Bob Axsom

Well Known Member
The hole in the top of the nose wheel fairing around the strut is bothersome to me from a drag perspective. It either lets air in from the top to cause drag or it provide a flow path through the fairing that causes drag. I plan to develop an aluminum and rubber seal to close the gap. has anyone else done this? If so what were the results?

Bob Axsom
 
Oooooh, I got this one!

It's my turn!

Get rid of the nosewheel!

Pitch it in nice and slow like that and SOMEONE is BOUND to hit is outta the park!

Sorry Bob, I am just in that kinda mood.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled programming.

:D CJ
 
Related Idea

link to picture
This is an in-progress picture of how I used the piece from Fairings Etc. on my Sam James nose wheel fairing. It's done and painted, but this shows it best. The finished version has more filler around the sides, closer to the leg fairing but allowing full turn left/right. I have no before-after data, but I was thinking about the same problem. I'm not sure an air seal would make much difference, but I "intuitively" felt that I wanted a smoother change in airflow direction from the wheel fairing to the leg fairing.
 
Oooooh, I got this one!

It's my turn!

Get rid of the nosewheel!

Pitch it in nice and slow like that and SOMEONE is BOUND to hit is outta the park!

Sorry Bob, I am just in that kinda mood.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled programming.

:D CJ
Naaaah!

All that does is move the drag farther aft.
 
You guys are a hard bunch

No respect. My wife and I went out to celebrate my 71st birthday anniversary and I come back to this. HA Ha - clever actually. The real inputs look good. You both were probably smarter than me and put this in your original build sequence so no before and after data. My idea is to sandwich 1/16" rubber between the inside of the fairing and an aluminum back plate. I will pick up two existing attach points at the fairing joint and add one in front of the strut. The rubber will make intimate contact with the strut all around. Tom Martin (EVO Rocket) of Ontario (Canada not California) has told me about the advantage of bridging the gap between the faring and the tire with rubber and I plan on having that in place by the Rocket 100 in Taylor, Texas on the 17th of November as well. My bench mark now in 177.8 kts at 6,000ft density altitude, WOT, max rpm (2700+), etc. I would like to get two tests in before the trip down to Taylor - one with the top hole sealed and one with the bottom gaps also closed.

Bob Axsom
 
Doors

Bob,
Since you're so ambitious, consider making doors that cover the wheelpants after takeoff. An engineer named Nick Jones made two pairs for his Cassutt wheelpants back in the seventies, for the Reno air races. The doors would be beside the lower part of the wheelpants in the "gear down" mode and after takeoff, he'd lower the doors and completely cover the exposed tires. The mechanism was an X with the two parts of the X pivoting in the center. One in front of and one behind the tire inside the wheelpants and one side pulled by a cable to the cockpit. He figured that if he ever forgot to "lower" ther gear, he'd just slide in on the closed doors and wear them out landing.:)

Other racers used brush bristle bonded to the inside of the wheelpants that rubbed the tires and kept air from swirling around down there. They also gap sealed all control surfaces in a similar way.

If you're interested in the doors, I'll contact him for you.

Pierre
 
Speaking of Wheel Pants

In a conversation with Sam James he recommended putting in an air dam aft of the tire, shaped the same as the curve of the tire and quite close to it. It would be like a bicycle fender. This is instead of the flat, vertical air dam I have in mine. He said this was a popular idea at air races. Perhaps everyone but me already knew this, but just to be helpful..
 
I Have Thought of That

I have thought of that as well and I have visualized the implementation but one of the design constraints is that what ever I do cannot detract from the appearance of the airplane. I haven't gotten by that yet. This rubber gap closure will be close to door coverage of the tires with less wetted area so I'm going to try it for now. A possible implementation of the door idea would be fairings that are installed for racing only that would move down and close with a flush door on the bottom of the fairing. This would decrease the frontal area as well as the wetted area. We keep thinking. Thanks for the input, it is a good one. I'm intrigued by the mechanisim in your friend's design.

Bob Axsom
 
11-5-07 update

I received a message from Tom Martin about the lower wheel fairing seals tested on his EVO Rocket. He said that although his early testing indicated a speed increase the seals have worn in back of the tires and he certainly is not seeing a positive improvement now.

I have the material and I plant to test the seal on the top of the nose wheel fairing today then procede with the bottom seals and test them. I have another idea that may be better and I think I will try it soon.

The second approach in dealing with the bottom gap is a different approach.

First - The internal volume of the fairings is quite large. If the forward and aft cavities were closed with fiberglass webs the amount of air activity in the fairings would be reduced.

second - If the edge fairing openings behind the tire was a convex curve continuing from the bottom of the web (see above) the raw scooping of air into the fairing would be reduced.

Bob Axsom
 
No Speed Improvement Demonstrated

Test flight this morning using triangular method of USAR handicap proceedure and NTPS spreadsheet calculation yielded 176.1 kts which is 1.7 kts slower than my last test without the top hole seal. However, I believe this is well within the error margin for my test method and conclude that there is no measiurable improvement.

Bob Axsom
 
Hello Bob,

A thought that I had about modifying my wheel pants. I will probably never get around to trying.

Rivet baffle gap seal material so that it blocks off the gap between the wheel and the fairing. The flex in the material should keep any binding from happening and may block off the area.

Kent
 
This is how the upper nose gear strut looked when I first made it with fiberglass laid up over modeling clay right on the plane:
fullfairing.jpg


I was happy with it but as I worked through the more obvious drag items I finally came around to taping the joints. Here is an early tape job on the fairing:

IMG_4665.jpg
The tape is "Gaffers" tape I think it is used in the movie industry but I'm not really sure. What I am sure of is it can be worked to adhere to compound curved surfaces very nicely. That quality doesn't show well in this photo but it is almost a pleasure to work with and it has STRONG adhesive. I have flown several tests with it on all of the landing gear components. It covers and holds up very well in almost every instance (I had a couple of little streamers off of the right main gear on an earlier flight) this one (the cuff at the top of the NLG strut) has NEVER stayed on in high speed flight.

I went to the auto parts store and bought some black RTV stuff in a tube labeled Gasket Maker type 273. I put wax paper around the strut and applied this material to the inside of the forward part of the "cuff"and mounted it with screws to the cowl. I let it cure overnight then removed it and found that it stayed firmly attached to the cuff but it separated fron the wax paper easily, leaving a nice conforming rubber seal. If I did it again I could do better but it obviously conformed to the shape of the strut fairing perfectly. So, I put wax paper around the trailing edge of the strut and did the rear half of the cuff and it worked well too. I tried to add the material to the rear edge of the forward part and the front of the back part thinking I could compress and or trim the build up to seal the gap between the two parts of the cuff. That didn't work at all and I had to cut it off in order to install the cuff fairing parts on the bottom of the cowl around the strut. Still I had the best seal around the strut I ever had and I felt it was time to apply the Gaffer's tape once again and see if there was any effect.

Yesterday the clouds were too low to get to my 6,000 ft density altitude to conduct the test. The tanks were full, The Nav antenna elements were, removed, the NACA inlet vents had their coverplates installed all of the landing gear fairing seams were carefully taped, the subfairings were installed on the wheel fairings and taped. Everything was ready for today's perfect test day - the sky was clear and the surface winds were dead calm. The one thing I do for racing that I forgot was to remove the tiedown rings and cover the holes with the little discs I make from extremely thin adhesive backed Contact shelf paper. I remembered when I was pushing the plane back in the hanger.

I wanted to test a three things (1) would the tape stay on, (2) what speed could I achieve at 2720 RPM and (3) what speed could I achieve at 2630 RPM both at 6,000 ft d. alt. flying a triangular course. I flew the course at maximum RPM (2720) and it sounded prop noise ragged then I pulled back the prop to 2630 and immediately continued around the course again with a softer sounding prop (it seemed less labored and smoother).

(1) The Tape stayed on perfectly!
(2) 360 GPS Track speeds (kts) at 20 second intervals = 186,186,185,186,186;
120 GPS Track Speeds = 191, 190, 191, 191, 191;
240 GPS Track Speeds = 174, 174, 175, 175, 174
Yielding a wind of 9.8 kts from 256.7 degrees and a KTAS of 183.8 kts
(3) (same three) GPS tracks:
360 = 186, 186, 185, 185, 185
120 = 190, 190, 190, 189, 189
240 = 175, 175, 176, 175, 174
Yielding a wind of 8.7 kts from 255.7 degrees and a KTAS of 183.4 kts

I think that solves the tape blowing off problem. I wish I would have thought about the tie down rings before the flight but the conditions were the same for both flights so it had no bearing on the difference between the two RPM speed results.

Bob Axsom
 
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where can I get the tape? does it come in yellow or purple?

one of my next experiments is the tailwheel fairing and taping joints.
 
where can I get the tape? does it come in yellow or purple?

one of my next experiments is the tailwheel fairing and taping joints.

Brian,
I am not sure if the tailwheel fairing did much for me as far as speed goes, but it was a quick easy job to do, and it looks cool !!
 
I understand most are not seeing a measurable gain, but I'm hoping for a cumulative gain when combined with other minor details.
 
Nose wheel and upper mains

These are from Fairings ect with some modification

nosepant.jpg


fairing.jpg


Gary
N715AB RV7A
closing in on 1,000 hours
 
Gary, I had the Fairings, Etc, nosewheel pant done almost identical to yours. Even the shape looks the same...the problem was that mine cracked if the nosewheel turned to either side too much. There just wasn't enough clearance for the wheel to pivot to the stop without the pant touching the gear leg fairing. I trimmed it down, but it's ugly.

I'll redo mine eventually, but wanted to ask how your was holding up after so many hours?
 
Sorry if I messed you guys up

With these detail reports containin photo uploads etc. the system sometimes times out and I have to keep saving to make sure things don't get lost the I have to go back and clean up the mess. I think it is pretty clean now. I heard about it from one of the guys in California - I think Axel but I could be wrong on that. I googled it and found a source. They do have several colors but i'm not sure what they are.

Brian Carroll you have to watch that Gary Wilcox he is very fast and competitive! You will need everything you can get to beat him. I would expect you two guys to lead the pack up there with the RV-8s.

Bob Axsom
 


Bob,
This is what I made to stop the flow of air going down the
nose gear fairing. Am working on a seal around the gear
leg on pic.
If you don't think air is going down the fairing look at your
nose wheel fairing after a hard run and look at the oil and
other stuff on it.
It stopped the flow no numbers though.
I do plug the bottom of the fairing and will work on that.
I do like the idea of putting a fender in the nose gear because
any of the air going in there is slowing us down.
I just have to work on it and figure out how I will do it.
Might just to do it like the mains, with a nice flow out the bottom.:D

5 KNOTS
 
I have a flush rubber seal

I have a custom (homemade) flush rubber seal with an aluminum backing plate in the nose wheel fairing to seal around the strut and the subfairing actually touch the side walls when weight comes off the tires so there isn't much flow there on the blue bird. In an earlier experiment I put in foam bulkheads and fiberglassed them to eliminate as much open volume in the fairings as possible but it slowed the airplane down - go figure that one out! I removed the bulkheads and the speed came back. I was planning to make new fairings shaped like the combination stock fairings and subfairings but the season is coming up to fast to get it done.

Bob Axsom