BSwayze

BSwayze

Well Known Member
I'm just curious, so I thought I'd post a question. For all of you who are building or flying an A-model RV, how did you finish your nosewheel fork? Or did you do anything with it at all?

I just pulled mine from inventory recently, and I've been assembling the nosewheel components. It looked a bit rough around the edges, so I spent some time with my scotchbrite pads and wheels, and some elbow grease, and cleaned it up considerably. Now I'm wondering if I should prime it? It seems to me that it would be a good idea, but I haven't seen much done to these. What did you do with yours?
 
Yes

Hey Bruce,

My fork also came pretty rough from the factory, and mine even had some signs of corrosion already forming, especially near the welds. So I too cleaned it up quite a bit, smoothed down rough edges, and removed all visible corrosion. And yes, then I primed it (Akzo epoxy primer) to prevent any further corrosion. Seemed like a good idea, and certainly couldn't hurt.

Oh, just one note comes to mind. When/if you do prime it, be sure to mask off the openings to the brass bushing, so that you don't contaminate the bushing surface with primer.
 
I sealed all the bearings and threads (including Zerk nut thread) and sandblasted the fork. Then coated with two-pack epoxy.


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The lightening holes in the flanges should be sealed as well. This is the hole that is completely surrounded by weld, and is at the right hand side of the photo in Bob's post. Bad place for water to get - between the parts and no where to go. I think I used JB weld, proseal would be better.
 
larrynew said:
EAA Hints for Homebuilder's video about torque seal and its use on bolt threads: http://bcove.me/6co7zy07
Click to expand...

Larry, thanks for that information. I had previously looked through AC43.13 for information on the correct application of torque seal but couldn't find anything. I guess it's not a subject they think is critical.

In the video above, the instructor talks about not getting torque seal on the threads of bolts because it can cause "rolling" of the threads. I guess he means that torque seal on the threads can cause extreme galling. I find that quite amazing. The torque seal I use is so brittle and has such low adhesion that I can generally dislodge bits of it with a fingernail. I've removed literally hundreds of fasteners with torque seal on the threads of the bolt and never had the slightest problem undoing the nut.

But still, it can't hurt to run the torque seal strip from the nut back up onto the clamped surface so I may change my modus operandi.
 
Thank you, gentlemen, for the replies!

I went ahead and cleaned up my nosewheel fork over the weekend, and primed it with 2-part epoxy primer. I really appreciated the suggestion about sealing the inside of the lightening holes, too. That was bugging me, and seems obvious now. I'll seal it up when the primer is good and hard. I may even spray the whole thing with a topcoat, maybe glossy or even flat black. Even though it's inside the wheel pant, I don't care for the bright flourescent green-yellow primer!
 
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