AX-O

AX-O

Well Known Member
- Today I riveted HS609 bars to HS603 rear spars. The plans said to rivet HS609 bars to HS603 spar channels. so now I have the complete rear spar with the bars. Seems every picture I see on the internet has the left side of the HS or the right with a caption saying something like my first big part. However, I have not ever seen the right or left HS with the entire rear spar attached. Only the portion for that particular side. Did I do this wrong?

FP14052006A0002C.jpg


- The callouts for the rear spar looked to be too small. After the rivet was set. I used a rivet gauge on the shop head. The rivet fits snuggly inside the hole on the gauge but the height of the rivet is too short compared to the gauge. Vans instructions say that sometimes they use rivets too short but it should not be a problem. What is the most important measurement the height of the shop head or the width? I hope width because that is what I did.

- The directions say to rivet HS810-1 and HS814-1 to HS702 front spars. Do you rivet the left and right front spars to HS810-1 and 814-1. Same deal with the rear spar. I always see the left side or right side only on pictures. Seems like it would be more of a pain to work with if you rivet the left and right sides.

- The bolts on HS411 center bearing are shown to go from aft to forward on drawing 3. The nut facing the engine. Why are these bolts not the other way around with the nut on the aft side towards the tail? Is it for clearance issues?

FP14052006A0002D.jpg


- How much primmer do I use on the parts? One coat, two or just enough to cover the part? does this look like too much?

FP09052006A0005Y.jpg

FP09052006A0005Z.jpg


I am way new at this please forgive my novice questions.
 
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AX-O said:
- Today I riveted HS609 bars to HS603 rear spars. The plans said to rivet HS609 bars to HS603 spar channels. so now I have the complete rear spar with the bars. Seems every picture I see on the internet has the left side of the HS or the right with a caption saying something like my first big part. However, I have not ever seen the right or left HS with the entire rear spar attached. Only the portion for that particular side. Did I do this wrong?

- The callouts for the rear spar looked to be too small. After the rivet was set. I used a rivet gauge on the shop head. The rivet fits snuggly inside the hole on the gauge but the height of the rivet is too short compared to the gauge. Vans instructions say that sometimes they use rivets too short but it should not be a problem. What is the most important measurement the height of the shop head or the width? I hope width because that is what I did.

- The directions say to rivet HS810-1 and HS814-1 to HS702 front spars. Do you rivet the left and right front spars to HS810-1 and 814-1. Same deal with the rear spar. I always see the left side or right side only on pictures. Seems like it would be more of a pain to work with if you rivet the left and right sides.

- The bolts on HS411 center bearing are shown to go from aft to forward on drawing 3. The nut facing the engine. Why are these bolts not the other way around with the nut on the aft side towards the tail? Is it for clearance issues?

- How much primmer do I use on the parts? One coat, two or just enough to cover the part?

I am way new at this please forgive my novice questions.
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I believe the -7 and -8 are built exactly the same, except the -8 has some slight part differences. Going on this assumption, you match drill everything without the rear spar doublers in place. After match drilling, priming, etc, you assemble the rear spar and put it aside. It is the last piece to go onto the HS...the left and right halves will be attached to each other via the FRONT spar long before they're attached via the rear spar. This requires a couple of blind rivets...that's why the BSPQ-5-4's are called out. Look about 1/2 way down the page and you'll see the before and after:

http://www.ballofshame.com/flying/rv-7/buildLog/20060115.php

re: rivet callouts. Yes, the callouts are too short. I went back and forth between using the next size up (too long...easy to clench over but I was experienced by this time so I didn't worry about it....long story, but I'm on tail II) or I used their callouts and smushed them until they barely passed on width. Vans, and my tech counselor, seemed to be OK with this.

re: 814/810 constuction sequence. Once again, I'm assuming the -8 is like the -7. It IS a bit difficult to manage but unless you do this you would have to shoot and buck the 810/814 doublers to the spars after rivetting on the skin. If you do it before hand, you can squeeze them. If you haven't already learned, especially early on, squeezing is WAY easier than bucking and it would be especially difficult to shoot and buck those rivets with a skin in the way.

look about 3/4 down the page. When you do this, there are a few rivets you leave out for attaching the center ribs and later attaching to the fuselage.

http://www.ballofshame.com/flying/rv-7/buildLog/20051210.php


re: bearing bolts. If you put them the other way, I think it may interfere with the elevator horn. Also, since you turn the nut and not the bolt when torquing (if possible), it's better to have the bolt head with no washer sitting on the steel bearing block, and a washer under the nut sitting on the primed (or bare.....depends on your preference) spar. If you do it the other way, you would need washers under both sides (you wouldn't want the nut to turn and wear off the powder coating).

re: how much primer. Depends on your primer. AKZO requires just a single coat. AFS primer reccomends a couple of very light coats. Tempo Zinc Chromate seems to work well with 2 light coats. This is one of those cases where you really want to follow the manufacturers instructions. This is where a tech counselor can help. Most people (myself included) tend to put it on too thick. It looks like you're using GBP988....tough to tell with that stuff. It goes from light mist coat to completely opaque REAL fast. Make a few marks with a blue sharpie. If you can still see the marks loud a clear after priming, but you don't have any obvious bare metal showing, it's probably just right.
 
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I am using Napa 7220 self etching primer. And yes I can still see my blue sharpie marks.
 
AX-O said:
I am using Napa 7220 self etching primer. And yes I can still see my blue sharpie marks.
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Hey, that works out then. I think the GBP and the Napa are the same product under two different labels. That's the rumor, anyhow :D
 
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