[dbaflyer]

I'm not wanting to make the floor completely removable as that is more work than I'm willing to go through. However I am fearful that one day my steps will crack and need repaired/replaced and I need access to the bolts that hold the step under the baggage floor.

I had this idea and wondered how smart it is to remove a small section of the floor. The plate is the VA-195D from vans. I would not try to make this flush with the existing floor, but place it on top. Using a couple screws along the rib and the rest of the screws under the baggage floor.

I'm just a bit worried about how flexible the floor might became after removing that piece. Is this a bad idea?

 

[Bob Axsom]

Of course not

I did it several years ago to make the steps removable for racing. My removable cover plates are smaller and I do have a carpet on the baggage floor but there is nothing to it and there is no risk. The steps are oh so convenient and the difference in speed is a fraction of a knot but I do remove them for racing since around 2008.

In this area of the modification I took a circular hole saw in an electric drill and made a entry/working hole in the floor in the approximate location of the bolt then I elongated it to what actual was necessary to facilitate removal and reinstallation. When I finished the hole I made a cover plate to overlap the edges I have a flat head screw at each end with two mating dimpled platenuts riveted to the baggage floor and I dimpled the baggage floor and cover plate of course. I repeated the process for the opposite step.

Bob Axsom

 

[OneCharlieKilo]

step access holes

I pulled the baggage compartment floor out on my -6A to repair cracked step on passenger side after discovering a crack around the 100 hour mark or so. Before reinstalling the floor panel, I cut access holes and cover plates so I won't have to pull the floor if it happens again. I installed reinforcement rings to maintain floor strength and keep the access plates flush. Haven't had any trouble with this fix and would do it during initial construction if building again.
Didn't post any good pictures of the access plates but pics of the step repair process are at:

http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/Fuselage/FuselagePage37.htm

and

http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/Fuselage/FuselagePage38.htm

 

[kevinh]

If removing to repair...

Hmm,

If I had to remove my steps to repair them - drilling out the pop rivets holding the whole floor panel in would probably be the easiest part of the repair.

I had to remove my floor a few years ago and I suspect it was <10 min to drill out all those pop rivets. Drilling out the solid rivets holding the step to the side is probably the biggest task.

(Of course if I was racing or had modified the step to not use rivets to the side skin, it would be a different matter)

 

[scard]

Chris, Thanks for the links to your repair. I'm getting ready to dive into the same repair on mine. I'll probably remove the floor, remove the step, make a non-flush access panel in the floor, and follow Bob with his screw re-installation.

 

[OneCharlieKilo]

Chris, Thanks for the links to your repair. I'm getting ready to dive into the same repair on mine. I'll probably remove the floor, remove the step, make a non-flush access panel in the floor, and follow Bob with his screw re-installation.

You're welcome Scott, good luck with your repair. I thought about screws too but decided not to mess with the nutplates. I do wish I had done what others have posted in other threads on this subject - meaning weld a reinforcement plate onto backside of the area that cracks. A little short-sighted I admit, but I wanted to get it back together for a trip and the welder didn't have any 4130 plate on hand so I just went with simple weld repair. Since it really wasn't as difficult as I had feared to remove it, I figured worst case was repeating that process again some day. Difference now though is that my plane wasn't painted yet when I did the repair, so I hope it lasts a while this time. But I expect to have to at least repair the pilot side one eventually (still looks good at 320 hours).

Hmm,

If I had to remove my steps to repair them - drilling out the pop rivets holding the whole floor panel in would probably be the easiest part of the repair.

I had to remove my floor a few years ago and I suspect it was <10 min to drill out all those pop rivets. Drilling out the solid rivets holding the step to the side is probably the biggest task.

(Of course if I was racing or had modified the step to not use rivets to the side skin, it would be a different matter)

I actually had a lot of trouble drilling out pop rivets because they would just spin with the drill, until I bought this blind rivet removal tool from Avery's:

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1341

Using the blind rivet removal tool, you're right Kevin, it was a quick and easy job to remove the floor panel, but still not as easy as a few screws holding a small access cover if I ever have to do it again. Plus I like having the access plates with ability to look under there at condition inspection time. I found that using the same tool on the round AN-470 rivet heads made the solid rivet drilling a very quick and easy task as well because it automatically keeps the drill bit centered and makes the depth you drill very controllable / repeatable. Sometimes the right tool makes all the difference.

 

[Bob Axsom]

I ordered the tool

I am rather sure it does not address the problem I have with them but another tool can't hurt. I read the instructions for removing the ones I use involving removing the stems, etc. We will see.

Bob Axsom

 

[NickAir]

boarding steps

The chrome on my boarding step as peeled off. Surprising and Discouraging.
Would have thought chrome would have lasted for decades? Wrong. Flexing from passengers boarding is the only thing I have figured could Delaminate the chrome, or the prop blasted a rock that compromised it or a combination of both. Lasted for 7 years.

Wondering:
1) should I remove boarding steps and re-chrome?
2) should I not bother removing and paint steps in place?
3) If painted, what type of finish would be toughest? Epoxy??

Appreciate any thoughts from others on the issue.