RVG8tor

Well Known Member
OK I know what you are already thinking "a tripod 8" why! I don't want to get into that debate suffice it to day I am building what I am comfortable with and yes sometimes I think I should have gone the other way but hey that can be project #2.

I am trying to fit my step and just can't get the steel to form as flush as I think it should be. The photo shows the gaps I have which seem large in the photo but are only 2/32. Also the line of rivet hole just below the top row bow away from the fuselage, the curve is too acute there and so far I have not been able to make it budge.

So is this close enough or should I keep working at it, and if so any tips? I feel like right now if I rivet it up the skin will pull up tight but then I think there will be some stretching and then this will cause weak areas that may crack. The stop weight is carried by the top row of rivets that go through the longeron and the plastic block bolted to the floor rib.

 
The one I just put on my 8 required Vans "bigger hammer" approach and a heavy duty vice. Took about 22 iterations of the above to get it to fit like a glove.Keep at it:)
 
From the pictures, it looks like the skin section has a smaller radius than the steel step flange. At this point, I would fabricate some doubler material out of .040, .032, whatever, and sandwich the new doubler between the skin and the steel flange. I'm not sure if you had previously match drilled / cleco'd all the rivet holes. If so, then lay the doubler on the outside of the skin and drill through from the inside of the aircraft.

Then cleco the step back into position and check for an acceptable fit. You may have to try different thicknesses of AL to find one that allows for a match of the differing radius.

You may be able to place this new doubler on the "inside" radius of the steel step flange and form / clamp your way around the flange while drilling and cleco-ing as you go.

Just be prepared for several iterations of the above process before you find a thickness that works for you.
 
Whack It!

Ahhhhh yes! The Step! I remember it well.
I use various methods of wood, blocks, a vice and a big hammer and was finally able to get the backing plate to match the curve of the skin.
I took me several days of tweaking, but my father and I finally got it to fit.
It is indeed a bit of a pain to make it look good. Hang in there, keep working with it and you will get the fit that you desire.
 
Looks familiar. I tried everything I could think of to get it to fit perfectly. In the end I used a little bit of "liquid shim" (stiff glass & flox) to fill the remaining gaps. It's going to be covered by the flap fairing anyway.

YMMV,
Paige
 
step

You will never get the steel to pull to the aluminum. The aluminum will pull to the steel. So keep at it. I used two adjustable wrenches and kept working it till i got an acceptable fit. Of course this took about three days. Good Luck