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I've been lurking a while on this site, and meanwhile have ordered and received an RV8 empennage kit. I decided to start on the vertical stab and have a few questions:

In order for the top VS-412PP upper hinge bracket to lat flat on the spar (radius of the flange was interfering slightly), I had to relieve the edge of the 412 just a little with a file and scotchbrite wheel. Now I have exposed steel. What is the best way to paint/prime this? Should I scuff up the remaining powder coat and then shoot primer and paint over the entire 412? If I don't scuff it up first I'm afraid the paint won't stick to the existing powder coat. I have never painted over powder coat and don't know the proper procedure.

The lower holes of the VS-803PP rear spar are dimpled to accept flush rivets. The VS-808PP spar doubler is countersunk to accept the dimples from the 803. I am new at countersinking. If I countersink the 808 so that a flush rivet factory head is 'even' with the surface of the 808, the dimples from the 803 are too big for the countersinks and the 803 does not lay flat. How much deeper should the countersink be to accept the dimples? Is there an exact amount, or do I just cut the countersinks a little deeper at a time until it all fits and lays flat?

About how many hours will be invested in a quickbuild RV8 kit from start to flying status? The kit seems to be highly prefabricated and I think (maybe naively) that 1,000 hours or so will be about right. I'd appreciate comments from other quickbuild builders.

Thanks

Jim Shannon
RV8 N52VV

 

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Powder Coat, etc.

Powder Coat:
Option 1: Van's sells a small bottle of touch-up paint for the powder coat.

Option 2: You can scuff up the powder coat with a Scotch-brite pad, clean with MEK or Acetone, and then prime/paint over the powder coat. A quick search on this website will give you a range of options for primer and paint combinations.

Countersink and Dimple:
Make a sample/template in scrap aluminum of the dimple. Use another piece of scrap and work with your countersink until you get the depth right and use that as a reference template. I made a template (all in a small circle of aluminum) for #40, #30, size 6 and size 8 dimples and a matching countersink template in some thicker stock. Make it once and keep it in the toolbox. Once you get a good fit you can use the template to dial in your countersink. Trust me, you'll use this a lot.

I'm doing a standard kit so can't help with that one.

Good luck,
Mike

 

[Mike S]

I've been lurking a while on this site, -------
Jim Shannon
RV8 N52VV

Jim, welcome aboard the good ship VAF

Glad you came in from the shadows.