116 PLATE

NUT LENGTH : 0.948 INCHES MAX

NUT HEIGHT : 0.203 INCHES MAX

LOCKING FEATURE : PREVAILING TORQUE ALL METAL DESIGN

NUT MOUNTING PROVISION : STRAIGHT HOLES

TEMP RATING OF MS21060-06 : 800.0 DEG FAHRENHEIT

FEATURES PROVIDED : FLOATING NUT

NUT,SELF-LOCKING, 6-32
 
Thanks

I will use them for the access panel under the wing at the Garmin GMU 22 Magnetometer

15_05_11.jpg



Joe D




Marteck said:
Here you go Joe, these are silver plated A286 cres. There is a lot of 100 listed on eBay now listing # 271978013946 but they are 10-32. The gent listing them said they would "not respond to a magnet at all". I could not find a MS35214 (plated brass) screw in 10-32 only 10-24 (-55) listed.
Jerry

NUT,SELF-LOCKING, 6-32
Click to expand...
 
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